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REV 10's and G4


Wake23LSV

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So IXFE are you saying you'd want to run each pair of speakers off of its own amp (for illustration, say, a left amp and a right amp)?

Then you'd want to run the speakers in series, presumably bridged to a two channel amp. If you have two four channel amps that you plan to bridge to two channels and then run power to the tower this won't work (i.e. you cannot take four channel amp down to a single +/- speaker wire).

Here's the image I did for fman when he had this question....

bridgedtowers_zps0ab4b5e0.png

In that picture, the 2nd amp (the upper one) has presumably the same wiring configuration as the lower one, only it's to the other pair of speakers (on the other side of the tower). Correct?

In other words, this should be possible with factory wire, assuming the G4 is wired the same as the G3 (one run to each side).

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In that picture, the 2nd amp (the upper one) has presumably the same wiring configuration as the lower one, only it's to the other pair of speakers (on the other side of the tower). Correct?

In other words, this should be possible with factory wire, assuming the G4 is wired the same as the G3 (one run to each side).

That illustration is a great way to bridge a pair of 4 ohm speakers when running that 2nd 2-con is not feasible. It can be a different scenario to running 2 pair of speakers with 2 amps.

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That illustration is a great way to bridge a pair of 4 ohm speakers when running that 2nd 2-con is not feasible. It can be a different scenario to running 2 pair of speakers with 2 amps.

Why would the scenario be different? if 1 amp and 2 speakers works on one conductor, why is 2 amps and 4 speakers on two conductors any different?

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Why would the scenario be different? if 1 amp and 2 speakers works on one conductor, why is 2 amps and 4 speakers on two conductors any different?

The tower may have all the cabling thats needed, so doing a series/bridge configuration is not needed. Or theres plenty of room to run those needed additional 2-cons, so doing a series/bridge is not needed.

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The tower may have all the cabling thats needed, so doing a series/bridge configuration is not needed. Or theres plenty of room to run those needed additional 2-cons, so doing a series/bridge is not needed.

I guess I'll have to figure out just how the G4 is wired, which I will do when I finally take delivery of my boat. Need work to quiet down. Ugh
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My gut is the left two tower speakers will be in parallel and the right two tower speakers will be in parallel. This presents 2 ohm loads for each of the left and right channels. The XM30.2 would provide 420 Watts per side (210 per speaker) at 2 ohms. Your Rev8's are rated at 200W RMS and 400W Peak.

Isn't 210W per speaker sufficient?

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Cory,

The answer to your question is a little yes and little no.

The Wetsounds Rev8 200 watt rating is a pure thermal power handling rating which is reasonable for an 8-inch with a larger voice coil.

However, that speaker power spec is singular and does not account for all the variations in amplifier performance under different conditions.

An unregulated amplifier from any/all brands will lose output power as the supply voltage is reduced. Ratings are taken at one frequency, 1 kHz, and with a 14.4 volt supply. But you cannot produce 14.4 volts on a boat. With the engine running you will produce in the mid 13 Vs without a load, and any load causes the voltage to sag. When at rest with a supply voltage of no more than 12.7 volts you can expect a 25% drop in output power. And the output power will drop as you further decrease the supply voltage. You can also expect an additional loss of power when applied to the entire audio bandwidth.

So some of us will automatically make that adjustment and recommend the actual power that we know a particular speaker performs at an optimum level with. If you stay away from clipping you'll never use all that continuous power but since music is so very dynamic you will definitely benefit from all the extra headroom.

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So IXFE are you saying you'd want to run each pair of speakers off of its own amp (for illustration, say, a left amp and a right amp)?

Then you'd want to run the speakers in series, presumably bridged to a two channel amp. If you have two four channel amps that you plan to bridge to two channels and then run power to the tower this won't work (i.e. you cannot take four channel amp down to a single +/- speaker wire).

Here's the image I did for fman when he had this question....

bridgedtowers_zps0ab4b5e0.png

My first choice will be to run two separate 14 gauge wires on each side of the tower, each speaker will have its own speaker wire. It might not be any different than above diagram but for some reason I feel having each speaker with its own speaker wire would be a better option.

If running extra speaker wire on each side of tower is a complete nightmare then I will go with above diagram Shawn gave me. After looking at tower last night it does not appear it will be too crazy, I guess I will find out soon.

Edited by Fman
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In this case with two 2-channel amplifiers and four speakers, four 12-gauge conductors in a bridged/series configuration or eight 14-gauge conductors in a straight stereo configuration will produce the exact same results. Not similar....but exactly the same in every respect. So you are covered either way.

Something to consider is that with the Wetsounds SD2 2-channel you get the same 300 watts of power per each of four speakers (1200 watts total) in a single chassis at the same basic cost. Just makes for a simple installation without dividing up the preamp voltage, without the 'Y' adapters, or needing the extra tower wires.

