At what Temps do you really start to consider Winterization.....

[Bobby Light]

How can they tell?? Does the shop that "professionally" did the job have any liability at that point?

I probably have to provide documentation, and I'm sure it's their green light to go after their insurance.

[Afun]

Seriously??

Yeah seriously...

[burider]

OK, I just did my first "quick" winterization... Let's star with the vdrive. Cranked on the drain plugs for about 30 min. The one in the front finally came out, back one wouldn't budge. The back one had fresh paint on them like it had never been touched. Hopefully one was enough. Got the trans cooler no problem. Then on to the water pump hose. Again don't think this has ever been removed, and still hasn't. Had to move on it was getting dark. Got the manifold quick coupler no prob then on to the block. Knock sensor removed, petcock opened, done. I was trying to follow the winterization guide from this site, but it seems like the dealer hasn't been doing all of it. Is the guide over kill?

[dlb]

If you drain everything antifreeze is a waste of money. Never used it, never had a problem. RTFM, no mention of the need for antifreeze in mine.

[Afun]

If you drain everything antifreeze is a waste of money. Never used it, never had a problem. RTFM, no mention of the need for antifreeze in mine.

I am thinking antifreeze is used so when the season begins you could get up and go.

[dlb]

I just hook the hoses up, put the hose to the flush pro and fire it up for a few minutes. Check to see that the hoses are tight and then load up and head to the lake......

This is easy, easy, easy.

Edited October 25, 2013 by dlb

[shawndoggy]

I am thinking antifreeze is used so when the season begins you could get up and go.

because without antifreeze you'd need to ____________________________?

[Bill_AirJunky]

I am thinking antifreeze is used so when the season begins you could get up and go.

Uh, no. Not even close.

If anything it ADDS more steps to the winterization & de-winterization processes.

I've heard of several rationalizations for it, ie; it has rust inhibitors in it, gets into places that don't drain well so any leftover water doesn't freeze, and who knows what else. I don't really buy into it though, as do many others out there.

I will drain mine 5 - 10 times per year if I want to ride in the spring or fall. I've already done it twice this fall. And we're heading out again Saturday so it'll be done again, sitting at the ramp in the clean up area. I will have it done before my buddy is done wiping the boat down & putting gear away. Once you get the process down, it's just not that tough to do.

[t a]

OK, I just did my first "quick" winterization... Let's star with the vdrive. Cranked on the drain plugs for about 30 min. The one in the front finally came out, back one wouldn't budge. The back one had fresh paint on them like it had never been touched. Hopefully one was enough. Got the trans cooler no problem. Then on to the water pump hose. Again don't think this has ever been removed, and still hasn't. Had to move on it was getting dark. Got the manifold quick coupler no prob then on to the block. Knock sensor removed, petcock opened, done. I was trying to follow the winterization guide from this site, but it seems like the dealer hasn't been doing all of it. Is the guide over kill?

Your probably fine on the vdrive, my plugs are all torn up by using vice grips to try and get them off every year. I called my dealer to try and get some new ones, they couldn't find any from anywhere to buy new. They also said they don't ever pull them when they winterize cause just pulling the hoses off gets nearly everything out. On my Walters v-drive, the hoses are lower than the plugs so it's pointless to take them out... You can always pour some antifreeze in if your worried

[Afun]

because without antifreeze you'd need to ____________________________?

I don't know

[Afun]

Uh, no. Not even close.

If anything it ADDS more steps to the winterization & de-winterization processes.

I've heard of several rationalizations for it, ie; it has rust inhibitors in it, gets into places that don't drain well so any leftover water doesn't freeze, and who knows what else. I don't really buy into it though, as do many others out there.

I will drain mine 5 - 10 times per year if I want to ride in the spring or fall. I've already done it twice this fall. And we're heading out again Saturday so it'll be done again, sitting at the ramp in the clean up area. I will have it done before my buddy is done wiping the boat down & putting gear away. Once you get the process down, it's just not that tough to do.

Uh, no. Not even close.

If anything it ADDS more steps to the winterization & de-winterization processes.

I've heard of several rationalizations for it, ie; it has rust inhibitors in it, gets into places that don't drain well so any leftover water doesn't freeze, and who knows what else. I don't really buy into it though, as do many others out there.

I will drain mine 5 - 10 times per year if I want to ride in the spring or fall. I've already done it twice this fall. And we're heading out again Saturday so it'll be done again, sitting at the ramp in the clean up area. I will have it done before my buddy is done wiping the boat down & putting gear away. Once you get the process down, it's just not that tough to do.

Good Answer. You do it all with socket wrenches, so you won't strip.

[shawndoggy]

I don't know

The "ready to go" part is more about buttoning the boat back up after you drain everything than backfilling with antifreeze. the AF doesn't really "do" much.

[NCVride]

Here's my take on this entire topic....It may have been said already by one of you.

