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My Build Sheet for my Bow Ballast Installation


Cory

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Ahhh I see, I did not see that propsal. That would work nice as well.

Those ball valves are rated for 150 psi. I don't think they would blow out unless you left the pump on a fairly long time.

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Edited by Chrisjjbrown
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The purpose of using these valves has nothing to do with venting. It is so that when theses auxiliary lines are not connected to a bag water does not flow out the line freely if the switch is hit.

I am venting my bags that will always be connected.

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I realize the valve is to avoid water being able to flow if pump is turned on. Like I said, something else will likely blow if that pump is turned on with T handle in off position.

What I will be doing is installing a quick disconnect line under bow gunnel that will plug into the fill line that is vented out the side thru hull with a Y. It will stay connected unless I want to fill bow bag, then I will disconnect it and hook up my remote fill line to bow bag. I might not be doing a good job of explaining it, I will shoot some pics after the install is completed. My system will allow the pump to free flow indefinitely when not hooked into remote fill line.

Therr are many ways to go about this, this just makes the most sense for me.

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"Why not run from the front 3/4" drain plug? To avoid cutting holes??"

Cause I use the front 3/4" drain to drain water out of my boat when it is on our lift all summer long. That is where water pools when my last two boats were on my lift. It doesn't pool back by the transmission and besides there is another drain back there anyway. That little hole, looks, well, little. Where would you put the pump? Seems real tight in there.

Keep bringing the questions... I've been ruminating on this for a long, long time.

About to start this same project myself. Is there any loss of pumping efficiency by placing the pump in the back? I would like to have my front drain plug available for use as well.

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???????? (How do you go from 1" hose to the 1-1/8" Quick-release side of the Elbow connector? - I assume you would need: (Fly High 1" Flow-Rite Quick Release / 1" Hose Barb W748)

Ah, young Padawan. You are not yet wise to the ways of the force. You doubt what you do not yet know...

Actually, I struggled with this issue back in 2013 on my last boat. You NEED a heat gun!!! The 1" tubing will work with 1 1/8" fittings if you have a heat gun to heat up the end of the tubing before sliding it on. The reverse is not true. You cannot use 1 1/8" tubing on 1" barbed fittings. When in doubt, just buy 1" tubing and it will always work, as long as you have a heat gun.

That will be $5 please--no free advice.

God damn it I love paint. Here is my point I'm trying to make in pictures...

brobocopter_zps27aa0753.jpg

Note - it is possible I have completely f***** up what you said somehow in your initial post.

Edited by jonredcorn
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^^^you are close but not quite. The alleged missing piece (read post #2) goes on the extension fill line that connects to the bow bag. The elbow goes on the main line running back to the pump (see element #2 in post #1).

You need to read my post closer. Those vent plugs are for my PNP bags--not the bow bag.

Edited by Cory
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^^^you are close but not quite. The alleged missing piece (read post #2) goes on the extension fill line that connects to the bow bag. The elbow goes on the main line running back to the pump (see element #2 in post #1).

You need to read my post closer. Those vent plugs are for my PNP bags--not the bow bag.

Lol I think you know what you're doing. Just help me with my PNP bags on my 05' VLX this spring... Should I try to piggyback them or just make holes / use reversible pumps?

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I realize the valve is to avoid water being able to flow if pump is turned on. Like I said, something else will likely blow if that pump is turned on with T handle in off position.

What I will be doing is installing a quick disconnect line under bow gunnel that will plug into the fill line that is vented out the side thru hull with a Y. It will stay connected unless I want to fill bow bag, then I will disconnect it and hook up my remote fill line to bow bag. I might not be doing a good job of explaining it, I will shoot some pics after the install is completed. My system will allow the pump to free flow indefinitely when not hooked into remote fill line.

Therr are many ways to go about this, this just makes the most sense for me.

Travis, you may need to put a one way check valve on that vent line. When your fill line is connected to the bow bag, overflow from the hard tank that is sharing the overflow vent port could pour back into the boat thru your Y connector. That plug I'm suggesting could work for that vent line, but the tube will fill with overflow water from the connected hard tank and pour out when you pull the plug to reconnect the fill line. I think a check valve real close to the Y connector would be best. What are you think about this issue?

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Lol I think you know what you're doing. Just help me with my PNP bags on my 05' VLX this spring... Should I try to piggyback them or just make holes / use reversible pumps?

I think wakemakers has a lot of PNP kit solutions for your boat.

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^^^you are close but not quite. The alleged missing piece (read post #2) goes on the extension fill line that connects to the bow bag. The elbow goes on the main line running back to the pump (see element #2 in post #1).

You need to read my post closer. Those vent plugs are for my PNP bags--not the bow bag.

Here is my try 2... The piece in red is not on your order sheet - I just added it because I didn't know how it would work otherwise.

brobocopter2_zps5c7064a8.jpg

Also - are you satisfied with your PNP or is the 20-min fill/drain not so bad once you're used to it?

