Possible Project Boat

[oldjeep]

You can either use a harmonic balancer puller or arm type puller if you have those or a cheap steering wheel puller.

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Tools-And-Equipment/Steering-Wheel-Puller/_/N-2652

Edited June 7, 2015 by oldjeep

[lundbladc]

So I ordered the wheel puller, lets hope it works :P surprisingly its a tool that my father, who has most tools in triplicate, did not have.

As for the engine cover/motor box does anyone have any photos of how it attaches to the floor via the hinges? The hinges that came with it from Malibu do not rotate the full direction to allow the cover to open fully. In fact it looks like I am missing a some sort of metal cross member that would allow the hinges to mount below the floor in a vertical fashion. Does anyone have any photos to confirm this theory of mine? I will post a photo of the hinge when I get home this evening.

Also the cup holder block for the engine cover... is that mounted to the inside of the engine cover? I could not find any up close images online perhaps you guys could give me some guidance.

Thanks to formulaben, I have the spark arrestor on the way :-D

Got my subwoofer box made, sounds SOOOO much better, more pics to come soon!

[footndale]

As for the engine cover/motor box does anyone have any photos of how it attaches to the floor via the hinges? The hinges that came with it from Malibu do not rotate the full direction to allow the cover to open fully. In fact it looks like I am missing a some sort of metal cross member that would allow the hinges to mount below the floor in a vertical fashion. Does anyone have any photos to confirm this theory of mine? I will post a photo of the hinge when I get home this evening.

There usually is a cross member that it attaches to vertically and then the cross member is screwed in. I don't have picture to show.

Try this article.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/engine-cover-repair-on-2005-rlxi-r30

Edited June 9, 2015 by footndale

[lundbladc]

We decided to go with the Nautique style hinges, mostly due to the fact that it has quick release pins. Also I discovered the floor insert was all messed up, the honeycomb rear piece behind the engine cover, so I made that out of marine plywood. I will attach the engine cover to that. We will still be re-enforcing the Fiberglas motor box a bit prior to the hinge install. Thanks for that link footndale.

New pics:

http://imgur.com/a/p4dLE#66

[lundbladc]

So I brought the boat over to a friend who had a code reader for the engine, The boat currently runs fine at idle but unless you accelerate very slowly it will backfire and usually stall. The codes that the reader got back were

Code 33: Manifold Pressure Sensor

Code 22: Throttle Position Sensor

Electronic spark control control detects continuous knock.

So by buddy states that fixing these sensors will probably fix the acceleration issue. As these are quite critical sensors, the way it was explained to me was that the fuel injection was doing the best it could to keep the engine running even without the sensors so by correcting them it should run much better.

The 3 sensors have arrived I am just waiting to get the boat back from the upholstery shop to install them and hope for the best as I really want the boat to be fully functional for the 4th.

I also have the fuel level sensor that, I hope, will fit into the tank properly and actually tell me how much gas is left :P

Photos of the upholstery/carpet:

http://imgur.com/a/p4dLE#83

[Asmodeus2112]

So I brought the boat over to a friend who had a code reader for the engine, The boat currently runs fine at idle but unless you accelerate very slowly it will backfire and usually stall. The codes that the reader got back were

Code 33: Manifold Pressure Sensor

Code 22: Throttle Position Sensor

Electronic spark control control detects continuous knock.

So by buddy states that fixing these sensors will probably fix the acceleration issue. As these are quite critical sensors, the way it was explained to me was that the fuel injection was doing the best it could to keep the engine running even without the sensors so by correcting them it should run much better.

The 3 sensors have arrived I am just waiting to get the boat back from the upholstery shop to install them and hope for the best as I really want the boat to be fully functional for the 4th.

I also have the fuel level sensor that, I hope, will fit into the tank properly and actually tell me how much gas is left :P

Photos of the upholstery/carpet:

http://imgur.com/a/p4dLE#83

Looks really nice! Great work!

[Michigan boarder]

Looking GREAT!

[lundbladc]

Well it is done

https://imgur.com/a/p4dLE#0

I obviously still have a few things to do but it is mostly done at this stage and I am just slowly doing things as I go and between playing :P

After replacing the 3 engine sensors it runs great, starts easily and idles perfectly. Top end RPM is around 4900 - 5000. Top speed is about 45 MPH (clocked via GPS)

Total into it is $15,784.25 and this includes the toys I got for it.

