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Dougiefresh60

Fuse/ballast

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Dougiefresh60

My boat is a 2006 vride. My right rear intake ballast pump stoped working. Took out its clean. Circuit breaker never tripped. I've light test and no power in back by pump, power at switch and circuit box. I'm think a fuse blew but I'm new to the boat I need to know we're the fuse box is! If no fuse other suggestions, pls. Thx

Doug

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grandude

Breaker is below the throttle by the drivers right leg.

If you found power at the circuit box, why is there confusion about where the fuse is located? Make sure you are checking for power with the switch in the fill position, check the impeller on the pump and make sure it spins freely. They do freeze up sometimes from sand etc.

Edited by grandude

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Dougiefresh60

Do breakers go bad can they be changed?

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grandude

It's very doubtful that a breaker went bad. IT COULD happen but doubtful. Have you verified that you are not getting voltage at the pump with switch turned to fill?

Have you checked both sides of the butt splice on the power side? I would check voltage on the good pump just to verify your testing procedure with the volt meter. Pumps going bad are not uncommon at all. Breakers, not so much.

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Dougiefresh60

Yes I have done all that. I can run a new wire just don't understand how just stops. I'm using light tester not volt meter, so your thoughts are still replace pum and go from there?

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Dougiefresh60

Yes I have done all that. I can run a new wire just don't understand how just stops. I'm using light tester not volt meter, so your thoughts are still replace pump and go from there?

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Dougiefresh60

Also where do u recommend a good place to buy pumps and parts?

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grandude

No I'm not saying to just replace the pump without proving a few things first. Wires do not usually just go bad. Especially just at some random point between the power source and the appliance. Bilge related (wet environment) items like ballast pumps and bilge pumps sometimes go bad near the appliance at the butt connectors, especially if someone didn't use shrinkable (sealed) connectors. Lots of time you have voltage or ground on the source side of the connector but not on the appliance side. (Repair the connections.) If you really want to find out if the pump is good, pull it out, strip off the ends of the wires and touch it to your battery. Then you can determine where to start to solve your problem. You should have a supply of heat shrink butt splices and some 12 or 14 gauge wire on hand if your doing these projects, sometimes you need just a bit longer wire.

You really should get a multi tester. They aren't very expensive and will save a lot of guessing. using a tester and some alligator clip jumper wires you check continuity on you source power and ground to see if you have an issue.

Have you checked power at the switch? Both switch on and off?

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formulaben

...just don't understand how just stops.

I wondered the same thing...pump looked great. I replaced it then curiosity got the best of me. I cut it open and it was quite apparent why it failed.

122c8l5.jpg

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Dougiefresh60

Thanks guys that was my next step what u explained is my senecio power at ground but not source. But connector is not sealed. I get extra pumps and wire to have on hand for future. I'll try to run up this weekend and fix and let u know how it goes.

Yes power at switch on and off good there. Thanks gents here's to hoping and good surfing!

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