Teak platform refurb ?'s

[jrvs23]

Yes, I have searched the forum and have come up with my base plan. My platform is almost completely grey and needs a full refurb. I know many of you have done this either by full disassembly or just surface refurb.

My plan:

-disassemble

-clean

-sand

-clean

-seal (starbrite teak sealer)

-reassemble

My questions:

1.While disassembling a couple of pieces were still being firmly held by the OEM glue. Should I pry them apart? I would like to sand and seal all surfaces of the wood but don't want to damage it by ripping it apart.

2. Should I even bother trying to re-glue the pieces that were glued from the factory came right apart when the screws were removed.

3. Just to open a can of worms I'm thinking a sealer over the oil. Any pro's/con's to either or personal preferences? I really don't want a surface that will be more slippery than should be expected with kids being kids.

Thanks

Photos will be coming for a project post.

[Cap305]

Now it's up to you on whether you want to fully take it apart or not but when I refurbished mine I just sanded the top and sides. Came out looking great with teak oil but it was definitely slippery. I didn't notice any issues with a simple sand and oil. Two years later and it still looks presentable but not show quality. You could always just test the area that faces the transom by sanding and oiling/sealing to see if you really need to fully disassemble the whole platform. Just my $.02.

[Brian Young]

Power wash, and then sand always worked well when I had teak. Taking it apart sounds like a pain.

[toddj]

I'm a fan of the Sealer over oil. Lasts longer and looks richer. I switched to sealer this year. I took everything off this year and had by brackets powdercoated black. Didn't have any glue, but mine ride is 20+yrs old now.

I used Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer

here's a few write ups if you're interested. :

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/41494-how-do-you-cleanrefinish-your-teak-ski-platform/page-2

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29006-sanding-and-restoring-a-13-year-old-teak-platform/

[Bill_AirJunky]

My plan:

-disassemble

-clean

-sand

-clean

-reassemble

-LINEX!

[jrvs23]

Really don't think I could cover teak with plastic and rubber. Not my style. My main questions were about the need to re glue or not? I have already taken it apart accept for one piece the is still held firmly by the original glue.

[justgary]

No reason to force it. You'll just make more trouble for yourself if you split the wood.

[tdelandsheer]

I did this exact same thing 2 years a go to my platform. If you have the time and can do it indoors it is an extremely satisfying winter project.

When I took mine a part nothing needed to be pried, it basically fell a part as I took screws out. I then power washed and sanded. I did glue using gorilla glue to reassemble. Just remember that gorilla glue expands and if it gets on any surface you see you will be sanding it off later. For my final step I used starbrite.

It has been two full summers and I am still very happy with my project! Remember to take your time and it will turn out great.

Edited January 5, 2015 by tdelandsheer

[Oberon]

Yes, I have searched the forum and have come up with my base plan. My platform is almost completely grey and needs a full refurb. I know many of you have done this either by full disassembly or just surface refurb.

My plan:

-disassemble

-clean

-sand

-clean

-seal (starbrite teak sealer)

-reassemble

My questions:

1.While disassembling a couple of pieces were still being firmly held by the OEM glue. Should I pry them apart? I would like to sand and seal all surfaces of the wood but don't want to damage it by ripping it apart.

2. Should I even bother trying to re-glue the pieces that were glued from the factory came right apart when the screws were removed.

3. Just to open a can of worms I'm thinking a sealer over the oil. Any pro's/con's to either or personal preferences? I really don't want a surface that will be more slippery than should be expected with kids being kids.

Thanks

Photos will be coming for a project post.

1. Try to get them apart but if they are stubborn don't force them. The glue holding is what you want.

2. Absolutely glue them back together. It will add to the structural integrity.

3. A sealer will last longer than oil. It's really a matter of preference. If you are concerned about a slippery surface consider Starbrite Teak Cleaner and Brightener instead of sanding. Sanding does a few things; 1) it makes the teak look new, 2) it closes the pores of the wood which inhibits oil transfer into and out of the wood, and 3) it makes the wood slippery. In my opinion two of the three things I mentioned are bad and a case could be made that all three are bad if you are into "patina" which I am. Skipping the sanding step leaves raised grain which gives the platform traction. I did this when I restored my platform and don't regret it.

I posted my process when I did mine but can't seem to find the post...

[Levi900RR]

Personally I wouldn't bother pulling it apart. Fold a piece of paper in half to get in the cracks.