Tonight it is supposed to be around 30 here in NC after a high in the mid/upper 50's. Plenty of my buddies have freaked out and drained their blocks today. My take is that if you look at a temp chart hour by hour overnight, the coldest point typically comes just at daybreak before the sun comes up. Also this time of year that coldest point around 30 degrees only last for an hour or two. My boat is on a lift over 60 degree water right now. There is NO WAY the guts of my block and hoses will ever be cold enough at these temps to freeze. If so, then I will eat my crow.

In my opinion, like someone said above, you need the temps to be 28ish or less for a few nights to get me worried. With that being said, If it's 28 at night and 60 during the day, you would probably still be ok especially if you boat is over warmer water.

It comes down to your specific conditions. Outdoor Storage, Covered Storage, on a lift or in the water combined with the day/night temps.

I'll probably get around to winterizing mine in about 2 weeks after I make one last wet/drysuit free run, unless the arctic decides to freeze North Carolina.

Edited October 25, 2013 by NCVride

[Bill_AirJunky]

Good Answer. You do it all with socket wrenches, so you won't strip.

The only thing I need a tool for is the knock sensor on the passenger side of the block. I use a pair of channel locks the first time, then hand thread it in & out everytime after that. And the rear hull drain is a 9/16" wrench.

All my exhaust hoses, center hull drain, heater & shower fittings are done by hand. Plus I run a Globe run-dry impeller so I bump start the engine to blow out the last remnants of water after it's all opened up.

[Afun]

Enclosed structure with small propane heater kept things around 45 degrees last night....nice! Tonight's another freeze warning night.

Now, why do I have to fill the tank with fuel to then add stabilizer? Can I just leave the tank of fuel where it's at and add stabilizer accordingly?

Edited October 25, 2013 by Afun

[jb 156]

Off topic but next week they are calling for a 70 degree day on Tuesday, did you get the Soulcraft back yet that looks like a good day for a test run.

[teamerickson]

Enclosed structure with small propane heater kept things around 45 degrees last night....nice! Tonight's another freeze warning night.

Now, why do I have to fill the tank with fuel to then add stabilizer? Can I just leave the tank of fuel where it's at and add stabilizer accordingly?

Yes.

[Afun]

Off topic but next week they are calling for a 70 degree day on Tuesday, did you get the Soulcraft back yet that looks like a good day for a test run.

I will probably not get it back. But I did get a Danielo Diamond! Hopefully, we will crank out another session. Douglas levels pretty low. Looks like Norris.

[jb 156]

Yeah if mine wasn't winterized I would still get out on Douglas, but not recommended for those who don't know the lake and the islands, rocks, silos etc that start showing up this time of year.

[Bill_AirJunky]

Now, why do I have to fill the tank with fuel to then add stabilizer? Can I just leave the tank of fuel where it's at and add stabilizer accordingly?

Because gas will spoil, or go bad. It turns to varnish & your boat won't run on that. It'll take a while though. So as long as you take your boat out & run it every few days, you won't have a problem.

[Baddog]

I winterized today (in NC). My first attempt at winterizing. Wish my block good luck!

Your block does not need wishing of good luck - - - your wallet does. But here's to luck, regardless.

[Bill_AirJunky]

Your block does not need wishing of good luck - - - your wallet does. But here's to luck, regardless.

How much sleep do you get on "good luck"?

[nyryan2001]

Afun- do you keep your boat nearby in the winter or off in storage somewhere.

Understand this is a $7-10k gamble and lose 30-60days of your boating season if you were to get it wrong.

But, you can answer you own question.

Once you do drain your block and get it ready... As those cold temps approach.... Put a bottle of water down under your engine... And check on it periodically...record the temps, and how long they persist till you go from water, to slush, to partial ice to full froze thru.

^^^^ that'd be a huge contribution folks would appreciate. I'd do it but my boat isn't here at my house, it's off in storage.

Any takers on this?

[Afun]

Afun- do you keep your boat nearby in the winter or off in storage somewhere.

Understand this is a $7-10k gamble and lose 30-60days of your boating season if you were to get it wrong.

But, you can answer you own question.

Once you do drain your block and get it ready... As those cold temps approach.... Put a bottle of water down under your engine... And check on it periodically...record the temps, and how long they persist till you go from water, to slush, to partial ice to full froze thru.

^^^^ that'd be a huge contribution folks would appreciate. I'd do it but my boat isn't here at my house, it's off in storage.

Any takers on this?

The boat is in a heated metal structure building a my buddies house. I am very lucky.

Ryan, do you winterize your boat with a full tank of fuel in it? If yes, why?

[nyryan2001]

Usually... 99% full = when I start to hear gurgling but before the nozzle clicks.

I have had a full topped off tank expand and leak out the air vent from temp changes.

Last year I had a full tank of treated fuel stolen/drained out of the 247 at my storage facility. I suspect it was a welder guy stores his trailer there with a dually with external fuel tank that's gas for his generators, not diesel.

Not this year though... Might be moving back to the east coast over Christmas.... I'd rather not have the extra 500lbs on an already heavy haul.