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At what Temps do you really start to consider Winterization.....


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Usually... 99% full = when I start to hear gurgling but before the nozzle clicks.

I have had a full topped off tank expand and leak out the air vent from temp changes.

Last year I had a full tank of treated fuel stolen/drained out of the 247 at my storage facility. I suspect it was a welder guy stores his trailer there with a dually with external fuel tank that's gas for his generators, not diesel.

Not this year though... Might be moving back to the east coast over Christmas.... I'd rather not have the extra 500lbs on an already heavy haul.

So when you winterize, you will store how much fuel? Would recommend it?

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Skied on Saturday, gorgeous day. Air temps in the mid 60s, water temp was around 53. Drained everything & wiped the boat down at the ramp in about 15 min. Then covered it & plugged in the heater & charger when we got home.

Sunday the wind blew in a nasty storm. High wind warning, leaves everywhere, and this morning it snowed. And to cap it off, we had a power outage. Good thing we're not relying on the power completely.

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Skied on Saturday, gorgeous day. Air temps in the mid 60s, water temp was around 53. Drained everything & wiped the boat down at the ramp in about 15 min. Then covered it & plugged in the heater & charger when we got home.

Sunday the wind blew in a nasty storm. High wind warning, leaves everywhere, and this morning it snowed. And to cap it off, we had a power outage. Good thing we're not relying on the power completely.

Drained everything in 15 minutes...block on both sides, hose leading from exhaust manifolds, hose from raw water pump? Anything I miss? You also buttoned everything back up? You don't do the antifreeze?

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Same here Bill. We were out Sun water 50, air 45. I drained everything in the parking lot before pulling out so it would drain out of the bilge on the tow home....took 5 min, but I don't have a v-drive - just a 3 outlet heater. It was 28 this morning and a few more nights this week look similar so I was glad I did. IMO it's too easy to ever risk a cold night with water.

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Drained everything in 15 minutes...block on both sides, hose leading from exhaust manifolds, hose from raw water pump? Anything I miss? You also buttoned everything back up? You don't do the antifreeze?

Good job. See it's not that tough. Now get some sleep. :salute:

I don't do the anti-freeze. I don't button it back up till I'm ready to run the boat. And I also bump start the engine to blow it out.

Same here Bill. We were out Sun water 50, air 45. I drained everything in the parking lot before pulling out so it would drain out of the bilge on the tow home....took 5 min, but I don't have a v-drive - just a 3 outlet heater. It was 28 this morning and a few more nights this week look similar so I was glad I did. IMO it's too easy to ever risk a cold night with water.

Wow, first person to break the 100 degree rule this year! :rockon:

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Good job. See it's not that tough. Now get some sleep. :salute:

I don't do the anti-freeze. I don't button it back up till I'm ready to run the boat. And I also bump start the engine to blow it out.

Wow, first person to break the 100 degree rule this year! :rockon:

Sorry, it was a question. I have my boat inside a heated structure. I won't be draining anything right now, maybe a practice run...

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Sorry, it was a question. I have my boat inside a heated structure. I won't be draining anything right now, maybe a practice run...

Gotcha. Yes, I drained the block on both sides, disconnected the shower at 3 places, pulled the caps off the heater hoses, disconnected the exhaust hoses, pulled 2 hull drain plugs, cycled the ballast pumps a number of times & bump start the engine for a second or two. Takes me maybe 5 min to do it all. I don't button it up till I'm ready to put the boat back in the water. No anti-freeze.

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Drained everything in 15 minutes...block on both sides, hose leading from exhaust manifolds, hose from raw water pump? Anything I miss? You also buttoned everything back up? You don't do the antifreeze?

vdrive? (some can get away with pulling raw water hose from vdrive, others require removal of drain plugs).

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OK, I just did my first "quick" winterization... Let's star with the vdrive. Cranked on the drain plugs for about 30 min. The one in the front finally came out, back one wouldn't budge. The back one had fresh paint on them like it had never been touched. Hopefully one was enough. Got the trans cooler no problem. Then on to the water pump hose. Again don't think this has ever been removed, and still hasn't. Had to move on it was getting dark. Got the manifold quick coupler no prob then on to the block. Knock sensor removed, petcock opened, done. I was trying to follow the winterization guide from this site, but it seems like the dealer hasn't been doing all of it. Is the guide over kill?

