At what Temps do you really start to consider Winterization.....

[Sixball]

It takes 10 - 12 hours for the guts of the engine reach the outside temp. That was from operating temp in a vehicle. At a steady temp. It was also on cast iron not aluminum.

[Afun]

Tonight and tomorrow definitely won't be a problem. They're not calling for sub-freezing until Friday night. If you're in West Knoxville I can come by tonight or tomorrow night and show you how to do it.

Thanks. I am putting the boat in my friends metal building he has at his house. We should be good for now.

[Afun]

have you heard the phrase RTFM?

Chapter 7 of the Indmar manual has instructions and pictures (though I'd skip the "remove the impeller" part for a freeze protection issue).

1. unscrew the crossover hose and drain the manifolds

2. remove raw water hose from lower side of tranny cooler (it's the beercan looking thing)

3. Remove raw water hose from vdrive to let it drain (this may also require removal of plugs if the vdrive raw water inputs are "high"... see the pics in the manual)

4. Remove knock sensors and engine drain plugs.

Now you are drained. Button it all back up and you should be good to go.

RTFM...Read the funny manual....why you gotta be so hard on me

[shawndoggy]

RTFM...Read the funny manual....why you gotta be so hard on me

Well, because you should really listen to Indmar not a bunch of internet yahoos. Plus it should give you some understanding of how your boat works.

[Baddog]

Well, because you should really listen to Indmar not a bunch of internet yahoos. Plus it should give you some understanding of how your boat works.

Yes that, plus it's fun to pick on you, Afun. All in good fun of course.

[JustinOSU]

Temporary solution just drape a canvas or nylon drop cloth over it that reaches the ground. The ground temps are still 60+ and that would act lake a blanket

[isellacuras]

Careful, I haven't heard of afuns shirt coming off in a while. I bet he's about due.

[Afun]

Well, because you should really listen to Indmar not a bunch of internet yahoos. Plus it should give you some understanding of how your boat works.

COM'ON Man....

[Afun]

Yes that, plus it's fun to pick on you, Afun. All in good fun of course.

Yeah....real funny

[nyryan2001]

There are more than 4 steps to winterize. Look in your Owner's manual, section 7-1 and 7-2.

http://www.indmar.com/service-support/manuals/2012.aspx

[shawndoggy]

There are more than 4 steps to winterize. Look in your Owner's manual, section 7-1 and 7-2.

http://www.indmar.com/service-support/manuals/2012.aspx

Totally. But the OP was limited to "engine block problems." So my response was tailored to that. Obviously didn't mention fuel treatment, oil change, etc.

[Murphy8166]

Here is a list of tools you will need in case.....

1.) flat head screw driver or 5/16" nut driver - this allows you to remove the hoses

2.) 9/16" box end wrench - this allows you to remove the nut's on the knock sensors

3.) 1" stubby box end wrench - this allows you to remove the knocks sensors

4.) 1/2" box end wrench - this allows you to remove the plus in the Ski Vee

[Nitrousbird]

Depends on your storage and cooling system setup. Since I have partial closed cooling (which has antifreeze going through the heater core as well) + keep it in an attached garage, I can wait until it gets pretty cold for a consistent basis before winterizing. I normally just winterize before it gets too damn cold out to want to do it.

[wakeboarder3780]

I don't have a heater or shower. I live in WI and ride until ice forms. Assuming you have a globe impeller, simply drain the block by removing the knock sensors and disconnecting the cross over hose. When done draining start the engine and let it run until no more water pees out the knock sensor holes in the block, then shut off engine. Takes 6 mins when you're practiced. Never had an issue in my life.

[kayakwv]

My solution would be to ride everyday so the engine stays constantly warm. Much more fun than draining the block. ?

Edited October 24, 2013 by kayakwv

[eyekode]

I winterized today (in NC). My first attempt at winterizing. Wish my block good luck!

[MalibuTime]

I have not drained my block every winter, but my boat sits in the garage and has been out in December and January on the rare occasion. If I go on vacation in winter though I make sure I drain it. Being gone + power outage + artic blast is surely what would happened if I was gone for a week and didn't drain the block. Not that it would necessarily even freeze inside my insulated garage. To answer afun's original question. If the temp was going to even maybe reach 32 I wouldn't leave my boat cooling system full of water. It's just an easy line in the sand to remember. What you could do, how many hours it could go are all great concepts until your block freezes.

[Afun]

When looking at this video....draining the block will be the last screw on the very bottom on the block? Should I also drain the exhaust manifolds? Is it necessary to drain all the water in the hoses?

I have the boat inside a garage now because of this winter snap. We will hit 29 - 32 degrees in the night the next two nights. I am just asking questions.

[shawndoggy]

afun, there are knock sensors on either sides of the block and the plugs are underneath the sensors. So if you look under the spark plugs, there will be a set of wires that terminates on either side of the block to a knock sensor. That's where the block drain plugs are.

When you get around to R'ing TFM, you will find this on page 7-6:

[smeagol]

I've heard it said that it would take three solid days of below freezing temperature to do damage to the engine. Does anyone have evidence to the contrary? I realize that it is no big deal to drain the block, but I also would guess that there is more worry on this topic than what is necessary. Since I'm basing my current assumption on little to no data, I am certainly open to changing my perspective, especially if someone has experience or data to back up the concern.

[MalibuTime]

I didn't watch the video, but there are two drain plugs, one on each side of the block. Bottom, about center. They are doubled up with anti-knock sensor so they look like this:

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1405

IIRC, you need a 1-1/8” deep socket to get those out.
Make sure to do both of those. As for hoses, you don’t have to get all of the water out of the hoses, but pulling them off and draining them should get enough. Don’t not take the hose clamps off and pull the specified hoses. Of course don't forget the exhaust manifolds.

[Afun]

I've heard it said that it would take three solid days of below freezing temperature to do damage to the engine. Does anyone have evidence to the contrary? I realize that it is no big deal to drain the block, but I also would guess that there is more worry on this topic than what is necessary. Since I'm basing my current assumption on little to no data, I am certainly open to changing my perspective, especially if someone has experience or data to back up the concern.

This is exactly the purpose of this thread.

[MalibuTime]

Let us know if that is right, or if you get a cracked block I am curious how many days it takes.

[barefootpaul]

A couple years ago I put a small dish of water on my work bench in my detached un-heated garage. I didn't write down my results but I do recall it taking way colder temperatures to freeze than I though it would. Cold like daytime highs below freezing. Way colder than I would ever allow my bu to sit unwinterized.

I did the trouble light trick with overnight lows in the mid 20's.

Now I have a heated garage so no more worries.

[Michigan boarder]

I've heard it said that it would take three solid days of below freezing temperature to do damage to the engine. Does anyone have evidence to the contrary? I realize that it is no big deal to drain the block, but I also would guess that there is more worry on this topic than what is necessary. Since I'm basing my current assumption on little to no data, I am certainly open to changing my perspective, especially if someone has experience or data to back up the concern.

It all depends on the circumstances. In the current weather, you're right, probably not a big deal. But what if he ran it for 15 minutes, just to get thru the next cold snap? And it got really windy? And the door blew open to the barn? What if the barn has heat, at what temp should it be ran to before shutting it off for the night? How fast will the block pick up that heat for "heat sink" over night? How many cubic feet is the barn? Infinite variables, that one day might catch up with the OP. So the best answer is learn how to drain it quickly, then there will never be another what if. And if he never does drain it except this once, if there is ever an emergency and he needs to, he can do it again and easily.

So the best response is "Hey, that's your call. But here's what you do if you are concerned about it freezing..."