Here is my refurb. As you can see mine was a mess when I started.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/46679-if-youve-got-teak-read-this/

[Woodski]

Watco Teak oil works very well (although it can leave a slight film if not left to dry completely):

http://www.lowes.com/pd_261440-90-242232_0__?productId=3457886

[jrvs23]

1. Try to get them apart but if they are stubborn don't force them. The glue holding is what you want.

2. Absolutely glue them back together. It will add to the structural integrity.

3. A sealer will last longer than oil. It's really a matter of preference. If you are concerned about a slippery surface consider Starbrite Teak Cleaner and Brightener instead of sanding. Sanding does a few things; 1) it makes the teak look new, 2) it closes the pores of the wood which inhibits oil transfer into and out of the wood, and 3) it makes the wood slippery. In my opinion two of the three things I mentioned are bad and a case could be made that all three are bad if you are into "patina" which I am. Skipping the sanding step leaves raised grain which gives the platform traction. I did this when I restored my platform and don't regret it.

I posted my process when I did mine but can't seem to find the post...

This makes sense to me and it could save a bit of time sanding.

Anyone have recommendations on a marine quality glue?

[blk93jeepzj]

If you sand it, use coarse grit, no higher than 60. It gets slippery quick if you go any higher. I now use use a stiff wire brush when I use the Starbright cleaner and brightener that seems to work as well as anything else before I oil the platform.

Edited January 6, 2015 by blk93jeepzj

[smooth as glass]

Taking apart is asking for trouble....splitting etc. Go with whats worked for others, sand wirebrush seal with teak guard.

[chris4x4gill2]

You do not want to sand teak. It will 1) make it slippery, and 2) it closes the pores of the wood.

Use some copper wool or a copper bristled brush. You can use steel wool but its a little aggressive. The brush will help open the pores in the wood and it will accept more of the teak oil.

No Reason to dissasemble IMO, jsut clean the cracks good with the brush and a rag will get the oil in there. Apply a good coat of oil, sit it in the sun and let it dry. Repeat x however many coats gets you the desired color. I usually did 3 to start the year and then would touch it up as needed, maybe once durign the summer.

No sealer - again, teak needs to breath.

[Michigan boarder]

You do not want to sand teak. It will 1) make it slippery, and 2) it closes the pores of the wood.

Use some copper wool or a copper bristled brush. You can use steel wool but its a little aggressive. The brush will help open the pores in the wood and it will accept more of the teak oil.

No Reason to dissasemble IMO, jsut clean the cracks good with the brush and a rag will get the oil in there. Apply a good coat of oil, sit it in the sun and let it dry. Repeat x however many coats gets you the desired color. I usually did 3 to start the year and then would touch it up as needed, maybe once durign the summer.

No sealer - again, teak needs to breath.

What happens if it doesn't breathe?

[Oberon]

What happens if it doesn't breathe?

It suffocates and dies...

...or maybe it doesn't absorb/excrete oil well leading to unprotected wood which requires more oil applications or if left untreated leads to mold, rot, and ultimately failure.

[Oberon]

This makes sense to me and it could save a bit of time sanding.

Anyone have recommendations on a marine quality glue?

I used Titebond III (green label). It seems to have worked well.

[formulaben]

For those saying sanding makes it slippery, you're using too fine of paper. Use 60 grit and wet sand. Looks great, and plenty of grip.

[Oberon]

Here is a link to my teak rehab thread. There are a few before and after pictures for reference to my way of doing it. It's held up well over the years, though at the moment it needs a coat or two to freshen it up.

[Woodshed]

X2 with Formulaben. I sand mine with 60 and oil. Looks fantastic and is not slippery. First time I did mine I went to a fine grit and people were crashing on it!

I believe sealing it would do exactly the same thing and be slippery.

Oil is supposed to penetrate wood, not sit on top as a film.

Woodshed

Edited January 23, 2015 by Woodshed

[WakingMeHappy]

I put my platform on a workbench and went crazy with a sander and then only use teak oil. Now I do a light sanding every spring, put it in the attic for winter and keep it covered (Evo) year round. I think I took this pic 6 years ago and it still looks this good.

[jrvs23]

Things are moving along pretty good now that the weather is warming up and I can do this outside. I'm almost ready to add the sealer. My question is about the black grain on this one board. It is deep, the black areas are recessed and sanding would require removing around an 1/8th of a inch of material. Not what I want to really do. Starbrite sells a "magic scrubber" which looks like steel wool basically. Will it work? I tried steel wool on a small spot which didn't do anything. Worry about it, or seal it and be happy? It's going to look much better than before.

[skibumm]

No need to pull it apart as other have said you can sand and clean. After 20 years of teak I found the best thing to keep it up is a 80/20 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits.