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Baddog

Help Me Get My Dumb Boat Running - Could Be a Prize

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Baddog

OK there probably won't be a cash prize, but there could be . . .

1998 SSLX, 325 Monsoon

It has run nicely all summer until a couple of outings ago where it would start but run rough for a bit, then be mostly OK.

Last time out it would not start at all (very embarrasing at the ramp)

It currently will crank just fine but not even an inkling of wanting to actually start or run.

I have:

- Changed both filters

- Changed the cap and rotor, correct wire placement

- Changed back to the old cap and rotor, correct wire placement

- Dumped gas down the throttle body

- Tried throttle at idle

- Tried throttle at half

- Tried throttle wide open

- Held the kill switch in by hand

- Recharged the battery

- Tried all of the above again

NOW WHAT?? Help!

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shawndoggy

you could try tvano's no-start-faq, which is linked in my signature?

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kerpluxal

My 2000 Sunsetter would not go over 22 at first, then as time passed it started running rough unless I idled down to a slower speed. Then it quit running and would not restart. Dealer replaced the kill switch, now all is fine.

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Baddog

My 2000 Sunsetter would not go over 22 at first, then as time passed it started running rough unless I idled down to a slower speed. Then it quit running and would not restart. Dealer replaced the kill switch, now all is fine.

I was thinking about this. If I want to bypass the kill switch do I just twist the two wires together? Could it be that easy?

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shawndoggy

do you get guages at key-up when things are running right? If you aren't now, that strongly points to the kill switch.

kill switch breaks ground for fuel pump and guages so they won't work.

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Baddog

do you get guages at key-up when things are running right? If you aren't now, that strongly points to the kill switch.

kill switch breaks ground for fuel pump and guages so they won't work.

Well shoot, then, becaseu I am getting gauges and can hear the fuel pump. I did check, I have actual fuel flow after the pump.

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kerpluxal

I will test on my home and provide an update... I remember my gauges working and no issues with my perfect pass (minus that the boat would not hold a speed) give me 2 hrs :)

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shawndoggy

so do you have spark? It sounds like not if you dumped fuel down the TB and it won't fire, but you should verify that.

verify your relays are good

verify no engine compartment fuses blown or breakers tripped (usually fuses are near relays).

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kerpluxal

Perfect Pass and Fuel Flow gauges worked, rest did not when kill switch was disconnected. Fuel pump did not turn on either (as it should). Agree with shawndoggy on checking to see if you have spark and relays/fuses.

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grandude

The apparent lack of spark makes me think Ignition control module. This is located under the distributer cap. When they go bad it causes the symptoms you have described. You can source it a auto parts store, but I would take the part into the store with you. Probably reference a 96-97 chevy truck.

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eminent

Sounds like a spark issue. that's where you need to start. once we know if it has or doesn't have spark we can go from there

have you checked it for codes??

Edited by eminent

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Baddog

Sounds like a spark issue. that's where you need to start. once we know if it has or doesn't have spark we can go from there

have you checked it for codes??

Where do I plug in for codes?

I will go back tomorrow with spark plug wrench to check for spark.

Anyone have a picture of the ignition control module?

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CumminsBu

Check to see if you bumped a wire on your ignition coil.

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Michigan boarder

Clearly, the engine is bad. Crate it up and send it my way, I'll dispose of it for you.

Is your coil leaking any oil? Check the outside, and then pull the wire from the top and take a look down to make sure it's not leaking there either. If you do get it running and it acts up again, see if that coil is really hot, it might be a coil.

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brad72

Have you checked the neutral switch to make sure it is operating correctly?

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shawndoggy

if the neutral switch were the culprit he wouldn't crank.

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brad72

if the neutral switch were the culprit he wouldn't crank.

My 30 second memory had forgotten that part by the time I got to the end of the threads :oops:

Edited by brad72

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Baddog

Clearly, the engine is bad. Crate it up and send it my way, I'll dispose of it for you.

Is your coil leaking any oil? Check the outside, and then pull the wire from the top and take a look down to make sure it's not leaking there either. If you do get it running and it acts up again, see if that coil is really hot, it might be a coil.

My wife won't even go to the lake with me let alone drive the boat. Nobody blew up my pistons, but thanks for caring. What's inside a coil that would be leaking? PCBs?

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brad72

the older style coil is bathed in oil an insulator, and to keep it cool. The coil is a coil of wire within a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core making it a step up transformer producing 35,000 volts.

If you have one of the newer coils there will be no oil in it as it is just wrapped in epoxy

.

Edited by brad72

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Levi900RR

This is ignition for sure... start at the plugs and work backwards.

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Baddog

How do I check if fuel is getting to and past the injectors?

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Levi900RR

Did you confirm that its getting spark?

Are the plugs wet? If they're super dry it could indicate a fuel issue.

Edited by Levi900RR

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Falko

Things I'd check

Fuel pressure at the rail

getting spark?

- check the wiring to the dist

- check the coil (ohm to see if there is resistance)

- you could have a problem with the ignition pack in the dist

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Baddog

Things I'd check

Fuel pressure at the rail

getting spark?

- check the wiring to the dist

- check the coil (ohm to see if there is resistance)

- you could have a problem with the ignition pack in the dist

How do I check fuel pressure in the rail?

How much resistance is normal?

How do I know if the ignition pack is faulty?

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