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Rockford-Fosgate, Polk Audio, JL Audio, Exile Audio - And so the install begins


nemalibu

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A3CB0B12-F224-4B0B-ACB6-8E502603990D_zpsNope, this was just made 2 days ago. 1.2 cu.ft. for my Exile 12" in my 2012 VLX with heater.

Very nice. I am being stubborn and keeping the kick plate in the original place and at the original angle. It is making the box more complicated but I am hoping I will be happier in the end - only time will tell. In any case, working on the boat when I can't be out on her is therapeutic for me.

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Very nice. I am being stubborn and keeping the kick plate in the original place and at the original angle. It is making the box more complicated but I am hoping I will be happier in the end - only time will tell. In any case, working on the boat when I can't be out on her is therapeutic for me.

My kick plate will be in the original position at the floor but stood up straight instead of tilted toward front of boat as in stock position.

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It depends. I wouldn't use any material for a larger sub enclosure unless it was 0.625" thick or thicker. Maybe only 0.50" dense fiberglass mat.

With 0.50" thick polymers you would need a LOT of internal bracing structure. 0.375" is just too thin in any case.

The other property worth considering is how acoustically live or inert it is.

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It depends. I wouldn't use any material for a larger sub enclosure unless it was 0.625" thick or thicker. Maybe only 0.50" dense fiberglass mat.

With 0.50" thick polymers you would need a LOT of internal bracing structure. 0.375" is just too thin in any case.

The other property worth considering is how acoustically live or inert it is.

This would be .750" thick material. It shows larger thicknesses on right side of stat sheet.

Edited by dalt1
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I would avoid the finger joints on any surface joints that aren't right angles. I'd limit your joint types to dado joints or rabbit joints on right angles. The rest just use a butt joint, glue, clamps, and finish nails. A clean cut, well clamped glue joint is not joining to fail.

Edited by Cory
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We call my dad "mister overkill" and I think you have him beat! I like it! I wouldn't do it. Too lazy and have had good luck with regular joints and glue, but enjoying the pics! Keep em coming.

Edited by ajeep4u
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Now it is glued and screwed (with around 100 screws) and I cut a 5" hole near where the sub driver will go so that I could reach inside and caulk the bottom (it went on last).

Next I will be paining it with truck bed liner.

ce468f96b8e1c30ac33d1031c4ee6953.jpg

6bdd20abe940e0884a558e90944b0633.jpg

ee4e7c659babc11f138c2e77f3c03a33.jpg

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ahopkins22LSV

Pretty impressive box. How did you make sure that the joints that are not 90 degree seal well? Maybe it's just my head but I don't seem to understand how the joint could seal well being on a slight angle.

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First it is worth noting that this was designed in 3D with SolidWorks. Possibly the only way to get it right the first time.

For the non 90 degree joints, cut one side of the joint a bit deep to take up the extra needed. Then sand off the protruding fingers after the box is together.

For the entire box, apply glue to all joints during assembly and then put a bead of silicone along the inside edge before putting the bottom on. Then I cut a 5" hole near where the driver will go so that I could reach inside and put down a bead along the bottom seems.

Then for complete overkill, I applied truck bed liner coating to the outside of the box (the box is not yet coated in the pictures I have shown).

Edited by nemalibu
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Now it is glued and screwed (with around 100 screws) and I cut a 5" hole near where the sub driver will go so that I could reach inside and caulk the bottom (it went on last).

Next I will be paining it with truck bed liner.

ce468f96b8e1c30ac33d1031c4ee6953.jpg

6bdd20abe940e0884a558e90944b0633.jpg

ee4e7c659babc11f138c2e77f3c03a33.jpg

A single male/female tab on each side would have been plenty to aid in assembly - I applaud your effort! Sure does look cool.

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I'm curious how you got the CAD design to wood? Did you print out templates and trace onto the wood? I assume you have a jig for your router to accomplish those finger joints, but lining everything up just right (without at least a paper template) would still be tricky.

Or, do you have access to fancy industrial machinery where you feed in the plywood and out comes all the pieces pre-cut according to the CAD design?

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I was wondering why those edges were black. This guy must have access to equipment I could only dream about.

I often dream about having Superman's laser vision eyes--usually when I'm topping the trees in my backyard. Sure would be nice just to look at the branch I want gone. I suppose laser vision would take visualizing your goal in the wood medium to a new level.

Edited by Cory
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