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Kj20203

I'm new! And need your help!

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Kj20203

First, I want to thank everyone for allowing me to do a lot of research on your website that ultimately led me to purchase a 2005 wakesetter LSV. That being said, I love my new boat, but there are a few problems that I have to address. Please let me know if anyone has any insight to the following:

1)Depth finder flashes 0.5 and 1.6 and shows nothing else. ( every other display function works)

Can I replace factory transducer? Or do I have to go aftermarket? If I have to get an aftermarket depth finder does anyone have any recommendations?

2)Perfect pass wakeboard pro does not maintain set speed (does beep)

I can turn servo by hand and it doesn't look like there is a problem with linkage.

3)Rear ballast pumps don't drain and keeps popping fuses.

Thank you very much for any help!

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Parrothead

Welcome to the Crew.... I cannot answer the first two, but I an sure someone else will chime in on those. The rear ballast pumps are most likely bad and need to be replaced. I am afraid unless your previous owner cut out spots in the rear floor, it is not an easy access to get to. The pumps are located in the rear lockers under the floor and that is most likely the reason they are still faulty from the previous owner. The good news is that the pumps are readily available as a cartidge and easily replaced when you get to them.

See this thread for the location and how to get to the pumps...

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22487-mls-drain-pump-removal/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bballast+%2Bpump+%2Blocation#entry327292

Edited by Parrothead

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REW

Is perfect pass doing anything at all or just beeping? A lot of people have noted that PP doesnt work so well when ballasted and running the stock prop, changing the prop can get perfect pass working. Yea I know sounds odd.

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mnhays

if the pumps are popping fuses, that also can mean there is blockage in the pumps, take off the housing and spin them by hand to unclog, or if it's legitimate blockage and not just blocked up you'll have to remove pumps and clean them out (pull out fishing line, seaweed etc)

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Kj20203

Thank you all very much for the help.

I am debating on cutting the floor to gain access to the pumps. I am planning on putting ballast bags on top of the cutout, so should I be worried about and problems with breaking the floor?

Also, I went by my local dealer and asked them about the depth finder. They gave my an in-hull transducer that replaces the previous through hull version. All that I do is epoxy it to the floor and splice into the existing wires of the old version. I maintain all factory function and display.

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NCVride

Maybe this will help on your depth finder issue, I have the same issues with mine but haven't ponied up the $$$ to fix it. There are quite a few others in the site with similar depth finder issues. It is one of 3 issues. I have an '06 VRide keep that in mind. Can't imagine it's that different.

1) Transducer - make sure it is tight. You should be able to twist the outer ring on it clockwise to make sure it is tight. If it is loose, tighten it then test. If that doesn't fix your problem, replace the transducer. Bakes has them for ~$175.

2) Depthfinder Control Module - if the transducer replacement doesn't fix your problem replace the DCM. ~$360 @ Bakes

3) If the above 2 do not work, it is a problem with the main display. From what I have learned this is about $1,000 to replace.

Good luck.

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LUV2SKI

:plus1: with MNHAYS. I had a little debris around my pump impeller. I cleaned it up and had no more popping fuses.

I am debating on cutting the floor to gain access to the pumps. I am planning on putting ballast bags on top of the cutout, so should I be worried about and problems with breaking the floor?

You only have to cut a small hatch door to gain access to the pump. It shouldn't pose a problem when you use your ballast bags.

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Kj20203

Is perfect pass doing anything at all or just beeping? A lot of people have noted that PP doesnt work so well when ballasted and running the stock prop, changing the prop can get perfect pass working. Yea I know sounds odd.

The perfect pass is beeping, and not maining the speed. Every once in a while I will get some sort of throttle correction. I can turn the servo by hand, so I am worried that it could be the module. Any thoughts?

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Kj20203

Maybe this will help on your depth finder issue, I have the same issues with mine but haven't ponied up the $$$ to fix it. There are quite a few others in the site with similar depth finder issues. It is one of 3 issues. I have an '06 VRide keep that in mind. Can't imagine it's that different.

