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fuel injector removal


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As per my previous post im going to remove and clean my injectors tomorrow. Any special tips or tricks? Looks pretty straight forward. Also going to check cap and rotor. P.O. said it was just replaced but going to look for myself. Also will check cannon plug.

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Remove the cross over hoses and set to the side. When you remove the allen bolts that hold the rails on make sure not to pinch or chafe the injector wires as the are sometimes in the way. When you get the bolts out I Highly suggest removing the spacer behind the rail and set to the side along with the allen bolt. You can either remove the wires on the injectors now or after you have wiggled the rail loose. Just be careful not to damage the connections, they are sometimes a pita to remove. The injectors will just pull out of the intake as well as the rail. It doesn't matter what order they go back in so you can mix em up. I pointed out removing the spacer behind the rail as it will fit perfectly in the hole now open in the intake where the injector was removed. You can remove the wire loom in the fuel rail if you wanna take the rail over to the bench for a little clean up as well. The wires in the loom will always be red/blue and red/green.

on one side of the engine blue will be to the inside and opposite on the other. Using the red straw that comes with a can of carburetor cleaner AND SAFETY GLASSES spray out the tops of the injectors until you can see the micro screen inside the top of the injector using a small flashlight. If they are really bad you will tempted to clean out the crud with a paperclip prior to spraying the carb cleaner, but try to resist this as the micro screen inside the inj. is fragile.

Re apply vasoline to the O rings prior to re installation. The ones near the source of the fuel input are typically the dirtiest.

re assemble in reverse order waiting to place the spacer on the allen bolt till after the injectors are in place plugging the holes in the intake.

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^^^^What he said.

If you discover a bunch of crud on top of the injectors, you have a choice at that point. Clean them as best you can yourself, as per the above, and reassemble to see if it made any difference.

Or you can go ahead and send them out for a proper cleaning. Most places use an ultrasonic cleaning method and supply new o-rings as part of the service.

If you've got an afternoon and easy access to the water and some refreshing beverages, I would do the former first. But even doing this, I would keep in mind that a professional cleanig would be in order at some point.

If you want to post some pictures of what you find, I can let you know how it compared to the condition of my injectors.

I was at around 4000 RPM WOT, and after the cleaning was back up to 5K. The fact that you are at 3K tells me you may have a more serious clogging issue, which is why I think you may be looking at a professional cleaning.

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I Made up a little tool like this too clean the injectors in my LSV. Just took a 9v battery and hooked it too a switch to pulse the injector manually. I just filled the bottom of the injector with some injector cleaner pulsed the switch and back flushed the injectors out. Seemed to work pretty well. Just throwing out options for ya.

IMG_20130420_105607_zps3e9e6f97.jpg

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Cleaned injectors. Pretty easy job. Also checked cannon plug. Will test tomorroa. Thanks for the responses. I also noticed loose connesctions on the back of my ignition switch. Not the wires, but tbe riveted prongs themselves. Will replace on monday.

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Edit: Oops should have read the whole thread before posting.

I just did this yesterday. I removed my intake plenum to get access and remove the injectors. On my Malibu there were 4 allen screws holding the fuel rail to the intake. Then you should be able to pull both injectors rails and injectors up. Unfortunately, my distrubter was in the way of the crossover hose and chose to just remove the injectors separately. I also used a 9 volt battery to open injectors while I used a small rinse bottle to pressure brake cleaner thru a hose connected to the Injector. You can see the spray pattern and tell when it unclogs.

Edited by VLXRonnie
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  • 7 years later...
On 7/13/2013 at 3:20 AM, grandude said:

Remove the cross over hoses and set to the side. When you remove the allen bolts that hold the rails on make sure not to pinch or chafe the injector wires as the are sometimes in the way. When you get the bolts out I Highly suggest removing the spacer behind the rail and set to the side along with the allen bolt. You can either remove the wires on the injectors now or after you have wiggled the rail loose. Just be careful not to damage the connections, they are sometimes a pita to remove. The injectors will just pull out of the intake as well as the rail. It doesn't matter what order they go back in so you can mix em up. I pointed out removing the spacer behind the rail as it will fit perfectly in the hole now open in the intake where the injector was removed. You can remove the wire loom in the fuel rail if you wanna take the rail over to the bench for a little clean up as well. The wires in the loom will always be red/blue and red/green.

on one side of the engine blue will be to the inside and opposite on the other. Using the red straw that comes with a can of carburetor cleaner AND SAFETY GLASSES spray out the tops of the injectors until you can see the micro screen inside the top of the injector using a small flashlight. If they are really bad you will tempted to clean out the crud with a paperclip prior to spraying the carb cleaner, but try to resist this as the micro screen inside the inj. is fragile.

Re apply vasoline to the O rings prior to re installation. The ones near the source of the fuel input are typically the dirtiest.

re assemble in reverse order waiting to place the spacer on the allen bolt till after the injectors are in place plugging the holes in the intake.

This is an excellent post, which both answers the question I was coming here to ask about wiring order blue-green-green-blue on one side, and reverse on the other, as well as warns about something I did yesterday, which was to drop the gol-darn spacer (fortunately not into the intake manifold).

