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Biggest baddest SUV tow vehicle for under $15k?


shawndoggy

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Exactly what I was pushing for. That and a CAI

I am not seeing how pushing more fuel through the motor will make it run cooler? I'm not a physicist, but won't burning more fuel result in more heat not less?

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Shawn-

I think the best value for the buck for a tow vehicle is anything with the 6.0L GM. So Avalanches, 2500s, or the 1/2 ton workmaxes....

I think the cheapest value would be a used Avalance with the 6.0L or a used Tahoe/Yukon 3/4ton. i dont think gears matter for these weights when you get above 6.0L and bigger. you'll have plenty of torque and HP. if you get the low gears you burn more fuel at 65-75 and if you get the high gears you'll burn more gas 0-45. I think it"ll even out.

I am in the same boat. i would love to have a 6.0 or bigger and ideally a 3/4 dedicated tow vehicle that just stays with the trailer. how nice would it be to not have to unhitch ALL summer?

ha, I would LOVE to just leave a truck on the trailer... but that would require a new house too!

I drove a "beater" 8.1 'burb the other night and really liked the way it drove. There's no way the Mrs. would be seen in it tho, even if I could pick it up for only $5k.

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You'll have more power so you won't have to floor it.

But the power doesn't arrive from magic, it's the result of pushing more fuel through the motor, right?

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All I know is that a friend who lives in Colorado who tows over steep passes regularly had trouble with his 06 QX. He towed about what you do, maybe a little more. He put the supercharger on and it towed so much better.

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UPDATE: as a result of your cajoling the truck is at the radiator shop getting a new (aftermarket) radiator and full engine flush. If this works it's by far the cheapest route. We're planning on doing the "big tow" on Saturday and it's predicted to be hot as a mofo.

*** yes, I could screw around with it and maybe figure out a cheaper alternative, like just a flush and blowing out the fins as ruffdog suggests. However, the Mrs. drives the tow rig and hates driving my car because it's a manual transmission, so I'm going all in right off the bat to eliminate downtime. If this does not fix the issue, that's pretty much it, right? What else can I possibly do?

Oh and this issue has already been up the flagpole on clubarmada.com last summer, where I was told that the truck shouldn't be run at WOT towing a boat up a steep hill, with the AC on, 7 passengers and 100*+ temps. I'm not sure I disagree with that analysis.

To those who compare other grades... "highway" 49 is like that road from PeeWee's Big Adventure:

roadsign.jpg

highway 20 is a little better but both are undulating and have some very steep pitches. These aren't like a long sustained 5-6% interstate climb where you are maintaining momentum.

Edited by shawndoggy
  • Like 1
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UPDATE: as a result of your cajoling the truck is at the radiator shop getting a new (aftermarket) radiator and full engine flush. If this works it's by far the cheapest route. We're planning on doing the "big tow" on Saturday and it's predicted to be hot as a mofo.

*** yes, I could screw around with it and maybe figure out a cheaper alternative, like just a flush and blowing out the fins as ruffdog suggests. However, the Mrs. drives the tow rig and hates driving my car because it's a manual transmission, so I'm going all in right off the bat to eliminate downtime. If this does not fix the issue, that's pretty much it, right? What else can I possibly do?

Oh and this issue has already been up the flagpole on clubarmada.com last summer, where I was told that the truck shouldn't be run at WOT towing a boat up a steep hill, with the AC on, 7 passengers and 100*+ temps. I'm not sure I disagree with that analysis.

To those who compare other grades... "highway" 49 is like that road from PeeWee's Big Adventure:

roadsign.jpg

highway 20 is a little better but both are undulating and have some very steep pitches. These aren't like a long sustained 5-6% interstate climb where you are maintaining momentum.

Shawn,

Does the Q have electric or belt driven fan?

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Ruffdog will correct me if I'm wrong, but 99.999% sure it's electric.

If electric, there are probably 2 fans. Have the shop make sure that both are working. Sometimes just one will go bad and could be causing to your cooling problem. You should be able to keep your foot in it as long as you need without it overheating.

Edited by Tims
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LOL and on an 8 year old truck with 82k on the clock, I don't think I'm going to convince Nissan to take it back.

Is it supposed to be able to tow at WOT indefinitely? The problem is that on particular grades I'm either overgeared in 3rd or howling at WOT in 2nd. Really a shorter final drive ratio would fix my prob too, I think. Maybe I should put some really small Sentra wheels on and see how it does?

Sorry, didn't realize year and mileage issues.

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That Excursion will pull it for sure!