Edited by jonredcorn
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Travis, you may need to put a one way check valve on that vent line. When your fill line is connected to the bow bag, overflow from the hard tank that is sharing the overflow vent port could pour back into the boat thru your Y connector. That plug I'm suggesting could work for that vent line, but the tube will fill with overflow water from the connected hard tank and pour out when you pull the plug to reconnect the fill line. I think a check valve real close to the Y connector would be best. What are you think about this issue?

I think this would be a problem ONLY if you ever wanted to fill the external ballast bag without filling the hard tank too. In most (all?) instances the hard tank will be full before you fill the external bow ballast, so "topping off" the vent line from the bow tank with a few ounces of water seems like a non issue to me.

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I have been told that with the integrated Johnson pumps you will have Draining issues if you connect to the Ports in the top of the bag vs. the bottom. Is this true or will you be fine not matter what hole on the bag you use to connect to. I ask this because my bow is smaller than most of yours so connecting to a port on the top in the bow would be more ideal than a fitting being pushed into my seat cushions by connecting to one of the bottom ports.

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I have been told that with the integrated Johnson pumps you will have Draining issues if you connect to the Ports in the top of the bag vs. the bottom. Is this true or will you be fine not matter what hole on the bag you use to connect to. I ask this because my bow is smaller than most of yours so connecting to a port on the top in the bow would be more ideal than a fitting being pushed into my seat cushions by connecting to one of the bottom ports.

The bottom ports aren't really on the bottom, more in the "lower back". (assuming you're talking about a fly hi triangle sack). you'll do better connecting to a lower port than an upper port especially on a bag that you don't leave connected full time. You can get away with using a top port on a bag that stays connected and is totally purged of air (though still not preferred because it's better to have the force of the water in the bag pushing back at the pump for draining), but if your pump encounters an air pocket from a top port, which is likely if you take the bag off the fill line regularly, chances are it's going to suck air from time to time. A brand new impeller will suck air OK, but it's not good for it and in any event the pump will suck water way better than air. Eventually with a little impeller wear performance will degrade.

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Travis, you may need to put a one way check valve on that vent line. When your fill line is connected to the bow bag, overflow from the hard tank that is sharing the overflow vent port could pour back into the boat thru your Y connector. That plug I'm suggesting could work for that vent line, but the tube will fill with overflow water from the connected hard tank and pour out when you pull the plug to reconnect the fill line. I think a check valve real close to the Y connector would be best. What are you think about this issue?

Cory, I thought about this, and yes check valve would not hurt. However, if I install the Y fitting so it is positioned above the existing drain line it would be near impossible for water to ever syphon back up into the vent line. I would basically turn the Y so my connection is above the current drain line I am tapping into. Does that make sense? But yes, I definitely could use a check valve but I don't think it will be necessary if the Y is positioned correctly.

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Cory, I am doing the same project on my 14 LSV. I am also adding two reversible pumps for my rear 750's, could not stand the drain time with PNP. Spencer took a great amount of time customizing my set up. In the rear I am using the vent lines from PNP with a check valve. I am using the drain hole next to the tranny as well, this way I only have to drill two holes. I will install both rear pumps next to tranny as you outlined, except I will mount the pump for the bow bag in observers compartment next to the batteries. I was going to buy the "kit" from Spencer but he saved me money by breaking it down and only selling me what I actually needed. We decided no vent on the bow bag.

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Cory, I am doing the same project on my 14 LSV. I am also adding two reversible pumps for my rear 750's, could not stand the drain time with PNP. Spencer took a great amount of time customizing my set up. In the rear I am using the vent lines from PNP with a check valve. I am using the drain hole next to the tranny as well, this way I only have to drill two holes. I will install both rear pumps next to tranny as you outlined, except I will mount the pump for the bow bag in observers compartment next to the batteries. I was going to buy the "kit" from Spencer but he saved me money by breaking it down and only selling me what I actually needed. We decided no vent on the bow bag.

This is same reason I skipped PnP, you just can't beat the Johnson pumps for draining and filling. Your gonna be impressed with those pumps.

Im also not venting bow bag, I believe sumo bag has a quick release bleeder valve on too of bow bag.

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Lol I think you know what you're doing. Just help me with my PNP bags on my 05' VLX this spring... Should I try to piggyback them or just make holes / use reversible pumps?

Im about to start my project...in case you were antsy to help...

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This is same reason I skipped PnP, you just can't beat the Johnson pumps for draining and filling. Your gonna be impressed with those pumps.

Im also not venting bow bag, I believe sumo bag has a quick release bleeder valve on too of bow bag.

yes, but only 650lbs, for $10 more you get the fly high 1000, they should make a threaded burp valve for the flyhigh bags too

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Does anyone see a problem with mounting Johnson Pumps to the floor under the seats as opposed to on the seat base. I ask because it appears my VTX the pumps are too tall to mount in that location as well as in the V Drive ( I want to keep the pizza tray). The manual says you can mount these in any direction. I realize this will take up some storage room but am not overly concerned.

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