My Build Sheet for my Bow Ballast Installation

1,505 · February 4, 2015

So, I'm getting close to ordering my components for my bow ballast installation. After getting a lot of ideas from others on here I've decided to simplify my installation a little from what others have discussed.

1) I'm using the spare 3/4" drain hole next to the v-drive as my in-take. I'll mount the reversible pump on the sidewall below the tray over the tranny. I'll run 1" black hose up the starboard side to the bow cup holder area.

2) I'll mount a flow-rite elbow quick connect on the end of the fill/drain line and angle it to point horizontally towards the center of the bow area.

3) When not in use, I will insert a flow rite plug into the elbow and use the loop on the plug to clip the line onto one of the combing pad studs above the cup holder alcove so the line remains hidden.

4) I will use a flow rite elbow on the top center plug of my bow bag, connected to a 3 or 4ft fill/drain extension line. This line will be clear so I can see water flowing (or not as the case may be).

5) The fill/drain extension line will always remain connected to the bow bag--hence I'm ordering the Ronix bow bag so I can fold the fill/drain extension line into the velcro flap when I roll up the bag and throw it in the locker.

6) I'll mount the switch on the carpet panel next to the drivers right leg and run the power either around the bow or behind the carpet panel in the walk through.

That's it...

Note: there are extra 1 1/8" clamps and vent plugs for my PNP installation and a couple spares of items in the build sheet.

Build Sheet.pdf

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1,505 · February 4, 2015

I'm using the crimp clamps on the fill/drain extension line to avoid sharp edges that could cut my vinyl. All hidden clamps are screw drive type in case I need to replace a component in the future.

I've already got a W748 hose bard fitting, so it's not on my build sheet, but that is also a necessary part for the extension line.

Edited February 4, 2015 by Cory

13,105 · February 4, 2015

for the cost differential between tinned marine wire vs the premium install kit and between the e-bay johnson pump and the exact same "premium" pump from wakemakers, you could buy a nice set of crimpers and the deutsch connectors.... then you could install all of your stuff like a pro...

(I like your list and it will all go together nicely. I really prefer those crimp bands too).

Edited February 4, 2015 by shawndoggy

1,505 · February 4, 2015

for the cost differential between tinned marine wire vs the premium install kit and between the e-bay johnson pump and the exact same "premium" pump from wakemakers, you could buy a nice set of crimpers and the deutsch connectors.... then you could install all of your stuff like a pro...
(I like your list and it will all go together nicely. I really prefer those crimp bands too).

I hear ya. I guess I see the benefit of the wakemakers kit as a bit of a time saver on the installation. I'm already saving a lot of money by doing it myself, but you are correct I could save a little more money by sourcing some of the parts elsewhere. I may end up cutting the wires and splicing them to get exact lengths. I do like having deutsch connectors at the pump, switch, and battery in case I need to replace a component in the future.

Edited February 4, 2015 by Cory

13,105 · February 4, 2015

yeah the deutsch connectors are VERY nice. I was just making the point that they aren't that hard to crimp the pins on and with the savings you could buy the deutsch style crimpers and have money left to do connectors on other accessories too (EQ?).

1,505 · February 5, 2015

^^^ I really don't want an EQ with the new helm. The only way I am going to consider a ZLD is if I have noise issues with the factory stereo again. I'm holding off purchasing the stereo equipment (other than the sub) until I get my ears on the factory stereo and have a listen to the noise floor.

Ok Shawn, I didn't get your more nuanced comment until now.

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1 Boat · February 5, 2015

So, I'm getting close to ordering my components for my bow ballast installation. After getting a lot of ideas from others on here I've decided to simplify my installation a little from what others have discussed.
1) I'm using the spare 3/4" drain hole next to the v-drive as my in-take. I'll mount the reversible pump on the sidewall below the tray over the tranny. I'll run 1" black hose up the starboard side to the bow cup holder area.
2) I'll mount a flow-rite elbow quick connect on the end of the fill/drain line and angle it to point horizontally towards the center of the bow area.
3) When not in use, I will insert a flow rite plug into the elbow and use the loop on the plug to clip the line onto one of the combing pad studs above the cup holder alcove so the line remains hidden.
4) I will use a flow rite elbow on the top center plug of my bow bag, connected to a 3 or 4ft fill/drain extension line. This line will be clear so I can see water flowing (or not as the case may be).
5) The fill/drain extension line will always remain connected to the bow bag--hence I'm ordering the Ronix bow bag so I can fold the fill/drain extension line into the velcro flap when I roll up the bag and throw it in the locker.
6) I'll mount the switch on the carpet panel next to the drivers right leg and run the power either around the bow or behind the carpet panel in the walk through.
That's it...
Note: there are extra clamps and vent plugs for my PNP installation.

This doesn't look right... I'm going to update this and explain...

