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Ndawg12

OEM Fin Dimensions

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Ndawg12

Are the fins for a VTX, VTX, 23/247LSV all the same dimensions? If so, can anyone solve this equation for A,B,C,D? If they aren't all the same can anyone measure they're 247 for me. I'm cutting tonight and hopefully testing tomorrow.

TIA,

Nate, MS Paint Master

surfgatefindim_zpsbfe143b2.jpg

4454926_20130907162423651_1_XLARGE.jpg&w

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Ronnie

Can't help you with fins (Gates?) but you should introduce yourself to Google Sketchup. Easy design/drawing program + it's free.

http://www.sketchup.com

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Jimmypooh

If it helps... when measuring, don't get the protractor out to find the angles, just measure one of the diagonals.

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TrickyNicky

Can't help you with fins (Gates?) but you should introduce yourself to Google Sketchup. Easy design/drawing program + it's free.

http://www.sketchup.com

Are you trying to say there'e something wrong with his sketch?

BTW, I've been trying to find him without any luck but there is a newer member here with a 247 w SG, can't for the life of me track him down. Only one I've seen too.

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Ndawg12

Can't help you with fins (Gates?) but you should introduce yourself to Google Sketchup. Easy design/drawing program + it's free.

http://www.sketchup.com

Dang Ronnie, I spent some time on this one and one of my best :biggrin: I like claiming to be a master of a kindergarten grade program but I'll check it out, thanks!!

If it helps... when measuring, don't get the protractor out to find the angles, just measure one of the diagonals.

Makes sense, thanks.

Are ....

BTW, I've been trying to find him without any luck but there is a newer member here with a 247 w SG, can't for the life of me track him down. Only one I've seen too.

Yeah, they're pretty few and far between I guess. I posted a status update asking for this info and got crickets.....

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Ronnie

Nope, nothing wrong with the skratch but...Sketchup will give him MANY more options to design and draw out his projects. For the time he spent on MS Paint, he probably could have drawn it in a fraction of the time with SU.

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BlackBluMalibu

2013 23LSV surfgate has dimensions of...

18.0 inches along the top, 12.5 inches along hinge edge, 18.25 inches along bottom edge and 10.0 inches along trailing edge. The top edge/hinge edge is 88 degrees (measured by a speed square) and the lower hinge edge/bottom edge is 84 degrees...

Hope this helps

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Ndawg12

2013 23LSV surfgate has dimensions of...

18.0 inches along the top, 12.5 inches along hinge edge, 18.25 inches along bottom edge and 10.0 inches along trailing edge. The top edge/hinge edge is 88 degrees (measured by a speed square) and the lower hinge edge/bottom edge is 84 degrees...

Hope this helps

That's fantastic, the one measurement I had an idea on was the hinge edge and 12.5 lines up perfectly with my assumption. I'd be willing to bet they're the same size. I will go with your dimensions as I'm leaving work now to go cut!! Thanks dude :thumbup:

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BlackBluMalibu

That's fantastic, the one measurement I had an idea on was the hinge edge and 12.5 lines up perfectly with my assumption. I'd be willing to bet they're the same size. I will go with your dimensions as I'm leaving work now to go cut!! Thanks dude :thumbup:

Good luck, and we want to see the finished product!

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BlackBluMalibu

If it helps... when measuring, don't get the protractor out to find the angles, just measure one of the diagonals.

I thought about doing that, but all the corners were rounded so using a speed square should be fairly accurate.

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Ndawg12

Good luck, and we want to see the finished product!

Oh it ain't gonna be pretty :blush: It's all wood and screws right now...on second thought, that's never stopped me :biggrin: I'll post up what/when I can. I plan to automate it this winter when I can purchase the PVC board and can get my hands on some cheap actuators to rebuild (I'm a tightwad).

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TrickyNicky

Oh it ain't gonna be pretty :blush: It's all wood and screws right now...on second thought, that's never stopped me :biggrin: I'll post up what/when I can. I plan to automate it this winter when I can purchase the PVC board and can get my hands on some cheap actuators to rebuild (I'm a tightwad).

Are you modifying the platform?

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Ndawg12

Are you modifying the platform?

Ha ha, I tried my hand at fg work, not happenin. Since I wont have the safety feature of it opening and closing at speed then I figure leaving some space between the fin and the platform will allow enough room for a trapped foot/arm. That's my story anyways :lol:

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BlackBluMalibu

Oh it ain't gonna be pretty :blush: It's all wood and screws right now...on second thought, that's never stopped me :biggrin: I'll post up what/when I can. I plan to automate it this winter when I can purchase the PVC board and can get my hands on some cheap actuators to rebuild (I'm a tightwad).