I got to drive a Diesel Excursion 4x4 out of the Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo once, a 15% grade in places, very fun. Amazing power.

cfiles45643.jpg

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UPDATE: as a result of your cajoling the truck is at the radiator shop getting a new (aftermarket) radiator and full engine flush. If this works it's by far the cheapest route. We're planning on doing the "big tow" on Saturday and it's predicted to be hot as a mofo.

*** yes, I could screw around with it and maybe figure out a cheaper alternative, like just a flush and blowing out the fins as ruffdog suggests. However, the Mrs. drives the tow rig and hates driving my car because it's a manual transmission, so I'm going all in right off the bat to eliminate downtime. If this does not fix the issue, that's pretty much it, right? What else can I possibly do?

Oh and this issue has already been up the flagpole on clubarmada.com last summer, where I was told that the truck shouldn't be run at WOT towing a boat up a steep hill, with the AC on, 7 passengers and 100*+ temps. I'm not sure I disagree with that analysis.

To those who compare other grades... "highway" 49 is like that road from PeeWee's Big Adventure:

roadsign.jpg

highway 20 is a little better but both are undulating and have some very steep pitches. These aren't like a long sustained 5-6% interstate climb where you are maintaining momentum.

Point taken!

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A supercharger will not solve your cooling problem. More power = more heat.

WOT with supercharger vs WOT N/A, absolutely.

2/3 throttle with supercharger vs WOT N/A, probably not.

Supercharger means you don't need to run WOT at 7k' elevation. Keep the truck in 3rd gear and plug along.

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Ruffdog will correct me if I'm wrong, but 99.999% sure it's electric.

There are both belt-driven and electric fans on my Titan. Electric fan will run whenever I'm flashing an ECU image with my programmer. Belt-driven must be on a clutch of some sort cause when it's really really hot, the fan will be crazy loud for the first few hundred yards when taking off with the engine heat soaked from sitting or idling.

Edited by UWSkier
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I got to drive a Diesel Excursion 4x4 out of the Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo once, a 15% grade in places, very fun. Amazing power.

cfiles45643.jpg

looks like a fun road to ride a bicycle on... does it get lots of traffic (I note no shoulder)?

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looks like a fun road to ride a bicycle on... does it get lots of traffic (I note no shoulder)?

Not that much traffic, but...some of it is motorhomes and travel trailers. On the same trip, I drove the rented Fleetwood Revolution LE up and down that road. 40 something plus feet, with a catapiller pusher. Pretty hairy drive for a flat

lander. (similar to the photo) I wouldn't want to be pedaling on a bike when a rookie motorhome driver comes around the corner in one of these

30216022-313-2005-FLEETWOOD-REVOLUTION-L

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I think the best value for the buck for a tow vehicle is anything with the 6.0L GM. So Avalanches, 2500s, or the 1/2 ton workmaxes....

The Avalanche won't work from a people hauling perspective...and sadly the 6.0 was only put in them from '07-09 and there aren't a lot of the 6.0 Avalanches around (and '09 is the year to get as it is the first year with the 6-speed tranny).

6.2L motor would be the best way to go (L92/L9H/L94), but in SUV form your only choices are going to be mostly out of your budget (or the typical super high mileage beater):

'07+ Yukon Denali

'07+ Escalade

'09 Tahoe

'08+ H2

For examples of the above, I checked Autotrader for Yukon Denali's in your price rage in the US the lowest mileage one was 170k miles. No '09 Tahoes in your budget on Autotrader with that motor and no '08+ H2's at all for that price. I did see a couple '07 Escalades with 120-130k range which would be your closest bet and probably the vehicle to focus on if you want this motor.

Also, GM went to the current body style trucks/suv's (well, until the 2014 model trucks start rolling out) in 2007, the GMT900 platform. You would be well served buying a 2007 over a 2006 as there were a lot of improvements/upgrades/updates, even if it meant stretching the budget a bit more.

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LOL maybe it's a function of fuel economy, but there seem to be a lot more "low mileage" (like low 100's) gasser 8.1s out there than 7.3's. Yes, the diesel will run forever, I know. But miles also wear their ravages on suspsension, interior, paint, etc., and the couple of 7.3s I've driven in the 180k+ range were wallowing barges that would barely stay in their lanes at 35. The fact that they both were crabbing probably didn't help. I've also driven a chipped 04 6.0 with only about 68k miles and it drove like a dream. I know, run don't walk from a chipped 6.0.

I let a low miles (65k?) 7.3 get away in the fall... it had a lift, which I definitely don't want.

13k for a 7.3 with 190k on the clock? Holy smokes. I guess that's my issue too.