Edit:

Personal opinions: running water by the port-side dash and electronics which scares the s*** out of me unless its under the floor

The PVC Ballast hose cutter probably isn't worth it if you have a tin-snips. It isn't that hard to cut - just rubber with a thin metal reinforcement.

Why not run from the front 3/4" drain plug? To avoid cutting holes??

Why the hell does Wakemakers have 1" / 1-1/8" barbed quick elbows but not all 1"?? Why are all the quick-connect male-ends always 1" except for the male/male quick connect nipple, which is 1-1/8"?? I'm confused on this sizing.

To answer your question:

What I'm imagining:

From the 3/4" drain plug to the bag I imagine you are saying... (in order)

Drain Plug 3/4"

3/4" nipple fitting (bronze)

3/4" bronze valve

3/4" thread -> 1" barb connector (pvc)

1" black hose

Pump

1" black hose

???????? (How do you go from 1" hose to the 1-1/8" Quick-release side of the Elbow connector? - I assume you would need: (Fly High 1" Flow-Rite Quick Release / 1" Hose Barb W748)

(optional while plugged) 1-1/8" Fitting plug

1" barbed 1-1/8" Quick Release elbow

1" Clear Hose

1" barbed 1-1/8" Quick Release elbow

1" NTP thread to 1" quick connector adapter Bag Fitting

Correct me if I'm wrong...??

Edited February 5, 2015 by jonredcorn

4,586 · February 5, 2015

Cory, what is the plug for? To prevent water coming out fill line if pump is accidentally turn on?

1 Boat · February 5, 2015

Cory, what is the plug for? To prevent water coming out fill line if pump is accidentally turn on?

I assumed the opposite - to keep water from spilling when he wasn't using the fill/drain hose.

4,586 · February 5, 2015

The amount of water coming out after pump is shut off and disconnected will be very minimal. I would be more concerned about a pump being turned on with open connection blowing water in bow.

After looking at the fitting I believe it's a multi use, plug the line and use as a hanger to stow hose away. I do question what would happen to a plug fitting like this if the pump was turned on, would it blow it off or be able to hold back water? Those impeller pumps are very powerful.

1,505 · February 5, 2015

The amount of water coming out after pump is shut off and disconnected will be very minimal. I would be more concerned about a pump being turned on with open connection blowing water in bow.
After looking at the fitting I believe it's a multi use, plug the line and use as a hanger to stow hose away. I do question what would happen to a plug fitting like this if the pump was turned on, would it blow it off or be able to hold back water? Those impeller pumps are very powerful.

Guess I'll need to do a test once I get on the lake with this setup. If the plug can't hold back the water, then I may need to think of an alternative. But, this seems like the cleanest setup I can think of.

1,505 · February 5, 2015

"Personal opinions: running water by the port-side dash and electronics which scares the s*** out of me unless its under the floor"

There are no connections near dash electronics with my setup--just a solid run of 1" high quality ballast lines. There is no failure point around the pricey electronics--only the bow speaker, which isn't worth much.

1,505 · February 5, 2015

???????? (How do you go from 1" hose to the 1-1/8" Quick-release side of the Elbow connector? - I assume you would need: (Fly High 1" Flow-Rite Quick Release / 1" Hose Barb W748)

Ah, young Padawan. You are not yet wise to the ways of the force. You doubt what you do not yet know...

Actually, I struggled with this issue back in 2013 on my last boat. You NEED a heat gun!!! The 1" tubing will work with 1 1/8" fittings if you have a heat gun to heat up the end of the tubing before sliding it on. The reverse is not true. You cannot use 1 1/8" tubing on 1" barbed fittings. When in doubt, just buy 1" tubing and it will always work, as long as you have a heat gun.

That will be $5 please--no free advice.

1,505 · February 5, 2015

The amount of water coming out after pump is shut off and disconnected will be very minimal. I would be more concerned about a pump being turned on with open connection blowing water in bow.
After looking at the fitting I believe it's a multi use, plug the line and use as a hanger to stow hose away. I do question what would happen to a plug fitting like this if the pump was turned on, would it blow it off or be able to hold back water? Those impeller pumps are very powerful.

When you look at the plug fitting, it has two o-rings instead of just one. This is better than when the line is connected to the bag. If the connection holds when attempting to overfill a ballast sack (which I have no idea, since I've never used reversible pumps before), my money is on this plug holding true.

13,105 · February 5, 2015

When you look at the plug fitting, it has two o-rings instead of just one. This is better than when the line is connected to the bag. If the connection holds when attempting to overfill a ballast sack (which I have no idea, since I've never used reversible pumps before), my money is on this plug holding true.

The likelihood of the connection holding is directly proportional to your spouse driving and you having the handle in your hand. Ask me how I know!

(reversible will definitely blow a fitting off of an unvented bag, in my case though it blew out at the threads in the bag)

It will definitely put a stress test on any weak spots in your system.

