Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

New hitch and "over the limit towing" feedback


nyryan2001

Recommended Posts

Ok so for Christmas I got a quality hitch whose rating well exceeds my loads. 10k lb hitch for an approx 8500lb tow. Truck has somewhere around 10k towing rating as long as you don't bust your tongue limits.

For the last 7yrs I've towed with one of the 6k max tri-ball setups and a cheapie locking pin. Towed my first boat, maybe 5k, a heavy loaded 247 approx 7500lbs, and now last 2 approx 8500lbs. Yes I know it exceeded the hitch capacity.... But I'm sure I'm not the only one out there having done it. 247s, 22/24MXZs, the new 23s will all easily bust the common 6k hitch ratings making you go hunt down and shell out for a quality hitch. It's also one of those things that's never high on the spend list: "hey, wow, next $200 I'm getting a quality hitch..." Never seems to happen.

Couple observations:

Ball mount. There was an approx 1/16" indent around the lower end of the ball towards the front where the weight of the boat wore on the ball over time. No indications of pending ball failure... But no doubt that added to extra slack and wiggle in the setup..you don't want that extra 1/16" of space in there.. Allowing more extreme loads being applied due to the space and resulting "yanks and pulls" from that space where speed builds till it makes contact....which exaggerated the already over the limit loads. Not sure if that's from towing 2500 over the limit... But something to consider and inspect.

Locking pin. This what you see here is one of those standard stainless locking pins. I haven't touched it in probably 3yrs... Never really had a reason to. Today when I went out to put the new hitch on it took me almost 30 mins of hammer beating, WD40 and torch to get it to release. What I am getting at is if you are gonna use one of these locking pins you need to add it to your maintenance schedule. Prob twice a year, before and after each season, remove, wipe down, and completely fill the inside with WD40. Neglect this and you'll find a major PITA when you don't have time for it. This is going in the trash.

6BA840BA-5982-4BB4-A5FE-DB5A114F50AC-190

A225F57F-5860-496D-A603-DA5F004310C9-190

F3849BE6-8AAA-4E11-BC09-653BC1ACF438-190

Link to comment

So are you looking for feedback? Not sure from the post and the statements.

The ball rating is heavily driven by the threaded bolt that goes through the draw bar. The size and strength of this more critical than the ball itself. That interface between the ball and that bolt is where the part will shear. I have never seen a ball fail anywhere but at that interface.

I buy the highest rated ball and locking pin i can get for the size hitch i have. Extra safety and security. Losing a trailer at the ramp or on the road is an ugly thing.

Lastly, i remove my draw bar after every trip. Why have it sticking out to get hit or kicked, or to weld into place. I always check the pin, the bar and the ball when i re-install.

A year ago i had a brake fail and wheel lock up (tandem trailer) when cruising about 65. The jolt on the hitch was enough to make a 1/8" indent into the receiver bar as the trailer jerked to one side. I replaced the bar, the ball and the lock pin and trashed the old one.

Link to comment

Yes, I greased it a few times, not as regularly as I should have... What you are seeing there is not having reapplied grease in about 4 months... And not having towed with it for about 2 months.

No, I'm not looking for feedback. Just sharing feedback on a topic numerous folks on here skirt the line on.... Real feedback where I was towing 2500 or so above the ball mount limits.... And the real no BS effects I observed. Hopefully it saves someone some trouble.

Link to comment

As far as the locking pin is concerned, same goes with the pin that holds your trailer spare locked in place. My first boat had the trailer spare minted under the trailer, and when it time to use it, could not get to it. Of course the fact I used the boat in salt didn't help, but still, grease and wd 40 regularly

Can't contribute to the towing aspect

Link to comment

It's a good thing to bring to everyone's attention. Lots of boats are over the limit of the common 6k hitch setup. In reality, most 6k hitches are capable of towing 2x their limit for years without issue...... Right up until the point where that hitch takes a shock well above normal operating limits.

Sudden stops, accidents, or having to perform sudden maneuvers, are the points in which they will fail. Right when it is the most important for them to stay together.

Link to comment

I have a pet peeve about leaving the hitch bar on the vehicle when not in use. I guess I have knocked my knee on more than one, and that contributes to the cause. It's even worse when I do it and it isn't mine!!

