Super basic Stereo upgrade

[Bozboat]

I tried to cheap out on version one and two of my budget system and it just didn't work. I Finally dove in and followed SD rec on Rev 8s, (he actually recommended Rev 10s) and with some lightly used amps have had two good summers. This winter I will be removing the soggy head unit, adding a WSBT, replacing the sub amp and maybe the sub itself. Best two parts so far were the Rev8s and the WS420 equalizer. What I mean to say is that I should have just done it all the right way first.

[robtr8]

Rabbit hole in sight! Welcome to our addiction.

There's a guy on DIYMA asking about what's the best midrange driver pair for $1k. That's right, 1 pair of drivers!

Alternative #1: Call Brian at Exile.

Alternative #2: Call your local JL Audio/Wetsounds dealership.

Alternative #3: Search throughout the "Stereo & How To" section. It's all there, you just need to do some homework. Or build whatever the brain trust here on the 'Bu Crew come up with. Thing is, it won't be YOUR sound. You need to go out and see what's out there!

Alternative #4: Go listen to some boats and cars with "better" systems. Go demo some high end home systems. You'll be amazed.

Side story:

So my buddy wants some deck speakers to compete with the "Nigaz in Paris" set out on the party cove where he lives. I suggest Monitor Audio CL80's. He pairs them with a Crown amp (one of his clients, has TI chips). He says "will I get in trouble?" I says, "naw, just play Frank and some big band, it'll drive the boaters crazy but the OG's on the board of directors will love it!"

Next day I'm across the cove at a friends condo and I here Harry Connick Jr. coming from his house, 200 yards away. Awesome.

Edited August 14, 2014 by robtr8

[MLA]

You think I'd be smart to push the budget a little?

For tower speakers, amp to drive them and Blue Tooth? No way, $1500 is plenty for a solid system based on what you've listed. Now, if you are needing a head-unit, 4 in-boats, sub and amp for them, $1500 will be tight.

[Levi900RR]

Got out on the boat this morning. Crawled under the helm and switched the crossover on my amp to flat. It was cutting all the lows out of my cabin speakers. It is totally satisfactory now. Sounds good, not great but WAY better. I know this is going against all advice but I may keep the cabins the way they are and go for some tower speakers / amp. I know I'll be light on the bass but I always add a sub later.

If I can get the quality that I currently have in the cabin out behind the boat a little my requirements will be met.

[shawndoggy]

Levi.... I would leave it high pass, but clearly it needs to be adjusted. It's just crossed too high. There's no way that those speakers are reproducing anything below 90hz. If you cross them there, they'll probably sound better than ever. And add a sub and you will be loving it.

[David]

I totally agree with the above. Even without a subwoofer, once you add an external amplifier you should run the coaxials highpass. A 6.5" coaxial might be able to produce just a little bit in the 60/70 Hz region but the amplitude will be so low that the audible contribution is zero. So use the highpass filter on a fullrange coaxial the same way you would use a subsonic filter on a subwoofer. When set at 50 or 60 Hz, you will not detect any difference in low bass contribution. However, you will be narrowing the bandwidth and reducing wasteful excursion. The net result will be more power over the remaining bandwidth and cleaner midrange. Again, this cannot cause you to lose bass you never had.

[robtr8]

What kind of music do you listen to?

[wakedncsu]

Levi, something else to help with clear, loud tower speakers is an FAE.

My speakers sound MUCH better after removing the exhaust note.

[Levi900RR]

Oh man, now were throwing an FAE in the budget... LOL

I've received a bunch of PM's and I think when I pull the boat out I'll call David and let him help me through the process. Sounds like that's the easiest way to go.

Thanks everyone!

[Levi900RR]

Digging this thread up again... I was out about a month ago in some wicked chop and my HU blew right out of my arm rest and landed on the ground. I had just unplugged everything and wen't radio silent the rest of the year. Yesterday I hooked it back up and pieced my arm rest back together. Well... its officially dead. There is a "filter / fuse" box on the back of the HU and the board in there is fried. So I AT LEAST need a new HU and I'm thinking this is probably the time to do phase 1 of my system build.

So I'm going to grab a 5 channel amp, a sub and a new HU to start. Going to try and keep my cabin speakers as they look to be in pretty good shape. Phase 2 will be tower speakers and another amp to power them. Just wondering what I need to consider for Phase 1 that will make Phase 2 easier / better. I'd LOVE to stay around the $500 range for this part, but I want to have a good set up so I'll spend what I need to.

[shawndoggy]

Have you considered just skipping the HU and using an EQ instead? Better voltage, better zone control, better platform for future upgrades... and if you find you are missing the HU in the future you could always add one.

[toddthelineman]

Have you considered just skipping the HU and using an EQ instead? Better voltage, better zone control, better platform for future upgrades... and if you find you are missing the HU in the future you could always add one.

Seems ideal

[Levi900RR]

That is a great point. Sometimes I just want to listen to the regular old FM radio. I know that sounds crazy and I could probably use my phone for that too but I do think I am going to stick with a HU at this point. Even if its a real cheap one. I was actually looking at some almost free Pyle audio HU's. I like that they have a local weather band.

[Levi900RR]

What do you guys think about this? Could I sell 1 of the subs and the box and keep the Amp and 1 sub? Decent deal?

http://burlington.craigslist.org/ele/4646095458.html

[shawndoggy]

Levi I like these choices more:

http://burlington.craigslist.org/ele/4667701838.html

http://burlington.craigslist.org/ele/4658837101.html

[Levi900RR]

Dude... that first one is in my back yard!

[shawndoggy]

why are you leaving perfectly good stereo stuff in your back yard?

[Levi900RR]

I emailed the guy. Would I end up having to run 3 amps if I go this route?

1 - sub

1 - cabins

1 - tower

[shawndoggy]

yes, unless you have a 5 channel amp that could cover one of the zones plus a sub. 3 amps is the traditional setup and most flexible. 5 channel amp has its place, but can tend to "lock you in" to a particular configuration.

[MLA]

I would pass on any pre-made un-coated MDF covered in sponge like trunk liner carpet. Unless the raw driver is what you want and is a smokin deal.

[shawndoggy]

^^^^ agree that any driver will need to be put in proper box for boat.

[Levi900RR]

For sure, I was planning on building something under my helm anyway.

[Levi900RR]

http://burlington.craigslist.org/ele/4691803133.html

So cheap...

[MLA]

yes, unless you have a 5 channel amp that could cover one of the zones plus a sub. 3 amps is the traditional setup and most flexible. 5 channel amp has its place, but can tend to "lock you in" to a particular configuration.

Not sure i fallow how a 5 chnl would not work with some sort of EQ zone controller? Should be able to configure the RCAs so full range chnls heave a dedicated RCA signal and the sub chnl has a dedicated RCA signal, same as a 2 chassis setup.

@ the OP,

A typical 5 chnl would be a hybrid of a full range 4 chnl and a low-pass sub amp in a single chassis. They are great in the right application, but can be a limiting factor in terms of sub wattage. There are some great 6 chnl amps out there that offer a little more wattage for the sub. If you want a lot of bass or have more than 3 pair of in-boats to drive, 2 amps may be a better option.

[Levi900RR]

I honestly don't know where I'd even mount 3 amps.