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Toyota Frame Recall


Levi900RR

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Why do you have to replace the timing belt so early on Toyotas...I have a GMC with 200,000 miles and the only reason we changed out the timing belt was b/c we were in there swaping out the oil pump.

Why do you change the water pump prior to it showing any signs of leaking or failure. On my GM it would take me less than an hour to change out the water pump and did it 160,000 miles.

I get that you guys rave about these trucks....but they get the worst gas mileage of any 1/2 ton V/8 pickup and the maintaince schedule is a joke. And you pay more them too!!!!

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During my 2 minute search, I believe there are two versions of the 4.7L, one being an interference motor and one being a non-interference motor. Non you can run it till the belt breaks, no big deal. Interference - when that belt breaks you can only hope it "just" bends valves and doesn't crack your pistons.

OMG, $1400 for parts and labor. I took a quick look at the DIY guide; should take 3-5 hours in your driveway. Unless you make $200/hour, how can it possibly be a smart financial move to have the dealer do it? Even if it takes all day, I can tell you my day is worth $1200 in cash!

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Why do you have to replace the timing belt so early on Toyotas...I have a GMC with 200,000 miles and the only reason we changed out the timing belt was b/c we were in there swaping out the oil pump.

Why do you change the water pump prior to it showing any signs of leaking or failure. On my GM it would take me less than an hour to change out the water pump and did it 160,000 miles.

What GM motor were you working on that had a timing belt? I assume not a V8, as I don't believe any GM V8 has ever had a timing belt.

The reason you change a timing belt on an interference motor is why I stated in my above post. You change the water pump at the same time because it is ran by the timing belt and requires you to remove the belt in order to change it. Would sure suck to have it go out right after doing the belt swap. It is common practive to replace the water pump on any vehicle with a timing belt during the swap.

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What GM motor were you working on that had a timing belt? I assume not a V8, as I don't believe any GM V8 has ever had a timing belt.

The reason you change a timing belt on an interference motor is why I stated in my above post. You change the water pump at the same time because it is ran by the timing belt and requires you to remove the belt in order to change it. Would sure suck to have it go out right after doing the belt swap. It is common practive to replace the water pump on any vehicle with a timing belt during the swap.

my 2001 tahoe had a timing belt or chain. can replace water pump without opening up engine

Edited by Murphy8166
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my 2001 tahoe had a timing belt or chain. can replace water pump without opening up engine

It had a timing chain, which is vastly different than a belt, although serves the same function.

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I must have missed the part where anyone was raving about Toyotas in this thread... I own a Tundra, i do like it, I don't have anything against other trucks. I in no way wanted this thread to turn into a ford vs Chevy debate...

Buy the truck you want, don't hate on anyone else for making a different decision.

For real....hasn't the whole Ford Chevy Toyota thing been beat to death 50 or 60 times?

I own a Sequoia of Levis vintage, and I am curious to see the progress, and to hear about the results, of the 'overhaul'.

Can we please just stick to that in this thread?

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Chill the puck out!!!!!!! You guys are getting worked up over nothing. Not making it a brand war just trying to understand why everyone likes the soooo much when they are clearly a little more cumbersome and costly to maintain.

That's all - now please untwist your shorts and chive on!!!!

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Sounds good.....shirts on....

I didn't know my Sequoia had a timing belt....Oops. I don't know why I never checked. And I have 165K on the odometer. Guess I need to look into that...though I only drive that truck to play softball 20 times a year so I don't get my car dirty. So I learned that from this thread.

And I am most curious about the Bilsteins. My shocks are original, and probably shot, so I'd like to hear how they work out.

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my 2001 tahoe had a timing belt or chain. can replace water pump without opening up engine

Chain. Water pumps typically are not driven by a timing chain; in your case it is the normal accessory belt driven water pump. Not all SBC's are belt driven water pumps though - the GEN-II SBC is actually driven by the timing chain.

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Sounds good.....shirts on....

I didn't know my Sequoia had a timing belt....Oops. I don't know why I never checked. And I have 165K on the odometer. Guess I need to look into that...though I only drive that truck to play softball 20 times a year so I don't get my car dirty. So I learned that from this thread.

And I am most curious about the Bilsteins. My shocks are original, and probably shot, so I'd like to hear how they work out.

Google around for Bilstein 5100's

EDIT: If you want a set, ajusa.com has the best price. (at least when I was searching a few weeks ago)

Edited by Levi900RR
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During my 2 minute search, I believe there are two versions of the 4.7L, one being an interference motor and one being a non-interference motor. Non you can run it till the belt breaks, no big deal. Interference - when that belt breaks you can only hope it "just" bends valves and doesn't crack your pistons.

OMG, $1400 for parts and labor. I took a quick look at the DIY guide; should take 3-5 hours in your driveway. Unless you make $200/hour, how can it possibly be a smart financial move to have the dealer do it? Even if it takes all day, I can tell you my day is worth $1200 in cash!

I stand corrected, I just called my dealer for kicks... $574.10 to replace timing belt, $1134.69 to replacing timing belt and water pump. Last year I was quoted $1400, maybe it depends on who you talk to in the service department.