1) Transducer - make sure it is tight. You should be able to twist the outer ring on it clockwise to make sure it is tight. If it is loose, tighten it then test. If that doesn't fix your problem, replace the transducer. Bakes has them for ~$175.

2) Depthfinder Control Module - if the transducer replacement doesn't fix your problem replace the DCM. ~$360 @ Bakes

3) If the above 2 do not work, it is a problem with the main display. From what I have learned this is about $1,000 to replace.

Good luck.

So it sounds like I will be going aftermarket.

Its between the Hummingbird 650 or the Hawkeye. Anyone have any personal experience with these?

Also, what is the hole cutout size for the factory through-hull transducer?

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Kj20203

if the pumps are popping fuses, that also can mean there is blockage in the pumps, take off the housing and spin them by hand to unclog, or if it's legitimate blockage and not just blocked up you'll have to remove pumps and clean them out (pull out fishing line, seaweed etc)

Rear pumps replaced, and I see now why to cut the floor!!! Both rear pumps were almost melted and very swollen. What could cause this?

I will be doing that mod next time I have a problem with them.

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REW

The perfect pass is beeping, and not maining the speed. Every once in a while I will get some sort of throttle correction. I can turn the servo by hand, so I am worried that it could be the module. Any thoughts?

Not really, I know you can be out of range of the throttle that it can move, i.e. leave it wide open. When this happens PP cannot make a large enough adjustment to do anything to the speed. Doesnt exactly sound like your problem.

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Kj20203

Not really, I know you can be out of range of the throttle that it can move, i.e. leave it wide open. When this happens PP cannot make a large enough adjustment to do anything to the speed. Doesnt exactly sound like your problem.

So you still think it is a servo problem?

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racer808

So you still think it is a servo problem?

If you go to perfect pass website there is a document that shows you how to trouble shoot the system & servo. I believe the servo is a easy test as well

Edited by racer808

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mnhays

servo linkage test is indeed pretty easy. it just checks to see that the servo motor pulls tight to the back of the throttle when powered on, you don't even need to be in the water to do this.

Straight from the manual - http://perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass%20-%20Copy/images/WakeEdition.Mechanical.pdf

Linkage Test – This is a quick & easy test to check throttle cable & linkage.
With key OFF, push throttle lever to ¾ open position. Now take the black knob on servo motor
and wind it counter clockwise a full turn and then clockwise a full turn. Do this slowly in each
direction and as you do this the engine throttle arm should be opening and closing very
smoothly. If the cable is “rubbing” or “catching” on a fuel rail or decorative engine cover, the
servo & cable should be repositioned to eliminate this. The stainless cable inside the black
jacket MUST be able to seamlessly move for the control to work properly.
With key off, push manual throttle to full open position and back to neutral. PerfectPass cable
should move freely in both directions.

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Kj20203

servo linkage test is indeed pretty easy. it just checks to see that the servo motor pulls tight to the back of the throttle when powered on, you don't even need to be in the water to do this.

Straight from the manual - http://perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass - Copy/images/WakeEdition.Mechanical.pdf

Linkage Test – This is a quick & easy test to check throttle cable & linkage.

With key OFF, push throttle lever to ¾ open position. Now take the black knob on servo motor

and wind it counter clockwise a full turn and then clockwise a full turn. Do this slowly in each

direction and as you do this the engine throttle arm should be opening and closing very

smoothly. If the cable is “rubbing” or “catching” on a fuel rail or decorative engine cover, the

servo & cable should be repositioned to eliminate this. The stainless cable inside the black

jacket MUST be able to seamlessly move for the control to work properly.

With key off, push manual throttle to full open position and back to neutral. PerfectPass cable

should move freely in both directions.

This has to be it.

My throttle cable has slack in it and the servo works when the angle/slack is moved.

Next question..... How can I tighten this ?

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