Super basic Stereo upgrade

[Levi900RR]

OK guys I am a COMPLETE ROOKIE when it comes to stereo stuff.

This is what I have:

Stock Alpine head unit and cabin speakers that came in my 03 Sunscape LSV. There is a pretty good size amp under the helm that runs the cabin speakers (I think)

What I'm thinking of doing this winter is:

Upgrading the head unit to something that has a bluetooth input. I'd also like to add a transom remote.

Upgrading the cabin speakers to a "nice" set.

Adding tower speakers.

I dont care about hearing music while wakeboarding, the tower speakers are mainly going to be for when we are just hanging out swimming and MAYBE if I could do it without breaking the bank I'd like to be able to hear some tunes while surfing.

I'm going to start researching now as I don't plan on making any purchases right away, maybe this stuff could make it to my Christmas list. Either way next year I gotta have some better tunes.

I don't want to spend a TON of cash but I also don't want to buy junk.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

[Setter02]

Your current head unit may have a pair of aux output RCA's on the back. If it does, it would be very easy to wire in an aftermarket Bluetooth, saving you some money for the speakers. Wetsound's makes good tower speakers. If you are not experienced at installing stereo equipment, it can be tricky. I put an amp and tower speakers on my old supra and they sounded great until the engine was running. Then you could hear the alternator/spark plugs ticking and whining through the tower speakers. I tried filters, different grounds all sorts of Google fixes. In the end, I just unplugged them and did without. It might be worth having a professional do it, so you know it is done right or so that there is a warranty if it turns out poorly. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

[Levi900RR]

Good advice man, I know it has a mini jack aux input but I haven't crawled under it.

I'd really like to do the install myself just cause I really enjoy that part of a project. We'll see, I'm going to do a lot of reading on the subject.

One thing I forgot to mention, I am totally open to looking for used gear on ebay or CL. Just not really sure what to look for.

[Nitrousbird]

Name your budget.

[Bozboat]

Since you asked for "Rookie" and "Super Basic" and that describes my stuff, my two cents worth would be to consider skipping the head unit and using an equalizer like the WS420 or that other boat equalizer that is better and more expensive, put the blue tooth into the equalizer. The boat equalizer is what gives you better control over tower vs cabin vs sub. Head unit is really only needed for radio or cds, neither of which I use. Also, watch the crew classifieds, I have had good luck picking up stuff as the early adopters upgrade.

[Levi900RR]

I'd love to stay around $500 bucks.

I've been browsing around other threads and it looks like I really need a sub. Loving the idea of the powered baselink. I'm also liking the idea of keeping my head unit and just adding a BT adapter to it. I gotta find out if the amp I have is good enough for some better cabin speakers.

So if I keep my HU and amp for the cabin speakers I need

4 new cabin speakers

1 Powered base something

2 tower speakers

Amp for tower speakers

Think I can pull that off for 5-600? Like I said, I'd start watching CL and ebay for some used gear if I had a target.

[kstateskierMO]

I just upgraded mine for $503.

I kept my headunit. It isn't great but it isn't bad and I can plug my iphone right into the front using either USB or 3.5mm. Sound quality is negligible but the HU reads song titles, etc using USB.

I pulled out the stock crappy Sony 6.5s' and went with 2 sets of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SPXLJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I added a 4x400. This one actually... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2V3Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly I went down to my local stereo shop/installer and bought enough 4 guage wire for amp power/ground/ a nice inline fuse and some 12 guage speaker wire.

Happy with the system, its plenty loud and plenty crisp. Over the winter I'll add a sub which will balance out the system nicely. For the $503 I spent i was pretty happy with the results in my RLXI.

[robtr8]

We need to know what you have and what condition they are in. Might be worth keeping, might be worth scrapping. What is it about the existing system that isn't getting it done?

$500 isn't going to cut it for a tower system. Don't waste your time or dollars until you're ready to go big.

You don't mention having a sub. Adding one will help the overall sound tremendously, even if you're not a bass head.

This gets the BT taken care of, if you have the AUX inputs available: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cpEkdn6zfkV/p_822BTREC/Milennia-MIL-BTREC.html

[Levi900RR]

Im going down to the boat tonight, I'll grab some pics of the amp and speakers that are in it.

[Nitrousbird]

You are asking for a lot @ $500-$600. Sub, 4 in boats, 2 towers and amps to power them. That's a stretch even going the used route unless you start scoring junk.

- Used Basslink @ $100

- 4 in-boats, figure used decent sent at least $75/pair

- Used amp to run towers, at least $100

That leaves you $150 - $250 for tower speakers, Bluetooth adapter, and wiring. You are going to have to go pretty low end on those tower speakers or lower end on the in-boats. Don't discount the cost of wiring, terminals, power distribution blocks, fusing, etc...it all adds up quickly. And that's assuming what's currently installed doesn't need to be ripped out and redone (mine was a disaster - I replaced 100% of all wiring for my setup).

Opening your budget to $1000 will get you a lot better results. More money but your ears will hear the dollar difference. You'll hear more of a difference going from a $500 budget to $1000 than going from $1000 to $2000 (assuming same purchasing methods for each are enacted).

[Levi900RR]

Good advice man, as usual with boat stuff, I should probably just save some more cash and do it right the first time.