You might want to consider HDPE marine board in 5/8 or 3/4 thickness. FWIW IMO, Would work well. Can pick up fairly cheap at interstate plastics.... http://www.interstateplastics.com/index.php?vid=201309202117-4p-C201309241549-50

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TrickyNicky

You are going to want to, or should, make some adjustments to have the gates close further in. One of the problems I kept running into and apparently MA as well was that the closed gate blocks the water from properly wrapping around the boat. Matt was able to get away with it by trimming his teak platform. I trimmed my gate edge up but was unable to get it completely out of the way. At it's worst I had a large "step" in the wave because of the closed gate dragging in the water. One possible solution is to raise the swim deck by ~6" (4" minimum) so the gates will tuck underneath. The modification itself is actually really easy. I realize this may not be the best solution since you have young kids.

Just something to consider. There is a very valid reason Malibu redesigned the platform. I would just hate to see you have this "step" in your wave come spring, having already mounted everything. Once you mount the actuators to the boat, any adjustment in closed angle will effect the open angle. Something else that will help is mounting your hinges on angles parallel to the side of the boat so when you retract the gates the bottom edge "tucks" underneath the platform a bit, although still not a perfect solution.

Also, I don't really think the lenco actuators are strong enough to hurt someone on the back platform, I could be wrong but I wouldn't worry about it too much. You definitely don't want a gap that big though.

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TrickyNicky

You might want to consider HDPE marine board in 5/8 or 3/4 thickness. FWIW IMO, Would work well. Can pick up fairly cheap at interstate plastics.... http://www.interstateplastics.com/index.php?vid=201309202117-4p-C201309241549-50

Also used HDPE and UHMW plastic for my gates. I went with 1" because previously ordering 1/4" was WAAAAY too flimsy. I would say 3/4" would be good.

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BlackBluMalibu

Also used HDPE and UHMW plastic for my gates. I went with 1" because previously ordering 1/4" was WAAAAY too flimsy. I would say 3/4" would be good.

Agree... If you use thinner than 3/4 would need to put aluminum angle pieces run laterally for stiffness.

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malibudog

I used and like 1" thick uhmw from McMaster Carr. Agree that 3/4 is probably thick enough - I used thicker because I cut some slats through my manual version so it would switch from side to side by just pulling one pin.

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Ndawg12

Also used HDPE and UHMW plastic for my gates. I went with 1" because previously ordering 1/4" was WAAAAY too flimsy. I would say 3/4" would be good.

I meant hdpe and was thinking 5/8 or 3/4. I'll go with 3/4.

As for your prior post, what I think you're saying is that without a platform mod or being able to tuck the fin far enough under the platform then I'm going to drag...?

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TrickyNicky

I meant hdpe and was thinking 5/8 or 3/4. I'll go with 3/4.

As for your prior post, what I think you're saying is that without a platform mod or being able to tuck the fin far enough under the platform then I'm going to drag...?

Correct. The closed gate is going to drag in the water and disrupt the clean smooth curved face of the wave. Next time you go surfing this year take a wakeboard or surf board etc and just hold it against the side of the platform extending 8-10" below the platform. You will see a second "line" of water creating an abrupt change in the shape of the wave. I've attempted to explain it in other words a couple times in "The DIY Surf Gate thread"

Peg me for questions as much as you can.

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rugger

The best way, for surf gate at least, is to cut down your platform. The drag was shown in examples last summer. Otherwise, I'd consider the NSS, (although I still doubt the intercept concept works as well at surf speeds.)

my deck was teak, so much easier. But as much as I hated working with fiberglass (my gates) I wouldn't have flinched at modifying a fiberglass deck. Get factory gel coat, create a new rib, and perhaps raise the edge up like the factory's. That little amount of gel could even be sprayed with a preval can and wetsanded to perfection.

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Ndawg12

2_zps1fcaf385.jpg

3_zpscd214b65.jpgGetting closer, should be ready to go tonight, just gotta wait for the rain to pass for testing.

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martinarcher

Nice man. Looks good. What's the gate made of of? Are the holes for mounting a skin on the gate?

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Ndawg12

Nice man. Looks good. What's the gate made of of? Are the holes for mounting a skin on the gate?

PVC sheathing, remember....prototype :biggrin: I had some 1/2" laying around so I cut identical pieces and screwed them together. I plan to cut a regular and a goofy gate out of starboard later. Hopefully this won't fall apart before I get to 10mph!!

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martinarcher

Good deal. That stuff is the bomb for prototyping. I'm pumped to see how you made out on the lake! Keep us posted! :thumbup:

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