REV 10's and G4

[IXFE]

No that's not right. If you bridge the two channel amp and then wire the speakers in series (8 ohms) you'll get the the same power as running each on its own 4 ohm channel. Doesn't matter now, and having the two sets of wires run definitely provides for future flexibility.

Come on, Shawn. Give some credit. I was partially right. To get 300 watts at 4 ohms to each can I need to bi-amp the tower (assuming I'm using Exile xm30.2 amps, which I am).

The part you want to debate is whether I need dedicated speaker wire run to each can. Maybe I don't, but there is some debate on this topic, no? So far as I can tell you're the only guy questioning whether running dedicated speaker wire is a superior approach. I'm just trying to be thorough here... not cut corners, etc.

The other issue I have is that I can't figure out how to remove the speakers from the tower in order to expose the connectors. This all but rules out going the jumper route.

Edited February 19, 2015 by IXFE

[shawndoggy]

Come on, Shawn. Give some credit. I was partially right. To get 300 watts at 4 ohms to each can I need to bi-amp the tower (assuming I'm using Exile xm30.2 amps, which I am).

The part you want to debate is whether I need dedicated speaker wire run to each can. Maybe you're right, but there is some debate on this topic, no? So far as I can tell you're the only guy questioning whether running dedicated speaker wire is a superior approach. I'm just trying to be thorough here... not cut corners, etc.

IXFE I personally did it both ways. So I'm probably one of the very few "debaters" who is speaking from personal experience.

From the factory, my MB only had two 16awg wires per side. For two years I ran two pair of Rev10s (4 cans) from two amps (KS600.2) on those four wires. Last year I went a litle beyond what you are doing now -- I replaced ALL the tower runs with heavier gauge (13awg) wire, with one run to each can.

Absolutely no perceptible difference. None.

Which is not to say the journey of doing it just because doesn't have its own value (tinkering on the boat, in and of itself, is what winter/spring is all about). I mean shoot, you got us those sweet pics of the inside honeycomb of the tower. Worth it right there.

Edited February 19, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

Come on, Shawn. Give some credit. I was partially right. To get 300 watts at 4 ohms to each can I need to bi-amp the tower (assuming I'm using Exile xm30.2 amps, which I am).

The part you want to debate is whether I need dedicated speaker wire run to each can. Maybe I don't, but there is some debate on this topic, no? So far as I can tell you're the only guy questioning whether running dedicated speaker wire is a superior approach. I'm just trying to be thorough here... not cut corners, etc.

The other issue I have is that I can't figure out how to remove the speakers from the tower in order to expose the connectors. This all but rules out going the jumper route.

so i guess i shouldn't bust your chops and tell you arent actually biamping, just running 2 amps for 4 pods.

You will need to pull the grill, pull the driver then you should find 2 bolts holding each pod to the tower.

[IXFE]

IXFE I personally did it both ways. So I'm probably one of the very few "debaters" who is speaking from personal experience.

From the factory, my MB only had two wires per side. For two years I ran two pair (4 cans) from two amps (KS600.2) on those four wires. Last year I went a litle beyond what you are doing now -- I replaced ALL the tower runs with heavier gauge wire, with one run to each can.

Absolutely no perceptible difference. None.

Which is not to say the journey of doing it just because doesn't have its own value (tinkering on the boat, in and of itself, is what winter/spring is all about). I mean shoot, you got us those sweet pics of the inside honeycomb of the tower. Worth it right there.

I hear ya... and I do remember your testimonial.

My biggest issue to the "easier" route is I can't get these damn cans off the tower.

On the other hand, I'm staring at the insides of the tower arms and I see all sorts of issues with running more wire through it.

So I'm kind of stuck... literally... at this very moment.

Waiting for PTM to call me back. Expecting the head engineer's call any minute...

[IXFE]

so i guess i shouldn't bust your chops and tell you arent actually biamping, just running 2 amps for 4 pods.

You will need to pull the grill, pull the driver then you should find 2 bolts holding each pod to the tower.

Give me a break, I don't do this for a living, man.

Thanks for the tip on the Revs. I was afraid that was the answer. Never heard of a speaker you needed to disassemble just to remove.

Already wishing I'd just stuck with Exile.

[Cory]

You are in too deep to turn back now. Only viable option is to keep digging. Surrender is NOT an option soldier!!!

EDIT: I take this back. I'm worried for you. No shame in putting it back together and forgetting about this whole ordeal. The pics were worth it. Stop digging!!!

Edited February 19, 2015 by Cory

[shawndoggy]

Give me a break, I don't do this for a living, man.

Thanks for the tip on the Revs. I was afraid that was the answer. Never heard of a speaker you needed to disassemble just to remove.

Already wishing I'd just stuck with Exile.

Or gone aftermarket with the revs (in which case you'd be in the same boat, attaching the swivel clamp to the tower).

The upside of having the cans bolted up from the inside is it gives you the most possible headroom. Revs from WS or XM9s from Exile would hang lower with swivel clamps than those proprietary malibu cans do.

The bullet hollowpoints on my vride were like that too (had to remove driver to remove can). It was a major PITA!

[Cory]

Don't strip (or cross thread) any threads when you put that back together--aluminum is particularly vulnerable to that with steel screws. Whatever you do, do NOT use an impact screwdriver. I'd recommend hand screw everything back together.