What do you think of these for tower speakers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan-Alpha-II-boat-tower-speakers-6x9-/221516551958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33936a5716

Also, do I need a marine specific basslink?

[Michigan boarder]

+1 on the $1000. You might come under a bit at $900, but the wiring alone adds up. I ran all new wires, fuses, etc just because I didn't want gremlins of the old stuff (1994) haunting me, and that was nearly $200. My simple little system (4 Polk DB's, 1 Basslink used, Alipine HU used, 1 reconditioned Boston Acoustics amp was over $700.

[Nitrousbird]

Good advice man, as usual with boat stuff, I should probably just save some more cash and do it right the first time.

What do you think of these for tower speakers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan-Alpha-II-boat-tower-speakers-6x9-/221516551958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33936a5716

Also, do I need a marine specific basslink?

No such thing as a marine specific Basslink. That said, my boat came with one that had been there for a while and I sold it working to another crew member.

Those Titan towers are not a good deal. The cans are rough looking and the speakers are both non-marine (not a good idea on a tower speaker that will end up seeing the elements) and everything I've seen in MB Quart's component lineup doesn't have much in terms of power handling.

[shawndoggy]

At your pricepoint I'd focus on power to your cabin speakers and a sub. Wait on the tower speakers till the cabin is dialed.

You may even find that once you can cross over your existing cabins a little higher and have the low end fill of a sub that your current speakers are satisfactory.

The basslink is "OK," but as a "do it right do it once" proposition, spending a little more for a dedicated amp to a 10 or 12 is ultimately the better "value." Something like a JL 600/1 and a sealed 12 would be probably $400 all-in.

[Levi900RR]

I've been thinking the same thing about the cabin speakers. I need to bring a CD down there so I can get some decent quality sound rather than just listening to the radio. I tried my iPhone with the mini jack last night and it was scratchy. Not sure if I have a bad cable or there is a loose terminal somewhere. That being said the cabin speakers don't suck, they just have NO bass, so they sound tiny.

[shawndoggy]

I've been thinking the same thing about the cabin speakers. I need to bring a CD down there so I can get some decent quality sound rather than just listening to the radio. I tried my iPhone with the mini jack last night and it was scratchy. Not sure if I have a bad cable or there is a loose terminal somewhere. That being said the cabin speakers don't suck, they just have NO bass, so they sound tiny.

you are describing precisely why a sub makes such a big difference, RIght now you are expecting those little speakers to do it all, and they can't. Let those speakers off the hook on the low lows, and let them work where they sound the best. A sub really is the foundation of the whole system.

[Texoma LSV]

2 words

Sub Woofer!

[Levi900RR]

Here's what I currently have:

[jb 156]

I am with everyone else add a sub in a box with a dedicated amp and save your pennies for a set of tower speakers and a 3rd amp.

[lonestar]

I too have a simple stereo setup, 4 in boats only- no bow speakers- no tower speakers. I followed the advice of the crew and bought a used amp and sub from Shawndoggy. Now my system is more than loud enough and clear enough for my needs. I added the bluetooth to my RFX3000 black box and everything works awesome. Anyone in the boat can play their music and the sub really made my in boats sound MUCH better as stated by others. All for less than $300.

Edited August 12, 2014 by lonestar

[robtr8]

Check the physical condition of the Infinity drivers. As long as the rubber surround is intact and the cones aren't dry-rotted, the best bang for the buck is to leave them be.

The JBL MR-22 HU has a sub out but I'm not sure about the AUX in, other than the mini-AUX. Overall, I'd say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. At some point you will need to step up to a WS-420SQ or ZLD II. A hotter preamp section will do wonders plus you'll need boat/tower control.

The JBL P80.4 is only 40 watts X 4. Pretty weak sauce compared to today's amps. I can see that it's set to "HP" but I can't see what "FREQ" it's set to. Could be that the amp's high pass filter is just set high like, 100Hz or more and the drivers just aren't getting any bass signal at all. Not a terrible thing if you have a sub but definitely could explain your current situation.

There are some great subs out there that should be available on CL. Look for a Kicker 05S8L5 or any Alpine Type R 8 or 10" that hasn't been beat to sh*t.

I wouldn't get a used sub amp. The newer technology plus a warranty is worth the price of admission. I know a lot of the guys like the new PPI stuff but I prefer the new Pioneer GM digitals, the GM-D8601 or GM-D9601.

You're going to need RCA's, fuse and grounding blocks, power/ground wire, remote turn on wire, speaker wire and last but not least, a sheet of quality 13 ply Baltic Birch to build the sub box. That's your $500+ right there.

[iwski]

lonestar,

Which Bluetooth did you add to your black box? I have the same year boat and stereo as the OP. Last summer I upgraded to the RFX5000 and wanted to add the Bluetooth dongle for that unit, but the reviews are bad so I'm looking for an alternative. Thanks

[dalt1]

lonestar,

Which Bluetooth did you add to your black box? I have the same year boat and stereo as the OP. Last summer I upgraded to the RFX5000 and wanted to add the Bluetooth dongle for that unit, but the reviews are bad so I'm looking for an alternative. Thanks

Same here, RFX3000 and wondering about Bluetooth connectivity.

Edited August 12, 2014 by dalt1

[lonestar]

I added the Millenia Bluetooth dongle to my RFX3000. Works great. Range is limited to in boat.

[dalt1]

What wire does it plug in to on black box? If you remember.