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Why do you have to replace the timing belt so early on Toyotas...I have a GMC with 200,000 miles and the only reason we changed out the timing belt was b/c we were in there swaping out the oil pump.

Why do you change the water pump prior to it showing any signs of leaking or failure. On my GM it would take me less than an hour to change out the water pump and did it 160,000 miles.

I get that you guys rave about these trucks....but they get the worst gas mileage of any 1/2 ton V/8 pickup and the maintaince schedule is a joke. And you pay more them too!!!!

Toyota recommends the belt change at 90k miles, its probably a scam... I have been reading online with people over 160k miles on the same belt with no issues. And you are correct about horrible gas mileage, my sequoia gets about 12-13 mpg around town and 15-16 on the freeway. I do like the rig, after 10 years of ownership its a pretty solid vehicle, also pulls the VLX pretty good for a 4.7L engine. I know someone with same vehicle pulling a MXZ with good results as well. When towing mileage drops to about 8-9 MPG.

Edited by Fman
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During my 2 minute search, I believe there are two versions of the 4.7L, one being an interference motor and one being a non-interference motor. Non you can run it till the belt breaks, no big deal. Interference - when that belt breaks you can only hope it "just" bends valves and doesn't crack your pistons.

OMG, $1400 for parts and labor. I took a quick look at the DIY guide; should take 3-5 hours in your driveway. Unless you make $200/hour, how can it possibly be a smart financial move to have the dealer do it? Even if it takes all day, I can tell you my day is worth $1200 in cash!

Any idea to tell which 4.7L you have in the vehicle?

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During my 2 minute search, I believe there are two versions of the 4.7L, one being an interference motor and one being a non-interference motor. Non you can run it till the belt breaks, no big deal. Interference - when that belt breaks you can only hope it "just" bends valves and doesn't crack your pistons.

OMG, $1400 for parts and labor. I took a quick look at the DIY guide; should take 3-5 hours in your driveway. Unless you make $200/hour, how can it possibly be a smart financial move to have the dealer do it? Even if it takes all day, I can tell you my day is worth $1200 in cash!

Simple answer. If you don't know what your doing it won't take 3-5 hours. Likely much longer. Inexperienced people commonly get it wrong causing further heartache when they learn the get to rebuild their heads.

Why make a big deal out of this? Tackle the job if your comfortable,but otherwise leave it to the pro's. Not everyone is as Pro as you nitrous.

  • Like 3
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Toyota recommends the belt change at 90k miles, its probably a scam... I have been reading online with people over 160k miles on the same belt with no issues. And you are correct about horrible gas mileage, my sequoia gets about 12-13 mpg around town and 15-16 on the freeway. I do like the rig, after 10 years of ownership its a pretty solid vehicle, also pulls the VLX pretty good for a 4.7L engine. I know someone with same vehicle pulling a MXZ with good results as well. When towing mileage drops to about 8-9 MPG.

I would be careful stating this advice over the internet. Someone takes your word for gospel, pushes their belt to long and has a failure. Costly mistake.

If your the proud owner of some VW/ Audi vehicles the timing belt could fail BEFORE the published service interval. Wonderful huh?

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Levi, Once you get it back and done you may want to look into Fluid Film undercoating. Some people have been using it around here for a few years and it seems to work.

I'm ordering a kit of Fluid Film with the gun and other goodies as well as 2 gallons of the fluid. After doing some research it seems like the way to fly for the salted roads around here. I always oil undercoat my vehicles and it works OK. Little surface rust in the fall I hit with a wire wheel and then have it re-coated. The local place that applies it wants $200 to do it and a kit with the gun is $124 and it comes with enough to spray my truck twice.....easy decision. I'll make my own fogging wand for doing inside the doors/hood/rockers.

EDIT....just got a kit with a "Pro Gun" as well as a 36" fogger wand with a gallon of Film, and aresol touch up can, couple quart containers for spraying, etc for $112 shipped. I'll report back after the "X" gets it's first coat.

  • Like 2
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I'm ordering a kit of Fluid Film with the gun and other goodies as well as 2 gallons of the fluid. After doing some research it seems like the way to fly for the salted roads around here. I always oil undercoat my vehicles and it works OK. Little surface rust in the fall I hit with a wire wheel and then have it re-coated. The local place that applies it wants $200 to do it and a kit with the gun is $124 and it comes with enough to spray my truck twice.....easy decision. I'll make my own fogging wand for doing inside the doors/hood/rockers.

EDIT....just got a kit with a "Pro Gun" as well as a 36" fogger wand with a gallon of Film, and aresol touch up can, couple quart containers for spraying, etc for $112 shipped. I'll report back after the "X" gets it's first coat.

Or move to the west coast.....priceless. :)

  • Like 1
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I would do the belt pump myself if the dealer wasn't already going to have the engine out...

MKB, thanks for the heads up. I am getting some sort of rust proofing for sure. I have been averaging about 7K miles a year so I hope to keep this truck another 7-10 years.

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