Edited February 19, 2015 by Cory

[Cory]

Or gone aftermarket with the revs (in which case you'd be in the same boat, attaching the swivel clamp to the tower).

The upside of having the cans bolted up from the inside is it gives you the most possible headroom. Revs from WS or XM9s from Exile would hang lower with swivel clamps than those proprietary malibu cans do.

The bullet hollowpoints on my vride were like that too (had to remove driver to remove can). It was a major PITA!

Built in theft deterrent--it's a "feature."

[MLA]

Thanks for the tip on the Revs. I was afraid that was the answer. Never heard of a speaker you needed to disassemble just to remove.

Been that way all the way back to Malibu's illusion tower. Not entirely a speaker thing, but tower design. Mastercraft and Tige towers are also this way.

[IXFE]

Don't strip (or cross thread) any threads when you put that back together--aluminum is particularly vulnerable to that with steel screws. Whatever you do, do NOT use an impact screwdriver. I'd recommend hand screw everything back together.

Yes, this goes without saying. I've got my torque wrench here as well and plan to tighten to PTM's spec of 30lbs. (Just conformed that with them on the phone)

[IXFE]

Okay, I have a confession to make...

Shawn was right. And not only that, but he came through tonight in my time of need with a phone call that saved me hours of headache. Thanks!!

After much deliberation, I decided not to run another set of speaker wires through the G4. As much as you'd think it would be easy because you can remove the panels, it's actually quite a nightmare to get more wire in there. First of all, the insides of that tower are pretty full what with the honeycomb and all. There's only a small channel on each arm meant for running wire. The wire that's already in there (speaker on the port side, lighting on the starboard side), takes up the entire channel. Even if you could manage to get more wire in their you would run into problems further up the arm as the wire sheath has a 3" section that has been heat shrunk tight. There's also a bungee cord connected into that heat shrink. The area choke point... you can't get any more wire in the sheath through that section because it's so tight. You'd have to cut the heat shrink off. But that would release the bungee, which is an integral part of the tower mechanism as it helps route the wire sheath when the tower is raised or lowered. See pic below of the area in question.

I even spoke to PTM lead engineer to discuss all this. He spent 20 minutes with me (after hours) and were very nice. He didn't tell me not to do it. The guy honestly wanted to make it work for me. He simply explained to me all the moving parts and why it was designed just so (> 5,000 hours of engineering in that tower). I was the one who came to conclusion that it would be a bad idea to muck with it.

So... that's where Shawndoggy comes in. He was right... the "jumper" wire setup, as I call it, should have no noticeable difference to what I was planning. The amps will send the exact same power, only they will do it at an 8 ohm load (two 4ohm tower speakers wired together). Each amp will run bridged instead of two way (see diagram below, which Shawn has posted in other threads).

I still had to do some wire snipping and soldering in the upper portion of the tower to replicate the diagram. But I was able to do it without removing the Rev 8's, which was nice.

So the tower is all done now. All the panels and hex bolts are back in place, locktite and torqued to spec.

[Cory]

I can sleep again! You were worrying me. I thought you might break out a dremmel and start sawing away at the guts of your tower. Let's agree to never go back in there again.

[shawndoggy]

My Paint skillz are top notch.

[MLA]

What ga cable is that for each "side"?

[IXFE]

What ga cable is that for each "side"?

Factory cable is 14 gauge. I wish I could beef it up to 12, but like I said... it's not worth screwing with that tower.

Edited February 20, 2015 by IXFE

[Cory]

Factory cable is 14 gauge. I wish I could beef it up to 12, but like I said... it's not worth screwing with that tower.

If you don't describe what you did to the tower already as "screwing" you at least molested it a little..

[IXFE]

If you don't describe what you did to the tower already as "screwing" you at least molested it a little..

Nah... I just took her clothes off. Then after gazing at her for a few hours, I felt guilty and quickly dressed her again.

Edit: hitting "submit" on this one was not easy... even as a joke it feels wrong. Hehe, I guess.

Edited February 21, 2015 by IXFE

[HB Boater]

Pulled a 4 ohm run to the tower. Now each can will have its own pair of wires. Also, added RG-58 (50 ohm) for a VHF marine antenna. We do Lake Powell a lot and have had the need in the past for a marine radio. The antenna is easily removed with a BNC connector. Plenty of room inside the tower. I had to cut the shrink tubing and low profile tie rap off the bungie. Reordered the tie rap and heavy duty shrink tubing with adhesive. I actually ordered 50' of the same loom material and ran the bundle inside the loom all the way to the SD-2s.

Edited March 31, 2015 by HB Boater

[HB Boater]

4 Ohm Run down the port side of the G4

Edited March 31, 2015 by HB Boater

[HB Boater]

RG-58 Run down the Starboard side. I tucked the coax in the factor loom worked out perfect.

Edited April 14, 2015 by HB Boater

[HB Boater]

VHF Marine antenna mount. The BNC is mounted in the tower with access on the bottom. I have a nice black cap to cover the threads when not in use.

[IXFE]

Nice work! You did what I didn't have the courage to try!

[shawndoggy]

apparently four will fit with an adapter?

[tn_rider]

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