Barefoot boom

New 2 person Tube

Sound System

Fire Extinguisher

Paddle

Throw-able class IV

It was definitely a lot of work but that satisfaction of it running and getting to spending the weekend with my friends out on the lake for the 4th was well worth it.

Thank you all for your guidance and assistance though-out the whole process.

[85 Barefoot]

nice work! congrats

[jtrovato]

Great job! I love your fuel gauge. Would it have killed you to get the whole finished boat in one picture!? You gotta show that piece of work off, I'd be real proud of what you did to bring that boat back to life, and the cost you did it for.

[lundbladc]

ha ha, I was at the far end of the dock one more step and I would have fallen in :P iPhone camera viewing range is terrible, I will have to use my better camera tonight

[05hammerhead]

Wow. I thought this thread was going to be a total I told you so, but well done sir. Looks awesome. Wish I had the balls to take on a project like this.

[BFresh]

Great work! Love the new vinyl, looks great!

[formulaben]

Great work!

[mkpursehouse]

Looks awesome. Can't believe what you achieved in such a short time. Well done.

[braindamage]

You have done a great job!! Enjoy her for the rest of the season.

[skibumm]

You better christen that boat "Lazarus" Nice job

[lundbladc]

Updated Photos as requested, all in one this time
http://imgur.com/a/p4dLE#108

Some notes:

1. You can really feel the resistance/drag when the wedge is down. and it makes a mean wake lip.
2. The steering is quite stiff, I am thinking I should replace the cable as all things considered, the cable itself is not too expensive (it just looks like a pain in the a** to replace). it feel like I am driving a tank when the wedge is down... Any idea how to easily check if it is in fact the steering cable and not something else, the steering wheel itself spins quite freely when it is disconnected from the cable, I suppose the only way to check is to disconnect the rudder assembly but that requires removing the tank :-/
3. I really want perfect pass lol, holding the correct speed is a pain.

[Intheday]

My 2001 is far harder to turn with the wedge down, steers easily with one hand with wedge up

[Woodski]

@lundbladc: try lubing the cable with some light oil like ATF. Remove the cable at the tiller, hold upright and simply drip some fluid between the sheave and cable. Run the steering back and forth a few time as you go to migrate the fluid up the cable. Good luck, may at least get you by for a while. Yes, Perfect Pass is well worth it.

[Pnwrider]

Wow, nice job! You got that done fast. No way I would've touched it with a 10 foot pole based on the original photos.

[lundbladc]

So there are a few things I am going to take care of before I put it in the water this year, although with the great weather I am having here this week I really want to put it in.

1) I really would like to fix the oil pressure sensor, and I am guessing the oil pressure alarm, I *may have* just removed the alarm from the dash :P
Please let me know if I am correct in my reasoning, the wire with the red cap (blue-white-strip) plugs into the pressure sensor that controls the oil pressure gauge, and the tiny wire to the right (brown-white-stripe) controls the oil pressure alarm in the dash
http://imgur.com/HaeQPHp

2) does anyone know of the proper fuel sending unit for this boat? I would love to actually have it show up properly in the gauge cluster, or perhaps the appropriate ohms so I can test the gauge in the dash. if someone has a full tank or 1/2 tank would it be possible for you to measure the OHM output from your tank's sending unit so I can rig up some resisters to mimic that just to test if the dash gauge works? The speedometer will be replaced by perfect pass, the clock on the right does not work and the depth finder is cracked and does not work.
http://imgur.com/0DGq0t4

3) Anyone ever have this problem, I am thinking I can just glue it, any glue suggestions?
http://imgur.com/fgulzBF

4) I am going to purchase perfect pass

5) anyone ever stain a teak platform, or know of a guide that worked for them from YouTube? I found a few decent ones however I value your opinions

6) I have had a fan blowing on my boat for a few weeks now to try and remove the remaining moisture from the foam by the tracking fins (though the small hole that was there). once it is reasonable well removed I will seal the hole properly with fiberglass and add in a plug so I can look occasionally and see if the moisture content between the two hulls has increased.

I am Looking forward to another great summer!!!

 

 

  

[2014Skier]

Most fuel senders / guages I've seen or read about are a 240 ohm type.  Nice work on the project by the way.

Edited March 12, 2016 by 2014Skier