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Exile = Great Service


rugger

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I had the same experience. When Exile was a complete unknown in marine audio, they created a custom crossover based on the sound preference I described. I am not even going to go into how happy I was with the final product since this thread is about customer service. Brian listened......really listened.....as I described the sound I was looking for. Try this with any other speaker company. I predict laughter, if only silent and internal, followed by bitter disappointment on your part.

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Great experience as well. I am building my system now and haven't had any questions but its nice to know that they are there if I need them. I will add that I am very impressed with the quality of the product.

Edited by Lance B. Johnson
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I agree that Brian and Exile provide fantastic service with a quality affordable product. I have purchased their sub, amp and inboat speakers and have been very impressed with their sound. Brian always enjoys taking the time to know about your particular boat situation and budget and help you build a solid system that will be good for the long haul. Just purchased another xi12d from him!

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LBJ, what exile components are you running?

Four surf 9s. Xm 30.2 ...Surf package two.

Javelin amp for interiors and 12 xi12dvc sub.

Pretty basic system. I want excellent sound, not necessarily loud.

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I'd say that is going to rock... We wakeboard still quite a bit so I am going xm9's with two xm 30.2 amps at 4 ohms. Totally newbie here for install, but I'm looking forward to learning and the challenge of it.

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I'd say that is going to rock... We wakeboard still quite a bit so I am going xm9's with two xm 30.2 amps at 4 ohms. Totally newbie here for install, but I'm looking forward to learning and the challenge of it.

I've seen all your other installation threads, this one should be no different, nice and clean.
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Total uncharted waters for me here, I don't even really understand what 4 ohms means compared to 2 ohms. All I know is I have to run more speaker wire in my G3 which is already causing me more work :( I hope LBJ posts up a build thread, my boat wont be here until Feb, I can watch and learn.

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You really do not need to run more wire (more conductors) in the tower with two 2-channel amplifiers on four 4-ohm speakers.

Bridge one amplifier to the left and one amplifier to the right. Series the two left speakers and series the two right speakers. This will be an 8-ohm load.

Four channels into stereo 4-ohms equals the identical power as four channels bridged into two channels into 8-ohms.

You'll only need four total conductors versus eight.

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David, isn't there only one speaker wire from factory on each side of tower? I was under impression I would need one speaker wire for each speaker on each side of the tower? I would need two separate wires on each side of the tower, rather than just one that comes from factory. The 4 ohms is created by having each speaker on its own wire.

If I used the one speaker wire on each side and tower and use the one speaker wire to connect to two speakers per side this would be a 2 ohm setup.

Clear as mud? Or maybe I am totally off on this... Hopefully you can understand what I am trying to explain.

Edited by Fman
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He's talikng series wiring, which would mean positive of one speaker , negative of that speaker to positive of the next speaker and then finally negative back to your amp.This s type of wiring, or daisy chaining sums the ohm loads vs parallel wiring that divides the ohm load by the # of speakers wired in parallel. You are talikng parallel wiring.

Your can do it the way he is suggesting, but it will still require some new wiring runs to the upper hoop as you said you wanted to mount one set up there. It will just require you to wire differently at the amps and at the speakers. Either way will equal the same output to all four speakers and you will have to split your RCA inputs left -left and right- right to each amp because you essentially have a RIGHT amp and a LEFT amp now to keep your stereo phasing.

Edited by Bawshogg
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Maybe voodoo but Tim from wetsounds said that running series would put speakers out of phase for a perceived loss of output. I had mine wired in series just as david suggests for two seasons. Then I rewired with dedicated wire to each can this spring. Who friggin knows if it was louder? Did a retune at the same time and a whole winter separated hearing the two configurations back to back.

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Mind as well keep this rolling... Does Malibu use quality speaker wire for the tower? I was figuring the Malibu wiring would be low budget requiring me to run two new wires on each side with high quality speaker wire, or would it even make a difference?

Thanks (all) for the clarification on the above, I'm just going to stick what Brian recommended and run a separate wire for each can.

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Is it possible to do a single run of 8 conductor up one leg of the g3 and through the hoop to the other leg? Or do people do two four conductor runs (one up each leg)? I think I have enough 8 conductor wire left to rewire mine if I can just go up one leg.

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Mind as well keep this rolling... Does Malibu use quality speaker wire for the tower? I was figuring the Malibu wiring would be low budget requiring me to run two new wires on each side with high quality speaker wire, or would it even make a difference?

Thanks (all) for the clarification on the above, I'm just going to stick what Brian recommended and run a separate wire for each can.

The simple answer is yes, the wire is quality as far as speaker wire goes. Is it adaquite for every amp and speaker setup, no, but thats a different argument from the quality question.

I would definitely consider the bridged/series configuration with a single 12ga 2-conductor per side for one pair. I also prefer summed mono when the amp allows it. Stereo is lost beyond sun pad and even more so when surfing as you get 90% of the music from the side the surfer is on.

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Fman,

A simple diagram would give you confidence in the bridged/series scheme. It is identical in performance to the stereo discrete scheme in every respect. And the bridged/series scheme is a little cleaner layout and installation. You would need RCA 'Y' adapters in either case.

shawndoggy,

Seriesed speakers, even those with multi-pole crossovers, would have the same phase response between the two speakers as those paralleled. The circuit does not differentiate between which speaker is first and which is second.

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Is it possible to do a single run of 8 conductor up one leg of the g3 and through the hoop to the other leg? Or do people do two four conductor runs (one up each leg)? I think I have enough 8 conductor wire left to rewire mine if I can just go up one leg.

Shawn, you can run quite a bit of wire through there. I have 3 runs of jacketed 4 conductor 14g , for a total of 12 conductors. I used my stock speaker runs for lights.

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David, a diagram would really help... It would be nice to not have to run the extra wire through each side.

Brian, if your out there, what are your thoughts?

Fman, I am feeling particularly generous this morning. Here's your diagram!

bridgedtowers_zps0ab4b5e0.png

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Shawn, you can run quite a bit of wire through there. I have 3 runs of jacketed 4 conductor 14g , for a total of 12 conductors. I used my stock speaker runs for lights.

did you run up one leg and then through the hoop?

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Yup,but the hoop is not open ended, nor is the solid aluminum support. I had to to a small external loop into the hoop. Its prett inconspicuos and I grommeted and ran the wires through some techflex.

Edited by Bawshogg
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