Shawndoggy '14 LSV Stereo Build

[MLA]

I didn't even know something like that (HSE) existed for boats. I'm not a huge stereo freak, but that is one of the stereo upgrades I would do!! I have even mentioned to my girlfriend I wish the boat had it like vehicles do. There must not have been a big market for this thou? No one makes them anymore at all?

If you are using your phone as your music source via the 3.5mm head phone port, there are some apps that are motion activated volume adjusting.

[shawndoggy]

If you are using your phone as your music source via the 3.5mm head phone port, there are some apps that are motion activated volume adjusting.

Is there anything any good right now? There used to be one that worked but it quit getting updated with the itunes store.

Anything that works through the headphone jack should also work via bluetooth for the iphone.

[Lance B. Johnson]

The one we tried didn't really work but that was a few years ago.

[MLA]

Is there anything any good right now? There used to be one that worked but it quit getting updated with the itunes store.

Anything that works through the headphone jack should also work via bluetooth for the iphone.

The one that seems to be the best, which doesnt mean its all that good, was one geared toward biking. I dont use one, so cant really say much on whats a hit and what blows.

[Murphy8166]

any updates...hanger bolts

[Cory]

I'm curious how you did those amp mounting studs. What are they? I can see spacers, but can't make out the rest.

[shawndoggy]

I'm curious how you did those amp mounting studs. What are they? I can see spacers, but can't make out the rest.

It's a 1.5" brass screw, through the back of the amp board, into a tee nut on the other side. Then a nylock nut tightened down on top of the tee nut so the screw is locked in place. Then the half inch high threaded spacer on top of that.

[Cory]

It's a 1.5" brass screw, through the back of the amp board, into a tee nut on the other side. Then a nylock nut tightened down on top of the tee nut so the screw is locked in place. Then the half inch high threaded spacer on top of that.

Interesting... Thanks for sharing the secrete sauce.

[Greeko]

u need more subs SD

[wakebrdr94]

Is there anything any good right now? There used to be one that worked but it quit getting updated with the itunes store.

Anything that works through the headphone jack should also work via bluetooth for the iphone.

Ride My Wake. It's available in the App Store. Speed based volume control. Haven't tried it yet, but I've followed them on FB.

[Cory]

Ride My Wake. It's available in the App Store. Speed based volume control. Haven't tried it yet, but I've followed them on FB.

So, what is wrong with the speed volume control built into Maliview? Does it not work as well? I use it. It seems to work well enough. Perhaps I don't know/understand what I'm missing???

[wakebrdr94]

I don't know. I never use speed control. I'm driving 99% of the time and just turn the knob on my ZLD

[dalt1]

So, what is wrong with the speed volume control built into Maliview? Does it not work as well? I use it. It seems to work well enough. Perhaps I don't know/understand what I'm missing???

Problem with auto volume is when activated, it will un mute the stereo with any throttle position change. Since it is throttle activated, it always wants to correct even when I want it to stay muted till I un mute. Turned off auto volume so the mute would stay muted till I wanted it un muted.

[IXFE]

It's a 1.5" brass screw, through the back of the amp board, into a tee nut on the other side. Then a nylock nut tightened down on top of the tee nut so the screw is locked in place. Then the half inch high threaded spacer on top of that.

Do the amps sit on top of the nyloc nut? Metal to metal? Does the 1.5" brass screw poke out the back of the board creating a sharp point for the hidden wires to snag on? Having a hard time picturing this, but want to understand. My stereo project is probably only a month away.

Anyway, this thread needs an update... preferably with pics.

Edited January 10, 2015 by IXFE

[shawndoggy]

Head of the screw is on the back so no sharp points.

The amps sit on a threaded spacer which sits on top of the nylock nut.

[shawndoggy]

finally a couple of pics:

the amp studs (front and back):

sadly, this is as far as I've gotten on the amp rack (hanger bolts installed to hang and remove the rack):

[shawndoggy]

Sub box design is taking shape... Ported 1.8ft3. Should I side fire or fire into cabin?