Shawn,

I can tell you that the 8.1 will serve everything you need, as your stated everything else on the truck/suv will need replacing regardless of the engine choice. I’ve driven my truck w/ the 8.1/Allison combo towing a loaded trailer 11k, when all loaded, over 7 passes in the Sierra down to Mammoth. It preformed exactly as I needed it to and never let me down. The 7.3 didn’t have that much more torque, than the 8.1, but it is a highly coveted engine and would be a good choice if you decided to go diesel. I did consider one at one point…ya ya I know even looked at Furds. J Highway driving I get between 7-9 towing the boat depending on where I’m driving and how heavy footed I am. Dry highway driving I can get up to 14 on flat ground if I keep it under 60, so no never see that..lol I can tell you the only problem I encountered thus far is the drives side exhaust manifold is not to be found, had to get one from a wrecking yard after thinking mine was cracked. Turned out not to be just a gasket replacement, but they are like gold used it was $300. Another crewmember I ski with regularly has the 6.0 2500 and imho would also tow the boat just fine. Cost wise the 6.0 will be the least costly and will get about 1-2 mpg better than the 8.1. The only two ways to really wake up the 8.1 is remove the TM and add a supercharger, neither I need to do and TM removal can cause a lot of damage if not done correctly. I maybe biased to the 8.1 but you'll have to rip it out of my cold dead hands....I drive it just because on earth day.

Yes the small tank is a problem at times, fully admit that, but to say that a diesel is as fun to drive…um not even close. For the price difference when I was looking to upgrade my ½ ton I could rebuild my engine twice. Another problem is some of the communities you go thru to your favorite secret lake getting diesel could be an issue. It’s been an issue in some remote locations where they only had regular or plus gas no diesel or super/supreme.

North San Juan…lol think deliverance…

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Shawn- you are battling the same problems I had with my first boat and Chevy Trailblazer with the 5.3L. It wanted to overheat constantly and could never get it solved, that was with a 5000lb tow.

I tried everything, at one point I had their entire radiator shroud, fan and all that removed at a custom truck shop and had them instal a thermostat controlled Flex-a Lite electric twin fan cooling unit in place of the OEM belt driven fan and fan clutch. What a POS and a waste of money. Then I it took to another Chevy dealer and had them install a new clutch and fan. Still wanted to overheat while towing. At that point I was done with that vehicle, wasted so much money trying to get it right.

My towed my 247 and a 9000lb RV on 2 separate trips from VA to OK with this Tundra...steepest mountains were in TN east of Knoxville... semi's down to 15mph it was so steep, I was able to maintain 45mph, heat of the Day in July, no hint of overheat whatsoever.

Edited by nyryan2001
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Supercharger will not fix the cooling issue.

Make sure your AC condenser is clean and free of bugs and rocks. Also be sure the fins are not bent. A free path of airflow is important.

Since the TCC (Torque Convertor Clutch) is probably unlocked the trans is probably making a little more heat than usual. The high load will add some heat as the TCC slips a bit.

This will also help a bit. Add an auxiliary trans cooler inline and BEFORE the radiator. This will help cool the trans fluid before it enters the radiator. This will help the cooling system quite a bit. Try finding a place to mount the new cooler that is NOT in front of the radiator.

I ran this cooler in my Mustang. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13950/overview/ I actually placed this cooler under the car near the trans. It would be easy to tap into the trans cooler exit line and just run a 12v relay and switch. Flip the switch, fan turns on, and then the trans fluid might get cool enough to actually help cool the coolant. For the money this would be the best way to help remove some heat from the coolant.

What ever you do don't add a tuner or a supercharger. More power is more heat and most tuners actually lean out the AFR and add timing to make tiny gains.

Edited by Big Jay D
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The Avalanche won't work from a people hauling perspective...and sadly the 6.0 was only put in them from '07-09 and there aren't a lot of the 6.0 Avalanches around (and '09 is the year to get as it is the first year with the 6-speed tranny).

6.2L motor would be the best way to go (L92/L9H/L94), but in SUV form your only choices are going to be mostly out of your budget (or the typical super high mileage beater):

'07+ Yukon Denali

'07+ Escalade

'09 Tahoe

'08+ H2

For examples of the above, I checked Autotrader for Yukon Denali's in your price rage in the US the lowest mileage one was 170k miles. No '09 Tahoes in your budget on Autotrader with that motor and no '08+ H2's at all for that price. I did see a couple '07 Escalades with 120-130k range which would be your closest bet and probably the vehicle to focus on if you want this motor.

Also, GM went to the current body style trucks/suv's (well, until the 2014 model trucks start rolling out) in 2007, the GMT900 platform. You would be well served buying a 2007 over a 2006 as there were a lot of improvements/upgrades/updates, even if it meant stretching the budget a bit more.

The current GMT-900 came out in 2007.5, the The classic was available in early '07.

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