engine storage tray(pizza pan)

[h2ojunkie]

Some thin wide tubular aluminum strips on each side of motor spark arrestor shield end to end should help. I was also hoping mine could be "walk thru proof" as well. Maybe even "H" grid around the arrestor shroud w the tubular aluminum could stabilize it enough to make it rigid and "step proof" it. Just throwing ideas out there to ya. Hoping to get mine done soon as well so watching yours close. (PM sent as well to ya)

[The Hulk]

I'm wondering if I would actually lift up one side every time to have the walk through

[Chia]

seems to me the tray is notched or something at the pylon.

won't aluminum stress if walked on. how much bounce back properties does aluminum have?

[The Hulk]

Aluminum will bounce back within a certain range if I wanted to walk In it a center beam in the middle maybe 1x1 or 0.5x0.5 tube would be all that's needed or it could be done under it

[justgary]

What are the main dimensions of your tray, Hulk?

[bcf2003]

I don't know if this is the right one or size but saw it and thought of this post.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261786144035

[The Hulk]

thanks a ton for the pic!

yea i'm not sure why the dealer and everyone has told me the tray wont work in my boat, my aluminum one is 4" front and back. but i see from the photos its 5" deep in the front but i think i do have 5" at the very front and my engine highest point "coolant cap" is 4.5" and that is towards the back so i bet the normal tray with the taper would work just fine.

anyhow since everyone said it would not ..... i'll finish my aluminum one which will be stronger for not much more and i wont have to worry about it breaking if someone or myself step in it and i should bet more storage being 4" all the way through. as mentioned mine is 0.125" thick and i may make a second at .090 if i think mine is too strong or heavy for my liking

I talked to the shop guy building mine he said its no problem to taper them front-back instead it would be bent front to back, vs side to side if that make sense, for example my front/back will be welded in but if you had a taper design it would be the sides welded in. etc

i'll plan to offer the aluminum ones or custom ones in the range of $125-175 depending on thickness .125" or .090 and powder coated or not etc.. (currently a rough estimate)

Edited March 3, 2015 by The Hulk

[The Hulk]

Does anyone know if these trays restrict airflow to the engines? seems like they would, i mean these engines would need a lot of air, and looking at the design of the boats you have two side walls for the ballast bags and then throwing a tray on top, how does enough air get into the engine? did some reading online and restricting air-flow can cause a good amount of power loss, as well as CO2/smoke etc..

[robbennett]

Should be a tube that runs from under the windshield to the engine compartment. Also through the blower hoses and the vents at the back corners. I'd be interested to know if the engine is ever starving for air though.

[The Hulk]

I just checked yes the "vents" on back sides of the boat with the "screens" are fiber glass pockets and connected to the 4" or so flexible tubing that just goes into engine compartment. I did some research and id be willing to bet that at 9-11mph surfing speed that there is enough air-flow into the area. 10mph with a bow rise wont be getting a lot of air in from front, and moving forward isnt "ramming" air into the back pockets either. Which means the engine at SURF speeds is most likely having to SUCK it in rather than have it there. I'm going to buy two 4" blowers, and see if i can do a test with and without to see if emissions are less and any added power, my situation "might" be different given the super charger air vs non SC engine. my idea is to have the fans turn ON as soon as the ignition or engine is on. Reverse them so they suck air in rather than blow out. will create a separate post for this.

[oldjeep]

I just checked yes the "vents" on back sides of the boat with the "screens" are fiber glass pockets and connected to the 4" or so flexible tubing that just goes into engine compartment. I did some research and id be willing to bet that at 9-11mph surfing speed that there is enough air-flow into the area. 10mph with a bow rise wont be getting a lot of air in from front, and moving forward isnt "ramming" air into the back pockets either. Which means the engine at SURF speeds is most likely having to SUCK it in rather than have it there. I'm going to buy two 4" blowers, and see if i can do a test with and without to see if emissions are less and any added power, my situation "might" be different given the super charger air vs non SC engine. my idea is to have the fans turn ON as soon as the ignition or engine is on. Reverse them so they suck air in rather than blow out. will create a separate post for this.

If you try to make the air suck in through the back vents then where is all the hot air from the engine compartment going to exit?

[The Hulk]

Tray is finished: (Except Powder Coating) might make it white or black. depending on if i can catch a run they are doing and whats cheapest since i only have 1pcs.

a few places on the tray i have buffed out a few scratches that i thought "might" show through the paint

1.25" or (1/8")

Weight 15.80 Lbs

Fitting a 2013 23lsv with LSA 555hp Engine

This tray fits like a glove! i will add some Edge Trim to the back side,

corners are cut at angle to allow water out, and the back wall has a few extra notches near the center to allow water to run out.

I may add some cabinet handles to the side so i can easily pull out, depends how many people ask to see the engine after a while =)

IN CASE ANYONE WANTS TO WALK IN THE TRAY: NO PROBLEM !!

I am 220 lbs and have a photo showing me standing with 1-foot in the tray (dead center tray) "shoe size 12" if anyone wants to get displacement technical on me.

we put a straight edge in the tray and when i step in the tray with 1-foot the flex is 0.25", and if i really step in it quickly the max i can flex it is 3/8" and then it comes back up to 0.25" with one foot in the tray. two feet its about .20" or less when i step out of the tray it springs back and does not flex enough to remain dented.

I'm happy with it and if you want to step in it or have people who would then .125" is what you want, if you want to make it lighter and easier to handle with the "potential" of someone stepping inside then i can make it from .090" for you, and if you want lighter yet possibly thinner yet. Each Step thinner might say $5-10 i don't exactly know yet until the shop guy calculates how many he can make from an 8ft or 10ft or 12ft sheet.

[The Hulk]

tray

[The Hulk]

tray2

[The Hulk]

220 lbs on 1-foot (shoe size 12)

0.25" flex at center

max flex with a quick step is 3/8" and then comes up to 0.25" after weight has settled.

[h2ojunkie]

WOW Nice job man. Now that's step proof. Nice work.

[The Hulk]

another for fun

[robbennett]

Looks awesome man! Have you considered polishing it instead of paint?

[The Hulk]

no, to much work, not sure if i have enough beer for that job =)