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Yeah I meant parallel. I always run 4 ohm to previous towers. So, I'll need to run 2 pair of speaker wires up the port side of the tower. From the pictures if seen of the tower apart the tower should take it. The stock loom is braided nylon, so I'm not sure if they will fit inside the stock loom. You may have to tie wrap them. I'm waiting to find out if I can share the photos.

Edited by HB Boater
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Yeah I meant parallel. I always run 4 ohm to previous towers. So, I'll need to run 2 pair of speaker wires up the port side of the tower. From the pictures if seen of the tower apart the tower should take it. The stock loom is braided nylon, so I'm not sure if they will fit inside the stock loom. You may have to tie wrap them. I'm waiting to find out if I can share the photos.

Why wouldn't you able to share the photos? This isn't top secret stuff anymore. That tower is out in the wild.

It sure would be nice to see pics so I know if cracking my new tower open is necessary.

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Yeah I meant parallel. I always run 4 ohm to previous towers. So, I'll need to run 2 pair of speaker wires up the port side of the tower. From the pictures if seen of the tower apart the tower should take it. The stock loom is braided nylon, so I'm not sure if they will fit inside the stock loom. You may have to tie wrap them. I'm waiting to find out if I can share the photos.

Why wouldn't you able to share the photos? This isn't top secret stuff anymore. That tower is out in the wild.

It sure would be nice to see pics so I know if cracking my new tower open is necessary.

The wait is over... I cracked open my G4 tonight. I had to remove 4 individual panels held on by no less than 50 hex bolts and red thread lock. I didn't appreciate how robust this tower was until I saw the guts first hand. It's no joke!

20150218_204645_zpswwcidtpd.jpg

20150218_210115_zps7kzd5kzv.jpg

20150218_214617_zpsngfqns8n.jpg

20150218_214718_zpsxmpdz5z5.jpg

20150218_214744_zpsigbvaqbn.jpg

20150218_220857_zpshk4b3xz4.jpg

20150218_221350_zpsmaxhicxg.jpg

  • Like 2
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David! You've gone off your rails... I can't believe you did that. Great pics. Why haven't you posted more pics of your boat?

It's funny... as I was unscrewing bolt number 37 last night at 10pm, I wondered to myself...

"Would you be doing this if not for that silly forum?"

The answer of course is NFW!

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The wait is over... I cracked open my G4 tonight. I had to remove 4 individual panels held on by no less than 50 hex bolts and red thread lock. I didn't appreciate how robust this tower was until I saw the guts first hand. It's no joke!

20150218_204645_zpswwcidtpd.jpg

20150218_210115_zps7kzd5kzv.jpg

20150218_214617_zpsngfqns8n.jpg

20150218_214718_zpsxmpdz5z5.jpg

20150218_214744_zpsigbvaqbn.jpg

20150218_220857_zpshk4b3xz4.jpg

20150218_221350_zpsmaxhicxg.jpg

This definitely changes my view of this tower some

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Why are you doing this? Are you wanting to run thicker gauge wire or more wires to your speakers???

I just wanted to see what's inside! :lol:

Actually, I'm running another set of wires to the tower speakers so I can have a dedicated amp for each pair.

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I just wanted to see what's inside! :lol:

Actually, I'm running another set of wires to the tower speakers so I can have a dedicated amp for each pair.

Doesn't each pair already have a dedicated wire? I would assume the speakers on each side would be coupled in parallel to a single wire and two wires would come out of the tower at the base on port side. Is this not true?

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Doesn't each pair already have a dedicated wire? I would assume the speakers on each side would be coupled in parallel to a single wire and two wires would come out of the tower at the base on port side. Is this not true?

It is true. But I want to run a dedicated speaker wire to EACH CAN. Same thing Fman did. Like him I'm running one amp to each pair of speakers on the tower.

This will give me 300 watts at 4ohms to each can.

The alternative (only one amp, leave wiring as is) would only give me 210 ways at 2 ohms to each can.

Edited by IXFE
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Oh! Dedicated wire to each speaker can. I see.

I'm just trying to mix it up. I did the 210 @ 2ohm deal last year. I'm not a total audio snob. This is change for change sake.

I have an ever so slight bit of regret for not changing the gel more than I did. So I'm embracing as much change elsewhere as I can muster.

Did I tell you I'm going with the new Big 12 amp powered by xi2500 amp? Like I said... mixing it up [emoji33]

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It is true. But I want to run a dedicated speaker wire to EACH CAN. Same thing Fman did. Like him I'm running one amp to each pair of speakers on the tower.

This will give me 300 watts at 4ohms to each can.

The alternative (only one amp, leave wiring as is) would only give me 210 ways at 2 ohms to each can.

No that's not right. If you bridge the two channel amp and then wire the speakers in series (8 ohms) you'll get the the same power as running each on its own 4 ohm channel. Doesn't matter now, and having the two sets of wires run definitely provides for future flexibility.

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