[Lance B. Johnson]

Sub box design is taking shape... Ported 1.8ft3. Should I side fire or fire into cabin?

Too late for me now, but I wish I would have side fired for a cleaner look. Oh well, too much time invested now.

[Levi900RR]

I like the idea of side fire. One less place to worry about your foot ending up...

[IXFE]

Sub box design is taking shape... Ported 1.8ft3. Should I side fire or fire into cabin?

Shawn, I had front fire (sealed) on my 2013. Then last year I did side fire (ported) and liked it MUCH better. It literally shook the floor in the boat.

What I don't know is how much of the difference is attributable to being ported or side fire. I suspect it was mostly the porting.

I didn't love that it made the sub invisible. Part of the fun is showing off your driver, no?

edit: thanks for posting your measurements. I might have to steel those with pride. My only question... are you having to accommodate a heater core under there? Or is that really your optimal size? I thought you'd want a touch over 2 cubic feet?

Edited February 10, 2015 by IXFE

[shawndoggy]

I have a heater core and hot tube in the walkway. It's the hot tube that really presents the barrier. I'd think without the hot tube and heater core you could easily go 18" deep, but recognizing that the space gets narrower the farther back you go. That box design could go a little higher, and could bend out toward the hull more if I wanted to get all fancy with compound angles etc (I don't). Even then you have the issue of getting the box between the walkthrough wall and the seat base (which ( did test with a cardboard mockup).

I switched subs and will be using one (arc audio flatline 12) that can accommodate a slightly smaller ported box.

I've been doing a bit more research and I think I am going to go with the front firing configuration. I've always been happy with that even sealed, so ported should be fine too. Plus, like you say, might as well see the sub, right?

[IXFE]

I have a heater core and hot tube in the walkway. It's the hot tube that really presents the barrier. I'd think without the hot tube and heater core you could easily go 18" deep, but recognizing that the space gets narrower the farther back you go. That box design could go a little higher, and could bend out toward the hull more if I wanted to get all fancy with compound angles etc (I don't). Even then you have the issue of getting the box between the walkthrough wall and the seat base (which ( did test with a cardboard mockup).

I switched subs and will be using one (arc audio flatline 12) that can accommodate a slightly smaller ported box.

I've been doing a bit more research and I think I am going to go with the front firing configuration. I've always been happy with that even sealed, so ported should be fine too. Plus, like you say, might as well see the sub, right?

That's what I'm thinking, Shawn. Front fire to keep it simple and sort of factory looking. Are you using factory, carpeted front panel? I think I will. But my boat has no factory sub so I can cut the hole wherever I need to. Does yours have factory sub? I guess if you do making an identical panel would be easy enough.

What are you using to port it? And where will the port exit the box? Back side?

How will you mount the enclosure to the floor?

What material are you using?

Sorry for all the questions. As you know I had a shop do my sub last year but think I'll try it myself this year. So I'm back in uncharted territory.

[shawndoggy]

had factory sub. So I have that front facia/kickplate, but the hole is cut in the wrong place. It will either be a template or salvaged in another way. I may try to "square out" the sub hole and show part of the box through the enlarged hole.

I will use a 4" precision port. Port will also exit on the front of the box.

I am cutting up the old "box" that came with the factory sub. I will be mounting a few pieces on the floor as spacers and then stainless L brackets into those to the sub box.

I am using MDF. I know there are debates about whether MDF is suitable, but out here in the desert I've never had a self-built box fail. I will seal with fiberglass resin then paint the exterior with some sweet sweet krylon (really!).

[Cory]

Why not trace the factory kick panel onto 3/4" plywood and make the face plate an integral member of the enclosure?

[Cory]

I'll be off to the races on this project as well, starting Friday night when I get back home with the BU. I sort of wish Valentine's Day wasn't Saturday. Don't point this post out to my wife...

Edited February 10, 2015 by Cory