I say it is, all I do is pull the block knock sensor and plug, the manifold quick disconnect and the intake hose off the water pump and push it down into the bilge. My vdrive doesn't hold water, it drains out the raw water intake. And I pull the impeller if this would be the last winterization for the year.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well I finally drained my block and the exhaust manifolds with the quick disconnect. The 2013 350 Monsoon has where once you pull the bolt for the knock sensor the water from the block starts to drain. No need to pull the big plugs that are actually screwed into the block. I don't know what this is called. I did both sides of the block. I also drained the exhaust manifolds with that wrap around hose with the quick disconnect. I turned on the engine twice for about two seconds each time and a little more water trickled out of the block holes.

I hope my Johnson impellar is OK. I also pulled a few hoses, but no more water. Could not pull the hose that leads to the transmission on the very bottom. Has the same one on the other side. Just would not move.

I will do the antifreeze in the near future. Hopefully my engine is OK for now. Looking for some warmer days in December.

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Could not pull the hose that leads to the transmission on the very bottom. Has the same one on the other side. Just would not move.

Hit it with your purse Afun... you aren't done till you drain the vdrive.

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Hit it with your purse Afun... you aren't done till you drain the vdrive.

One or both hoses? I will get to it. Please explain the process of running anti freeze thought the boat? So far.....get a fake a lake the bucket apparatus with the that's lead to the fake a lake. Turn on engine and place the bucket up high for gravity to help it. Run a couple of gallons through until you see pink in coming out of the exhaust.

I WAS TOLD I HAVE TO MOVE THE T-STAT PRIOR TO RUNNING ANTIFREEZE THROUGH THE BOAT....Is this true?

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Just pour the af in one of the hoses on the top of the motor. If you must use AF. No need to run engine.

That's unique too. I am more comfortable with using the fake a lake.

T stat needs to be removed or not?

How about those two hoses that lead to the transmission. Important to drain? One or two?

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Pour it in through the heater hose outlet on the intake...MUCH easier and you don't have to worry about the thermostat either.

I need a picture for this one. I don't have heater so you may mean something else.

Anyone on the hoses that lead to the transmission?

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the hoses to the transmission (smaller, like 1" or less) are full of tranny fluid. Those hoses run from the tranny to the tranny cooler and have hydraulic nut type fittings. Those do not need to be drained (obviously).

The raw water intake hose that runs from the through hull on the bottom of your boat, into the vdrive, and then out the other side to the tranny cooler and raw water pump (where you find the impeller) DOES need to be drained. Easiest way is to remove the hose on the outlet side of the vdrive at the elbow. Just loosen the hose clamp and yank the hose off of the elbow. Sometimes the hose will need a bit of encouragement with a pick or screwdriver because it sort of seals to whatever it's clamped to.

As for filling with antifreeze, let's first remember it's an unnecessary step.

Now I'm not sure how pulling a hose from the tstat and pouring the antifreeze seems harder than removing the tstat housing, removing the tstat, reinstalling the housing, rigging up a bucket with antifreeze to a fake a lake and then running the motor? You are going to have to take the hoses off the top of the motor to get the tstat housing off anyway, eh?

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ahopkins22LSV

The Monsoon 350 should have a square bolt plug on the side of the water pump I believe. It is labeled "From Heater" There is also the "To Heater" plug on top of the water pump. Not sure which greg2vlx is referring too. I would assume the "From Heater" plug. Could go to Napa and buy a 5/8" threaded to 5/8" hose barb with 2-3ft of 5/8" heater hose. That way you could install the barb with the hose real quick, and then use a funnel at the end of the hose to pour anti-freeze in. After you are done replace the sq bolt plug with thread tape sealer and you are good to go.

Again, if this is what greg was referring too. I have not done it this way before, just familiar with the areas he is talking about because I just did our heater install.

EDIT: Shawn, could you correct me if I am wrong? lol :)

Edited by ahopkins1988
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Afun. Slow down dude.

First off, YOU DON'T need to add antifreeze at all. The draining is the important part. The antifreeze is just the suspenders to go with your belt. An unneccesary step.

Secondly, YOU DON'T need to pull the tstat. Just a hose on top of the motor, leading into the tstat housing. Pour the antifreeze in there. If you are extra super double paranoid, leave the drain plugs out while you do this and watch with your own eyes as the antifreeze pours through your block.

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When looking at this video....draining the block will be the last screw on the very bottom on the block? Should I also drain the exhaust manifolds? Is it necessary to drain all the water in the hoses?

I have the boat inside a garage now because of this winter snap. We will hit 29 - 32 degrees in the night the next two nights. I am just asking questions.

In this video they have sea water pump. That must be for a salt water edition. I could not find anything like that in my boat. I need to loosed the hoses leading to the vdrive/tranny cooler and I think I am done. Also, no reference to removing the T-stat when adding anti-freeze.

The sea water pump this video is referring too is the "bilge"...correct.

Calling my salesman tomorrow.

Edited by Afun
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