Help Me Get My Dumb Boat Running - Could Be a Prize

[WakeGirl]

This isn't necessarily true but generally. I didn't post this up before because I don't really think it applies in this case, but I did have experience with an older model GM 2.8L. It drove me nuts for a long time. ....

Well there's your problem.

(Sorry, couldn't resist.)

[nuttyskier2002]

Find someone that has an oscilloscope and knows how to use it and check the pickup coil in the distributor, it puts out an AC sine wave that the computer senses and tells the module when to fire the coil. It has a 2 wire connector that plugs into the module under the rotor, I think they are white and green, the pickup coil is a permanent magnet and are bad about dropping signal as they age, they will crack at the mounting rivets and moisture causes them to rust pretty bad. I'd upload a pic but the forum isn't allowing from tapatalk yet. Your ignition system starts here, test it unplugged, it generates it's own voltage signal. If you can't figure out how any good mechanic should be able to test it with a sun scope or vantage graphing meter.

There was issues with GM distributors from the late 80s and early to mid 90s with the pickup coils failing. I wouldn't be surprised at all to learn that this is what's wrong with Baddog's boat.

[nuttyskier2002]

I appreciate all of the responses on this frustrating issue, especially because the dealer can't really get to it until February.

My distriubutor has not moved from its standard position. It is match marked and tight to the engine.

Distributor plate is aluminum, not plastic. I have replaced the ingition module on the distributor plate.

Echelon Mike has offered to help, we just need to connect and find a time to meet.

Nutty, I will try to call you after 2 p.m. PDT

My boat is at a storage place 10 miles from my house.

I do have a DVM, but will have to dig into the moving boxes to find my 12V test light and the timing light may never be found.

The coil has two 2-pronged plugs and the post. Which prong would I connect the test light to?

I think you have an "E" coil type coil....am I right? It's iron core is made of several plates of iron bonded together and in the shape of two "Es" coupled together front to front. The windings are wound around the center pole of the core and it has a male terminal tower (secondary). I don't believe the pos and neg terminals on the primary coil are marked on this coil. But with the ignition switch on you can backprobe the connector and test for 12v. Check both terminals. Then have someone crank the engine over and backprobe both again with your testlight. One terminal will have +12v at all times. The other terminal should flash. The flash should be steady (not intermittent) and last as long as the engine is cranking. The flashing terminal is the - side and the constant +12v side is the +. The - side of the coil is controlled by the ignition module.

[Walter]

+ will be a pink wire. - will be white At the coil, I think this system has two 2 pin connectors, 2 pink and 2 white, or at least that's how they are on the GM trucks and cars

Edited October 25, 2013 by Walter

[Baddog]

+ will be a pink wire. - will be white At the coil, I think this system has two 2 pin connectors, 2 pink and 2 white, or at least that's how they are on the GM trucks and cars

Yes it does have two 2-pin connectors. I have to go back to confirm colors. How do I know which of each pair on connectors to probe?

[Walter]

With the key on all 4 wires should be hot(if I remember correctly), the module grounds the white wire when cranking or running, if it's not grounding the pickup coil or module isn't working right. This is if you have a spark issue, you can use a screwdriver to check, pull off a wire from the cap and put a screwdriver in the end, hold it about 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from the post and have someone crank it, you should have a nice blue spark jumping from the post to the screwdriver

[Baddog]

With the key on all 4 wires should be hot(if I remember correctly), the module grounds the white wire when cranking or running, if it's not grounding the pickup coil or module isn't working right. This is if you have a spark issue, you can use a screwdriver to check, pull off a wire from the cap and put a screwdriver in the end, hold it about 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from the post and have someone crank it, you should have a nice blue spark jumping from the post to the screwdriver

Doesn't matter which plug wire does it?

[Walter]

Nope, you can use the coil wire if you want, just make sure there's no flammable liquid or gas nearby, lol s*** happens

Edited October 25, 2013 by Walter

[Baddog]

If it doesn't spark is that a toasted coil?