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Boz- Just replaced the ball and mount. The polished aluminum you see. That's the same black HD hitch that came OEM.

When I bought the truck in 2010 it was rated at 11,400 or something... Since then different ratings, different standards...changing constantly from 9400-11,000lbs.

Link to comment

On the GMC and Chevs that I had the sticker on the hitch said max 6000 and 500 pound tongue weight or something like that, way less than truck tow capacity . Pretty sure the hitch on my F150 is rated about the same despite the 11000 pound or so tow cap. I'm sure your better off with the higher stinger than before but since you brought this up it's got me wondering how the hitch itself is holding up and what it was rated for.

I think some of the new 3/4 ton diesels have a larger hitch and use a larger mount like 3" or so.

Edited by Bozboat
Link to comment

Fairly certain the new SAE J2807 Tundra tow rating of 9500 is a regular tow.... Just can't exceed the tongue or combined weight.

The previous 11k rating I know was with WDH and sway control bar, electric brakes.

Link to comment

Fairly certain the new SAE J2807 Tundra tow rating of 9500 is a regular tow.... Just can't exceed the tongue or combined weight.

The previous 11k rating I know was with WDH and sway control bar, electric brakes.

I have the idea that my truck has a tow rate of 11,000 or so, but the factory hitch (without a weight distributing receiver) is 5000/500. In other words the factory trailer hitch is rated at less than half what the truck is rated to handle.

Edited by Bozboat
Link to comment

I have the idea that my truck has a tow rate of 11,000 or so, but the factory hitch (without a weight distributing receiver) is 5000/500. In other words the factory trailer hitch is rated at less than half what the truck is rated to handle.

Not sure that's accurate Boz.

Using a weight distributing hitch... Still puts 100% of the weight on your OEM factory receiver, and only on your receiver... It just tilts the hitch up and forward using torsion bars to put some of the weight on the forward tires vs all of it on the back tires with a huge squat. None of this ever sense to me till I got into RVs about 5yrs ago.... And I towed 10k RV on this truck using a WDH and a Sway bar.

So no, your hitch receiver is fully capable of handling 11k in every way.... What you see in the disparity in your ratings is Ford saying that the SUSPENSION can not handle over 5k on the rear tires alone the way that particular truck is equipped.... Needs to be more evenly distributed to the front tires to exceed 5k.

Link to comment

I had a very heavy duty WD hitch that I used to use for towing my SW boat (about 10.5 K loaded). The hitch does what it's supposed to do and does maintain a fairly smooth ride. I put air bags on and eventually sold the hitch. I liked towing better with the bags and felt the ride was better. I also liked how I could fine tune the hitch height and amount of stiffness. Both set-ups work very well. I also ditched the factory hitch and went with a class V with a 2.5" receiver.

Edited by Zombie
Link to comment

Good info and agree 100% with the distribution bars, they make a huge difference. We have always used a "brake bar" or "sway bar" also on our car trailers, the two make a big difference in towing feel. I have had one of those locking pins seize up in a few months before with grease under the rubber cap, of course it was in the winter, had to cut it off.

Link to comment

the guys with the aluminum adjust hitches should check them regularly i had on that the ball section came loose and fell off from the lock popping out of the aluminum. good thing it stayed on the chains nicely with no damage. we had them on 5 of our trucks and eventually all either seized/damaged beyond repair and 2 the locks fell out one had a tralier on the other was stowed behind out of the way and it was run over by another car

Link to comment

This one I have here is an anti-rattle version... With an internal integrated locking pin.... And matched key lock for the height adjustment, 4" drop or rise... $190 I believe off Etrailer.com.

Also, big benefit for me on this was previously the ball wasn't visible using the rear view camera... Too close. Now that 4" rise bracket is very visible, will make hooking up a little easier.

Link to comment

http://www.got-chrome.com/p-14435-ts10048b-bw-tow-stow-adjustable-tri-ball-mount-receiver-hitch.aspx

This is the one I have with a 5 inch drop or raise. Model 8 with tri-ball. Im sure you could find a better price if you searched. I think I payed less at Tennessee Speed Sport (might have to call them its not on their site). Says it weighs 31lbs!!

Edited by TNWILSON
  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...