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Indyxc

Budget Build input, especially subwoofer

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Indyxc

Hello all,

I just picked up my 2012 Axis A20.

It appears to have the Sound Pack 1, with Stock Sony Head Unit, but they upgraded the cabin speakers to Polk mm6501um.

So my goals with this are to sound decent. My last boat (MC X2) had a JL 6 channel amp, powering 6 JL cabin speakers, 2 JL tower speakers, and that was PLENTY.

My boat before than had Arc Audio Amps, Wetsound Pro 60s, and 650 cabin speakers. My mistake was not adding a Subwoofer.

So given that, here is what I've piece together so far.

Cabin Speakers:

4 x Polk mm6501um (Peak: 250w x 4ohm, RMS 125w x 4ohm) Should Be ok?

Subwoofer?: No idea, whats a good one that will fit into the Axis below dash cut out?

Amp for Cabin Speakers + Subwoofer:

Precision Power 990.5

70w x 4 ohms, 4 channel, 1 channel 270 watts at 4 ohms.

Would I wire all 4 channels to each speaker, then the amp to the 5th channel?

Tower Speakers:

Wetsounds Icon 8, 150 x 4 ohms RMS (Unless I find used Rev 8/10)

Tower AMP:

Precision Power 600.2 (190w x 4 Ohm RMS)

Questions:

1. Existing Polk interior speakers any good?

2. Suggestions on an AMP to fit the stock AXIS cut out? How big is it? 15 inch?

3. 270 watts for the subwoofer, decently sufficient? (I don't need water vibrating by the hull)

4. How would I wire the 5 channels? 4 to each speaker, + 1 to the subwoofer?

5. General comments on the amps? Seem to be good value and price.

Thanks for the input!

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MLA

1) On any budget friendly build, existing in-boats that are blown are always good. Get better when they go from head-unit power to external power

2) Not sure what a 2012 axis has, thought they were using a 10" in the early days, if not, its a 12 that I know. If you actually have a round hole, sounds like you have a missing woofer. i would measure that cutout and go from there. More important is getting a proper enclosure in there. The Axis helm cavity seems fairly large, so should not be too tough to get a good enclosure in there.

3) Give the 5 chnl amp choice, I would go with a 2 ohm woofer that will allow you to take advantage of the amp's 2 ohm output, which is likely about 500W. Kicker CompS122

4) each speaker to its own chnl.

5) they are a decent price point amp thats on a foundation that shared by 4-5 other labels.

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DOOFUSisaCAT

take a look at jl audio website...they have a discount/discontinued page.....their discontinued stuff is better than most others.

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toddthelineman

I have a ppi 900.5

The sub channel is wired to a sealed 10" Polk audio dual voice coil at 2 ohms, and the other four channels each have a Polk audio dB 6.5

Everyone who's heard it agrees that for the price, it sounds really good. Clear, well balanced and definitely audible at speed. I have no head unit. Just a fusion Bluetooth and a pac 10 line driver which recently got wet and I had to turn my gains up, but it still doesn't sound as good or as loud and there is some hum from the speakers.

Edited by toddthelineman

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David

If you have 270 watts available to the subwoofer then select a woofer with a voice coil diameter between 2.0" and 2.5" maximum. Like the Kicker mentioned above, or a JL Audio W0, W1, or W3, or a Polk dB or M series as examples. You are in a good place with your available power but correctly matching the subwoofer to the amplifier power is important. The woofer with a larger and/or longer voice coil that is intended for more excursion, more power handling, and to accept more abuse, will undoubtedly have a lower internal efficiency and will under-perform with only moderate power.

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Indyxc

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I will definitely go out and measure the hole to give me an understanding of what I can put in there. David- To your point on voice coil diameter, Visually when I looked at the hole before, it had to be 12-15" diameter. Will I be able to find a 2-2.5 voice coil in that amp size?

Second, also, if the speakers run 4 ohms (I've 2.7 place), if the amp is running on the same amp, but a different channel, does it run at it's own ohm level?

Thanks !

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AJWest

I had a JL W3 two boats ago and it was a very nice, clean sub. Earmark made a custom reflex enclosure for it.

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That Guy

Following this thread. Hope it's ok if I ask a question or two.

I have SP1 on my '15 Axis and want to add a paid of tower speakers (likely icon 8's) and an amp to power them this winter. There is a large price difference between the Precision Power 600.2 AMP and whatever Wetsound AMP I need for this....is there any noticeable difference for the sound?

Is it possible to get one AMP to power all the speakers, (in boat and tower), or one to power the tower speakers/sub if I add one?

Total stereo newb and this is my first boat so yeah. TIA

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MLA

That guy,

Yes, there is a difference between a price-point amp thats shared by 4-5 other labels and an in-house designed Wet Sounds amp. Most obviouse being the Wet Sounds is marine built. The SD and HT amps come with end caps to cover the terminations and stand-offs to mount the amp on. More efficient power supply, better designed front end with more accurate POTs.

Yes, but how many in-boats in SP1? An SD-6 would handle some in-boats, a sub and a pair of Icon-8.

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