[Walter]

Not necessarily, it may not be getting the ground signal on the white wire telling it to spark, having some kind of graphing meter is invaluable at times like these

Edited October 25, 2013 by Walter

[Baddog]

Not necessarily, it may not be getting the ground signal on the white wire telling it to spark, having some kind of graphing meter is invaluable at times like these

Don't have one of those, nor do I know a car guy here. Back in Jersey, I have a great guy, but noooo . . . .

[Walter]

Dang, just did a google search for graphing meter and there are quite a few on eBay for less than 200$, they help with a lot of problems but if you don't need one for everyday use it's a little much for a fancy voltmeter.....

Know any electricians with a fluke 98?

[nuttyskier2002]

Baddog, The white wire that Walter is talking about is the same circuit that connects to the neg (-) side of the coil. With ignition on the pos (+) gets 12v constant. The neg side gets grounded (as said above) by the ignition module. When the circuit breaks (coil is ungrounded) the coil fires via the secondary and you get a spark. The ground/ungrounding is a continuous square wave as long as the engine is cranking/running and the pickup coil and ignition module are doing their job. If one of these fails......you get intermittent or no grounding/ungrounding and you get weak or no spark. Like Walter says.....you can manually ground the neg (-) side of the coil with a test light or other device (ignition on) and check for spark. When you touch the light's probe to the - side (clip of test light grounded and ignition on) the coil charges. When you remove the probe the coil fires. If the coil fires then you prove the the coil and everything upstream of here is working.

[Baddog]

Unfortunately, I have not yet solved my issues. Nuttyskier has been helping me via the phone, which I much appreciate. Right now I need to find a couple of special wire thingies to test the ingnition module to coil operation, but it is going to be a rainy bugger today so none of that will happen tonight. I am hoping to test that on Friday or Saturday. Also trying to hook up with EchelonMike perhaps on Saturday.

This site is great from a help perspective. My wife still rolls her eyes every time I am on this site, but the knowledge and help is awesome. Every one of the crew I hve met in person have been great folks.

[electricjohn]

Come back to NJ, and I'll fix it for free.

[nuttyskier2002]

Looks like a few posts here were deleted. Or were they redirected to a different thread? Anyway they are gone.

[tvano]

Looks like a few posts here were deleted. Or were they redirected to a different thread? Anyway they are gone.

mods moved it to it's own thread.

edit to add link.

Edited October 31, 2013 by tvano

[WakeGirl]

Yup, this thread is already long & complicated enough without someone else piggybacking a separate problem that has a high likelihood of being something completely different.

[Baddog]

Come back to NJ, and I'll fix it for free.

Come out to OH and I'll buy you some good beer AND scotch when you help me fix this baby, John.

[Falko]

Do you have a separate coil or is it like an HEI in the distributor coil?

[Baddog]

Do you have a separate coil or is it like an HEI in the distributor coil?

Not sure what an HEI is, but this is a 1998 engine with a single coil mounted to the engine on the starboard side of the distributor.

[nuttyskier2002]

His distributor is the one with the smaller cap and separate coil. The marine industry was still using Mallory and Prestolite point type distributors until the late '80s or early '90s. By that time GM was producing the HEI with the divorced coil. There are aftermarket marine distributors with the coil in the cap but I'm not sure you'll find an originally equipped boat with one of these on it.

[formulaben]

Anything to update, Baddog?

[Baddog]

Anything to update, Baddog?

Looks like it is the pick-up on the distributor and if I wasn't heading to Jamaica in 2 hours, i would be replacing the distributor today. It'll have to wait.

[vlong]

WHAT! Wait, you just figure it out (maybe) and you're running off to "Jamaica Mon". Cancel Jamaica, lets get the Bu running!

Just kidding, have fun in Jamaica. This is suspense man!