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petrie141

Trailer help... I can't catch a break

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petrie141

Anyone seen this before? I'm not a mechanic by any means, nor am I an expert on trailers, but I'm pretty sure something's wrong here. When towing the boat, everything feels kind of loose. When I apply the breaks, I can feel the trailer come forward a little. Then, when getting on the gas, I can feel it stay back and then get tugged all of the sudden. I originally thought the coupler wasn't snug on the hitch, but that wasn't the case. The internals of the coupler are very loose (see video below). When buying our bu (99 vlx) 3 or 4 months ago, we wanted to find one from a dealer in hopes that they would've gone through it and gotten it ready for the water. Well... I guess none of that really happened. We ran the boat for 3 or so months before it started making noises. I then took it to a shop, who upon initial inspection, said all of the following looked like they hadn't been replaced in a LONG time: all the fluids, spark plugs were nearly toast, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and impeller. I can now add the trailer to the list of items that wasn't cared for. See pics and video below.

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9533741820_1a6da17167_c.jpg

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Murphy8166

Yeah - it should not be that loose. That long shinny nipple is what pushes into the master cylinder to compress the brake fluid in the master cylinder and engage the surge braking system that you have.

It is not a terribly difficult job to replace and bleed. While you were under there I would replace everything like shock, master cylinder and break away action. Looks pretty rusty. Once you get the master cylinder fixed, you can then evaluate the rest of the system

Where in Texas are you>

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petrie141

Yeah - it should not be that loose. That long shinny nipple is what pushes into the master cylinder to compress the brake fluid in the master cylinder and engage the surge braking system that you have.

It is not a terribly difficult job to replace and bleed. While you were under there I would replace everything like shock, master cylinder and break away action. Looks pretty rusty. Once you get the master cylinder fixed, you can then evaluate the rest of the system

Where in Texas are you>

Thanks for the info, I'm near Austin. There's a trailer shop around here that works on stuff like this apparemtly. I'm tempted to just let them go through it and see what else they can find. Judging by my experience so far, the previous owners of the boat (and the dealership) didn't care too much for routine maintenance. The trailer shop also let me know that they can install prop-guard wheels... I definitely need those.

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MalibuTime

Do your brakes work? You should be able to feel the trailer "grab" and start to slow down behind you and pull on the tow vehichle just a bit. Felt through the butt dyno (seat).

You might want to replace the whole shootin match http://www.amazon.com/1-Axle-Hydraulic-Brake-Actuator-Inner/dp/B006UH5AAC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376773754&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=ufp+hitch+surge

with something like that (check fitment of course).

edit- trailer shop sounds like a good idea, but I would just say that they need servicing, and not necessarily that you want them go through every thing and tell you what is wrong, then everything will need replacing.

Edited by MalibuTime

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petrie141

Do your brakes work? You should be able to feel the trailer "grab" and start to slow down behind you and pull on the tow vehichle just a bit. Felt through the butt dyno (seat).

You might want to replace the whole shootin match http://www.amazon.com/1-Axle-Hydraulic-Brake-Actuator-Inner/dp/B006UH5AAC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376773754&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=ufp+hitch+surge

with something like that (check fitment of course).

edit- trailer shop sounds like a good idea, but I would just say that they need servicing, and not necessarily that you want them go through every thing and tell you what is wrong, then everything will need replacing.

I'm not sure if they're working or not. I definitely don't notice it grab and slow me down. We previously owned an 18.5' sea ray with a single axle trailer, towing the bu feels about the same as towing the SR even though it weighs more... maybe that could be attributed to us now having a dual axle trailer?

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Bozboat

I like MalibuTime's suggestion. For the price, Replace the whole hitch end of the trailer and sleep soundly.

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Murphy8166

That trailer you have is Dorsey trailer....correct.

You are going to have to do some major modification if you go the UFP route. I looked into this about 5 years ago.

I would also not want to be cutting and welding on a trailer with all that rust.

Edited by Murphy8166

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petrie141

The trailer is a roadrunner. Now that I look at it, I think there's supposed to be a block near the "spring" on the pushrod assembly. If I had the block, I don't think the push rod would be able to wiggle like that. I watched the video below and it helped me at least figure out what things are called. I don't really want to change the entire coupler, this one is welded on. I also think my shock is okay, again due to the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hglzRhKhMdg

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Murphy8166

Dorsey and RR used the Attwood Actuator...same parts.

I live about 15 minutes from RR

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petrie141

Dorsey and RR used the Attwood Actuator...same parts.

I live about 15 minutes from RR

We must not be far from each other then. We live in north Pflugerville

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Murphy8166

Roadrunner is north of Dallas by about 15 minutes. I live by the Galleria Mall

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petrie141

Roadrunner is north of Dallas by about 15 minutes. I live by the Galleria Mall

OHHHH you meant RR as in road runner. I thought you meant Round Rock. My fault

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eminent

the trailer on my 02 vlx was loud and clunky like that. It was just low on brake fluid I filled it up and it was all good after that no more slop

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pennery

I replaced an Attwood actuator on one of my trailers. It was a couple hundred bucks and took me a couple of hours to figure it out and bleed the lines after install. It was quite simple..

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petrie141

the trailer on my 02 vlx was loud and clunky like that. It was just low on brake fluid I filled it up and it was all good after that no more slop

Any idea what type of break fluid it takes?

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Ndawg12

DOT3 for the fluid

I have a 2012 Roadrunner and am less than impressed with it. All ready significant rust, Tie down Engineering parts(cheap), their customer service was a joke, 1 year non transferable warranty, and only single axle brakes on a 247 tandem axle trailer....???!!!

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Steve B.

Thanks for that link malibutime. I think mines working perfectly, but good to know that whole unit can be had for that price.

Steve B.

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petrie141

Well, I hoped it was just low on fluid, but that wasn't the case. I'm kind of thinking the breaks aren't working and the actuator and master cylinder need to be replaced. I honestly don't trust myself doing the repairs, anyone want to take a guess as to what it's going to cost? Any guesses are welcome.

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302Zapper

If it feels like its banging when pulling away and then on breaking are you sure you have the right size ball on your tow vehicle, just double check, usually a 2" but be100% sure you have it right.

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petrie141

If it feels like its banging when pulling away and then on breaking are you sure you have the right size ball on your tow vehicle, just double check, usually a 2" but be100% sure you have it right.

That was my first thought, but I have the right size ball. The coupler attaches snugly to the ball, that's not the part that wiggles around. Is the push rod assembly I believe thats the cause of the problem. No telling tho... I I don't know enough about it.

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