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Standard Rockford sub woofer


ozsurf

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Hey guys

I don't know much about sound systems can I get some help please ?

When we ordered our boat (2013 VLX) we got the standard Rockford system with 4 speakers 2 in walkway and 2 in side pockets the speakers were mxz upgrades and thought it would do us but now find it lacking in bass, can I just add a sub woofer or is there more to it than that.

I don't want to go over the top just something to give the sound some depth.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Cheers

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I'm not a basshead, meaning I don't want my system defined by bass, but I couldn't live without the foundation that a subwoofer brings in a boat, not to mention the lost octave or more of music.

Besides a few cables, to add a subwoofer you will need the sub driver, an external amplifier, and an enclosure designed to match up with the sub and fit the under helm cavity. The enclosure is where most of the effort is but the enclosure will make or break the bass performance so don't overlook the importance of getting that portion right.

Also, if your present set-up doesn't have an external amplifier, then when you add a subwoofer you should definitely add external amplification to drive the fullrange coaxials....even in a family boat where the goal isn't over the top. If you don't have an external amplifier now you can accomplish this with a single-chassis 5-channel amplifier.

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Although it says that you are not allowed to adjust the amp, that is all you would need to do. My dealer did it for me on my new 2014 and sounds much better. I had a 2011 that the bass sounded great (for the stock system) on and when I got my '14 it sounded like the sub wasn't turned on. A little adjustment and it was all good again.

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Hey guys

I have done some investigations and found out some info on what I actually got which is a RFX5000 with 6.5 M2 speakers.

The unit under the dash that I thought was an amplifier is the head unit (told you I didn't know much about sound systems) so it appears I was talked into a speaker upgrade with out enough power from the head unit to power them ? Would I be on the right track now ?

The head unit is 4 x 50W but the speakers are 4 x 150W.

Should I down grade the speakers or add a amp ?

Cheers and thanks again for your help.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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ozsurf,

I would go 5-channels to drive the sub and four coaxial satellites.

Keep in mind that the 150 watt speaker rating is the 'power handling' and not necessarily a 'required power' level. However, more power will continue to make a difference.

The primary issue is that the HU rating of 4 X 50 watts, as with virtually all HUs, is an extremely wishful and liberal rating. Consider this to me more like 4 X 15 to 20 watts across the audible bandwidth. So any good external amplifier with an honest 4 X 75 watts for example will be a dramatic upgrade....with a ceiling of 150 watts per speaker. Also, when you "highpass" the interior coaxials (meaning that you are removing the low bass content that they will not play anyway) you have made the external amplifier power appear even stronger.

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Hey guys

Thanks again, I know this is very basic stuff for you guys and I appreciate your time.

At least now I have a basic idea on how the system works and when I read your other threads it's not all going straight over my head.

Is it a good idea to stay with the same brand (Rockford fosgate) or is mixing no problem , In terms of compatibility , ease of fitting and resale of boat latter on ?

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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ozsurf,

I little mix of quality brands should not impact the resale, fit or interface, but on the other hand I cannot give you a reason why you should avoid the Rockford Fosgate brand. RF is a fairly broad line so you should have no trouble finding the applicational products to build your system within the RF line.

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No issue using six coaxials on four channels of an external amplifier if 4-ohm speakers, which is the norm.

Two channels will have two speakers each in parallel. The key is which four speakers to combine on two channels.

Based on speaker positional dis/advantages relative to the front cockpit listeners (driver and observer), the two speaker outputs most similar will be combined leaving the most dissimilar isolated on their own two channels. This way you can best match the speaker levels via the amplifier input gains.

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That would definitely work.

Although not a marine amplifier, I do like the 4 X 75 watts (@ 4-ohm) power of the P1000X5.

Thanks David

I take it not having marine amplifier a necessity ?

Would give me a lot more choices.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Well, I would still consider a marine amplifier a necessity in a coastal or brackish area where you have corrosive salt air or other elements (lake in a quarry perhaps). I also would want any fan-cooled amplifier to be conformal coated.

But marine amplifiers just have coated circuit boards and are not potted/sealed. So if any amplifier, including a marine amplifier, is exposed to water directly while current is flowing through it - it's more often toast. In fresh water areas a majority go with automotive amplifiers with no issue over a five year span. You still have to be aware of overhead drink holders and vents that could drain water over the electronics in the event of a roller over the bow or getting caught in a driven rain. While marine amplifiers do offer more protection you're still not off the hook for a well-planned installation. Most Class D amplifiers have a chassis that is pretty well sealed and I believe that is the most important issue. Aim all the terminals down.

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