Edited February 5, 2015 by shawndoggy

1,505 · February 5, 2015

"Why not run from the front 3/4" drain plug? To avoid cutting holes??"

Cause I use the front 3/4" drain to drain water out of my boat when it is on our lift all summer long. That is where water pools when my last two boats were on my lift. It doesn't pool back by the transmission and besides there is another drain back there anyway. That little hole, looks, well, little. Where would you put the pump? Seems real tight in there.

Keep bringing the questions... I've been ruminating on this for a long, long time.

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1,505 · February 5, 2015

The likelihood of the connection holding is directly proportional to your spouse driving and you having the handle in your hand. Ask me how I know!
(reversible will definitely blow a fitting off of an unvented bag, in my case though it blew out at the threads in the bag)
It will definitely put a stress test on any weak spots in your system.

Ok, well then a stress test will be in order.

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1,505 · February 5, 2015

The likelihood of the connection holding is directly proportional to your spouse driving and you having the handle in your hand. Ask me how I know!
(reversible will definitely blow a fitting off of an unvented bag, in my case though it blew out at the threads in the bag)
It will definitely put a stress test on any weak spots in your system.

Does anyone vent a bow bag? I guess this is another reason to go with the Ronix bow bag. You will get a pop up warning (bing!) right in front of the drivers eyes that not even my wife would miss--she sure didn't miss that submerged stump last summer. Of course, if she is looking backwards watching my mad skills...

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1,382 · February 5, 2015

Guess I'll need to do a test once I get on the lake with this setup. If the plug can't hold back the water, then I may need to think of an alternative. But, this seems like the cleanest setup I can think of.

Cory.

I am doing a very similar set up to yours for the bow except I am Y ing the line and having a line for the cabin as well. What I am doing instead of a cap is I am putting a ball valve in each of the lines after the y so that I can turn one or both off when not in use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1,505 · February 5, 2015

Cory.
I am doing a very similar set up to yours for the bow except I am Y ing the line and having a line for the cabin as well. What I am doing instead of a cap is I am putting a ball valve in each of the lines after the y so that I can turn one or both off when not in use.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My initial thought was to put one of these valves near the end where I connect the fill/drain extension line. If the plug doesn't hold, then that may be my backup plan. I just think the plug is the cleanest solution and solves two issues at once. That assumes the plug works. I think it will.

Edited February 5, 2015 by Cory

1,382 · February 5, 2015

^^^That's exactly what I am Using. I wanted to be able to close one line or both and the directional y valve didn't have and all off. So I am using two of these.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4,586 · February 5, 2015

Like Shawn mentioned, even if you use that T valve and it's turn off, the next weakest link in your system will more than likely blow. This is why I am using a vented line out the side thru hull, no resistance for water, it can flow all day.

I have used Johnson pumps for the past four years, I never have had one accidentally turned on or a switch malfunction. Chances are it probably will never happen, I just do not want to chance it in the rare case it ever happened.

1,382 · February 5, 2015

Like Shawn mentioned, even if you use that T valve and it's turn off, the next weakest link in your system will more than likely blow. This is why I am using a vented line out the side thru hull, no resistance for water, it can flow all day.
I have used Johnson pumps for the past four years, I never have had one accidentally turned on or a switch malfunction. Chances are it probably will never happen, I just do not want to chance it in the rare case it ever happened.

The purpose of using these valves has nothing to do with venting. It is so that when theses auxiliary lines are not connected to a bag water does not flow out the line freely if the switch is hit.

I am venting my bags that will always be connected.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited February 5, 2015 by Chrisjjbrown

1,505 · February 5, 2015

Like Shawn mentioned, even if you use that T valve and it's turn off, the next weakest link in your system will more than likely blow. This is why I am using a vented line out the side thru hull, no resistance for water, it can flow all day.
I have used Johnson pumps for the past four years, I never have had one accidentally turned on or a switch malfunction. Chances are it probably will never happen, I just do not want to chance it in the rare case it ever happened.

Very true. The next weakest link will be the barbed connections or the plug (at least in my setup). There is one barbed connection at the bow and three back near the v-drive unit. I guess I would be surprised if the pumps could blow those connections. I do like your idea of using the Y-connector valve with the off position diverting to overflow. I'm just not convinced those extra steps are necessary. Hmmm... Food for thought. I think I will plumb my way first, then perform the stress test. If there is a failure, then I'll revert to your overflow method. Now that I think about it, I'm not convinced the ball valve is much of a safety improvement over the plug.

1,505 · February 5, 2015

The purpose of using these valves has nothing to do with venting. It is so that when theses auxiliary lines are not connected to a bag water does not flow out the line freely if the switch is hit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chris, I don't think you understand Fman's proposal. In his setup, "off" would divert water to an overflow if someone accidentally hit the switch with no bag connected.

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My Build Sheet for my Bow Ballast Installation

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