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On 7/13/2013 at 6:20 AM, grandude said:

Remove the cross over hoses and set to the side. When you remove the allen bolts that hold the rails on make sure not to pinch or chafe the injector wires as the are sometimes in the way. When you get the bolts out I Highly suggest removing the spacer behind the rail and set to the side along with the allen bolt. You can either remove the wires on the injectors now or after you have wiggled the rail loose. Just be careful not to damage the connections, they are sometimes a pita to remove. The injectors will just pull out of the intake as well as the rail. It doesn't matter what order they go back in so you can mix em up. I pointed out removing the spacer behind the rail as it will fit perfectly in the hole now open in the intake where the injector was removed. You can remove the wire loom in the fuel rail if you wanna take the rail over to the bench for a little clean up as well. The wires in the loom will always be red/blue and red/green.

on one side of the engine blue will be to the inside and opposite on the other. Using the red straw that comes with a can of carburetor cleaner AND SAFETY GLASSES spray out the tops of the injectors until you can see the micro screen inside the top of the injector using a small flashlight. If they are really bad you will tempted to clean out the crud with a paperclip prior to spraying the carb cleaner, but try to resist this as the micro screen inside the inj. is fragile.

Re apply vasoline to the O rings prior to re installation. The ones near the source of the fuel input are typically the dirtiest.

re assemble in reverse order waiting to place the spacer on the allen bolt till after the injectors are in place plugging the holes in the intake.

TOTALLY agree on the spacer issue...I nearly dropped my down the injector hole...had a heart attack

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when I did mine, I sent them off for cleaning . Then I added an 8 micron high pressure filter in line after the fuel pump since mine did not come with one. I think that is key with the external 2 stage fuel pumps since I think the disintegration Inside them from the initial stage is what clogged the injection baskets. 

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I’m assuming you need to remove the intake manifold to get to the rail and injectors? I removed the 6 bolts, throttle cable, and the two connectors on the throttle body. It looks like there is one more connector on the manifold near the distributor. 
 

I tried lifting it off and it wouldn’t budge. Am I missing something or do I need to get out a pry bar or dead blow hammer? 
 

Thanks! 

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15 minutes ago, rakr said:

I’m assuming you need to remove the intake manifold to get to the rail and injectors? I removed the 6 bolts, throttle cable, and the two connectors on the throttle body. It looks like there is one more connector on the manifold near the distributor. 
 

I tried lifting it off and it wouldn’t budge. Am I missing something or do I need to get out a pry bar or dead blow hammer? 
 

Thanks! 

Remove the plenum cover, not the intake manifold below it.  Once you have the socket head cap screws out, it should pop up with a little force.  Maybe grab the back corner and lift, or maybe do as @Eagleboy99 and I do and just hit it with your purse.  If you are lucky, the gasket will come off in one piece....

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I don't recall how the plenum is on the '03+ Monsoon so it's different than mine, but mine was just a matter of removing the spark arrestor, 4 allen-head screws and the spacers between the rails and bosses, and it lifted out with a bit of finnagling.

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23 hours ago, rakr said:

Lol... I’ll grab my purse. 

Yeah, they should just come right out. A very small purse may be required, but be careful not to break anything. The two different Malibu’s I took them from in past was pretty easy. Maybe post a pic. 

Edited by BlindSquirrel
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the screws are all out now. I took a pic before I started yanking on it as I was pretty sure I’d be posting...
 

ECDD14C3-5DA0-45EE-AC2F-C7241273E63B.jpeg

Edited by rakr
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3 hours ago, UWSkier said:

I don't recall how the plenum is on the '03+ Monsoon so it's different than mine, but mine was just a matter of removing the spark arrestor, 4 allen-head screws and the spacers between the rails and bosses, and it lifted out with a bit of finnagling.

I’ll do a little more digging around to see if there is something else going on. I spent all of 15 min on it the other night. I’ve got Sunday “reserved” for this and staring on cap/rotor, wires, plug, fuel filter, and oil change. Any bets on how far I get!?!?!

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On 3/26/2021 at 9:29 PM, rakr said:

the screws are all out now. I took a pic before I started yanking on it as I was pretty sure I’d be posting...
 

ECDD14C3-5DA0-45EE-AC2F-C7241273E63B.jpeg

Yup, that looks just like the 2003 I helped with.  Maybe I used a 1x2 to gently pry it up; perhaps I forgot my purse that day. 

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By the way, while you have the plenum cover off is a great time to take your hacksaw and file to the back lip.  Somebody made that lip so that you can't get a regular fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve with the cover on.  Just saw a gap in the lip so that you can test the pressure with the engine running.  If you don't have a gauge, buy one and make sure it fits before you screw the cover back down. 

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Well, I left my purse inside and just grabbed my lace gloves and pulled up a bit on the back. It took an embarrassing little amount to get off after pulling “front to back vs. side to side”. 
 

next question... I don’t see a gasket...

DC120B45-B7BC-4B90-AFCE-8DD317B1A4C2.jpeg

E8EA851F-2FFF-44E0-9F6B-14759EF7DD0F.jpeg

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