Shawndoggy '14 LSV Stereo Build

[jstenger]

I'll be off to the races on this project as well, starting Friday night when I get back home with the BU. I sort of wish Valentine's Day wasn't Saturday. Don't point this post out to my wife...

Make her a nice breakfast, then work on the boat for the rest of the day.

[Cory]

Make her a nice breakfast, then work on the boat for the rest of the day.

Well, I do like the evenings on Valentines Day, so maybe I won't work too late.

[shawndoggy]

Why not trace the factory kick panel onto 3/4" plywood and make the face plate an integral member of the enclosure?

It would make the box even more unwieldy to install, but that's a possibility.

[Cory]

It would make the box even more unwieldy to install, but that's a possibility.

That might be true. But if the box isn't too deep to slide in with the full size kick panel attached (i.e., integral), you could trace the factory kick panel onto your 3/4" MDF and add height if desired. Then router dado channels into the backside of the integrated kick plate for gluing and attaching to the rest of the box. May have to square up corners of router channels with a chisel. Then you are free to cut the speaker hole anywhere on the integrated kick panel as long as it falls within the box. If you plan on adding a slight incline to the front panel (or otherwise have none right angles), then butte joints to the face plate is all I would do.

Before mounting the speaker and before gluing the back of the box on, place carpet over the hole, trace the opening onto the back of the carpet, add required radius to clear the flange on the speaker, cut out carpet. After box is assembled and painted, then glue the carpet over the integrated kick panel with a bunch of contact cement and wrap around the edges of the integrated kick panel.

That is my thought anyway. I am sure there is more than one way to skin this cat.

Edited February 10, 2015 by Cory

[IXFE]

It would make the box even more unwieldy to install, but that's a possibility.

Another reason... the kick panel covers up pretty much everything (width and height) making it near impossible to get behind it when it's in place.

Now imagine that kick panel as an itegral piece of the entire enclosure... you slide that beast in place and then what? How are you going to get behind it to screw down the rest of the box?

The only way that works would be to install the box with the entire front piece missing (wide open). In the future of you want to get back there to service the box you'll have the same problem.

Not sure I like that idea.

Edited February 10, 2015 by IXFE

[David]

I've always believed in making the façade an independent panel from the enclosure. I want that piece to float until the final assembly.

I like the mounting access as described above. Some of the larger enclosures need to be inserted at an angle or up an over an elevated mounting platform and a tight fitting pre-attached façade makes that impossible.

I don't like to screw the box down to the sole through the woofer opening as it will not remain airtight long term.

On occasion when installing a bass-reflex 12-inch or 15-inch, a full façade was too large to insert as one rigid piece. So the façade was split, slightly folded, and inserted via an invisible seam that is covered by the thick rubber-backed marine carpet, and mounted in place.

[jstenger]

You could leave the sub out when you set the box and run screws thru the bottom and into the floor. Put the sub back in when done.

Edited February 10, 2015 by jstenger

[Cory]

I only attached my last enclosure via the kick panel (angled screws through corners of the kick plate into floor never piercing the enclosure itself). I also made the fit very snug so it wasn't going anywhere even without the screws, but I suppose if mounting the backside is a concern, then my route is not the best route.

[Cory]

This was the last enclosure I made using the technique I described above. It allowed me to shape the integral face plate perfectly to the opening for a tight fit.

[Cory]

I was able to notch out the integral face plate around the lip on the shelf in the lower right corner and contour perfectly to the curvature of the hull. Since this piece is actually part of the enclosure, the whole thing was held in place via friction fit. But I also added two screws for good measure.

I did multiple dry fittings and adjustments without the box part of the enclosure attached until the panel fit perfect. Then assembled the box part to the front panel.

Edited February 11, 2015 by Cory

[tn_rider]

I have a heater in my kick panel as well. I have two 12's sealed under the helm. Got the heater ports over the subs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shawndoggy]

finally, some progress. Sub box is substantially complete. Had to hook it up in the truck with the new sub just to be sure it sounds OK. Yessir, it pounds.

cory will appreciate the roundover (and double baffle)

Of course I didn't check to see if the port would actually fit before cutting the hole for the driver. a little closer than I'd have liked. Oh well, wouldn't be made my me if there weren't something that bugged me.

terminal cup on the side where it'll be easy to reach under the dash:

Boots is ambivalent.

[Cory]

That thing looks like it's gonna be beastly.

[Stevo]

Boots is ambivalent.

BOOTS!!!

[IXFE]

Nice work, Shawn!

What material is that? How about some pics from other angles?

[Lance B. Johnson]

Looks great Shawn.

What are you going to do to waterproof it?

[shawndoggy]

it's 3/4" mdf. Doubled up on the baffle.

I've had good luck waterproofing with fiberglass/resin (I usually glass up the bottom and corners, because if you're pouring resin all over the box why not add the mat too?).

[Slayer]

it's 3/4" mdf. Doubled up on the baffle.

I've had good luck waterproofing with fiberglass/resin (I usually glass up the bottom and corners, because if you're pouring resin all over the box why not add the mat too?).

Good info.......

Can't wait for some weather warm enough to work on stuff without fear of frost bite.

[Lance B. Johnson]

it's 3/4" mdf. Doubled up on the baffle.

I've had good luck waterproofing with fiberglass/resin (I usually glass up the bottom and corners, because if you're pouring resin all over the box why not add the mat too?).

Same for mine. Fiberglass resin.

[hwsportsmitch]

If you order a BU with out any sound pack. Do you get a amp board from BU or at least the wood piece glued to the glass to screw the board to?

[Fman]

If you order with a stereo delete all you get is speaker wire to each cabin speaker and one speaker wire on each side of the tower. You do get the mounting blocks for the amp rack but you will have to make your own amp rack or your dealer might be able to order the amp rack seperate from Malibu.

Edited February 23, 2015 by Fman

[Fman]

Shawn, beast of a box...nice work! what is the cu ft?

[nyryan2001]

Shawn interested in what you think about the 4" Aeroport. I know you said in your I initial hook up test it sounded good.

I've seen those on a lot of installs, but wondered how they would perform as compared to a good slot port. Is it really that easy?? Any wind or port noise? How's the sq?

[shawndoggy]

Shawn interested in what you think about the 4" Aeroport. I know you said in your I initial hook up test it sounded good.

I've seen those on a lot of installs, but wondered how they would perform as compared to a good slot port. Is it really that easy?? Any wind or port noise? How's the sq?

Not noisy at all. And I am using the unorthodox drain pipe elbow from lowes, which lines up well but not exactly (I need 15.5" length but box is only 13.5" deep internal). Before finally caving and trying the precision port, I've used ABS plastic pipe for a different ported box (different driver) and it huffed and puffed even at low volumes so I know what you are talking about with port noise. The precision port is very quiet. The other nice thing about the precision port is that you can experiment a bit with your tuning by using different port lengths. pretty hard to do that with a slot port.

And yes, much easier than a slot port from the shadetree assembly perspective. At least as far as making sure that you get the length/tuning frequency right.

[shawndoggy]

Shawn, beast of a box...nice work! what is the cu ft?

It's 2 ft3 internal.