Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

PROP HELP


Recommended Posts

I recently got a '90 Malibu Sunsetter and I have some questions regarding the propeller.

The prop that it came with is attached with a nylock nut. It does not use the cotter pin arrangement. Is this correct (or at least acceptable), or do I need to use a "castle" nut and a cotter pin?

And if the nylock is OK, what should I torque it to?

Also, I removed the prop to have it serviced and it was stuck on the shaft pretty good. The prop puller i bought got it off OK (with a little help from my friendly hammer...), but if I ever had to replace the prop in the water it would be a chore. Should I put some grease or anti-sieze on the tapered shaft before installing the prop? (the prop is an OJ 13x13 3-blade bronze)

Link to comment

Is there a hole on the threaded portion of the prop shaft? The cotter pin doesn't keep the nut from backing off (that is why it is a ny-loc nut) but it just keeps it from dropping off all together.

I don't know the torq spec, I just make it "snug"... and it is a pres-fit on the prop shaft, so you shouldn't use any lube - that'd put undue stress on the prop key.

Link to comment

Welcome to the site.

My 1990 Bu has the nut with cotter pin. I haven't seen any without. it probably wouldn't hurt to change it to use a cotter pin. But I don't know if it's necessary.

I'm not sure about the torque or aniti-seize.

Link to comment

cbgalt,

The nylock nut is std equipment, and is just fine. There is no need for a cotter pin.

Torque it until tight - No need for a torque setting, I hold the prop with one hand and the wrench in the other, and being careful to not slip you can get it plenty tight enough. The thing to watch is that the prop does not hang up on the key. A good rule of thumb is to slide the prop on the tapered shaft without the key in place. Mark how far the prop goes on. Insert the key and put the prop back on. When tight the prop should go on to your mark on the shaft.

The prop puller is used to apply tension to the prop, which is nice and tight on the tapered propshaft. Hit the back of the prop puller with a good smack from a hard hammer and the shock should pop the prop right off. It sounds like you did this to get it off the first time. This is typical prop removal. If the prop comes right off with puller alone it likely was not seated properly on the shaft - perhaps hung on the key a bit.

I know one guy that has changed his prop under water. I would not reccomend it to anyone. :)

Peter

Link to comment

ps - who is John Galt?

Don't know John Galt. CBGALT is the class I ran my race car in.

Thanks to all for the help!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...