Trailer Brake Fluid & shock absorber in UFP Actuator

[oceanbu]

Can't seem to find a definitive answer on this from my searches so thought I would ask here.

Left all the manuals that came with the boat at the cabin over the winter and now getting the boat ready for summer and take back up to cabin.

What brake fluid can I use in my trailer? It is an 2007 Extreme dual axle trailer with UFP actuator. On the web it says it is either DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Does it matter which one, either DOT 3 or DOT 4, I put in to top it up?

Also I think the shock absorber in my actuator is shot because it clunks so bad when accelerating from a stop. Could this be due to needing to top up brake fluid or most likely shock absorber needs to be replaced.

I see on the UFP manual it says you can do it yourself but I am just wondering how much of a PIA it would be. Anyone done it themselves or have experience with this and shed some light?

[Asmodeus2112]

I love this site for UFP Actuators. I think it's easiest to buy a new inner member than trying to fix it.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Brake-Actuator-Replacement-Parts-for-Disc-Drum-brakes/

[Asmodeus2112]

Pistol Pete had a lot of good info on brake fluid a while back, do a search and you should find. I think the important thing is not to mix them.

[Asmodeus2112]

If it clunks badly, the master cylinder is probably empty and you don't really have any brakes. The shock is mostly for preventing it from pulsing while braking.

Also, people have mentioned having luck calling the trailer manufacturer for information. They could tell you what fluid they installed as stock.

Edited May 30, 2013 by Asmodeus2112

[oceanbu]

If it clunks badly, the master cylinder is probably empty and you don't really have any brakes. The shock is mostly for preventing it from pulsing while braking.

Also, people have mentioned having luck calling the trailer manufacturer for information. They could tell you what fluid they installed as stock.

I haven't had a chance to check the brake fluid yet but I am wondering maybe I just need to fill it up. I know it has either DOT 3 or DOT 4 in it. Think if I use DOT 4 to top it off that would be okay?

[built2rev]

Can't seem to find a definitive answer on this from my searches so thought I would ask here.

Left all the manuals that came with the boat at the cabin over the winter and now getting the boat ready for summer and take back up to cabin.

What brake fluid can I use in my trailer? It is an 2007 Extreme dual axle trailer with UFP actuator. On the web it says it is either DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Does it matter which one, either DOT 3 or DOT 4, I put in to top it up?

Also I think the shock absorber in my actuator is shot because it clunks so bad when accelerating from a stop. Could this be due to needing to top up brake fluid or most likely shock absorber needs to be replaced.

I see on the UFP manual it says you can do it yourself but I am just wondering how much of a PIA it would be. Anyone done it themselves or have experience with this and shed some light?

1st. yes you can use either dot 3 or dot 4 either one will work just fine. As far as the shock. I myself just replaced the whole slide assembly over the weekend. I figured it was easier then pulling it out and messing with replacing just the shock only. but my trailer was pretty rough when I got it so I just wanted to replace the whole thing. If your trailer mainly the master cylinder is in good shape just replace the shock. The part that was the biggest pia was bleeding the brake system. Check out Pacific trailer

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Brake-Actuator-Replacement-Parts-for-Disc-Drum-brakes/

they should have all the pieces you need.

2nd yes my clunked pretty bad on take off now works nice and smooth..

[Asmodeus2112]

Bleeding is a huge PITA. If the reservoir was dry and the actuator freely sliding, I bet there is a good chance the master needs to be replace as well. Usually easier to just jump ahead to replacing the inner member. Local trailer places stock them here in Austin, maybe in your neck of the woods as well.

[REW]

Replaced my shock over the winter. The worst part was bleeding the breaks again, the shock was easy to do. Also mine clunked most of last season now works great.

[nuttyskier2002]

It will clunk when low of brake fluid. And as said above.....you have no brakes right now. I would try filling and bleeding first. If it hasn't gone very long without fluid the master cylinder is probably ok. You can't go for very long without checking fluid on these things. The system doesn't hold much more fluid than just what's in the lines and MC. Bleed just like you do a car......except.........get a long pry bar (4 feet or more)........dig a small hole in the ground and place one end of the pry bar in that hole and push against the trailer hitch with the mid section while holding the bar at the top. Tighten the bleeder screw and then pull out by hand. I know this sounds primitive but it works. It is a tough job but the longer the pry bar the easier it will be of course.

[REW]

Just need a screw driver for bleeding. there is a small hole under the unit just beind the ball receiver that you can use to operate the master cylender without compressing the shock absorber.

As stated above the unit holds very little fluid, refill often during the bleeding process

[MalibuKarl]

If it clunks badly, the master cylinder is probably empty and you don't really have any brakes. The shock is mostly for preventing it from pulsing while braking.

Also, people have mentioned having luck calling the trailer manufacturer for information. They could tell you what fluid they installed as stock.

He said it was (unfortunately) and Extreme trailer - good luck finding anyone to answer you - let alone get a hold of. Hopefully all of the dealers have learned their lesson and quit using Extreme.

[oceanbu]

So I guess first step is top up and bleed the brakes or totally change fluid (cause I have never done it) and bleed brakes and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise may just buy new inner member of actuator instead of just replacing shock absorber so I know everything is new in there.

[Agman]

I replaced my inner member last year and it was easy. Having that peace of mind that everything is new and working is worth the few dollars of a new one.

[EchelonMike]

I just ordered a new UFP a60 actuator assembly from Shadow Trailer via Amazon for $179 incl shipping. Will install it this weekend. Regarding brake bleeding, I bought a mighty vac from harbor freight for a few bucks. It has a bleeder fitting that comes with the kit. I have a friend keep the reservoir full of fluid while I add pressure at the caliper with the vac and pull the fluid and any air right through the line. Takes all of 5 min to get it done. Start on the side where the main line feeds, then finish on the opposite side. Good luck!

[Houston]

I have a Dorsey trailer, and my brakes quit, with clunking as above. Saw fluid leaking from the trailer frame where the main line is routed. I'm thinking the tubing somehow sprang a leak. Putting a new tube in will be a real pia.

[saskicker32]

If I buy a new inner member and one of the hand pump vacuum kits should this be a simple install? I have had problems since day one with these brakes and don't know whats wrong (2003 Extreme trailer, dual axle, brakes on the rear axle). I bought this boat two years ago and the brakes always locked up too early in my opinion and would lurch. I think I want the piece of mind to get a new inner slide and then bleed the brakes with fresh fluid.

[WheelerWake]

dual axle, brakes on the rear axle

This really seams like a bad design, the brakes are getting all the pressure from the actuator, yet only have half the weight of the boat on the axle, causing the tires to lock up.

[Bozboat]

If I buy a new inner member and one of the hand pump vacuum kits should this be a simple install? I have had problems since day one with these brakes and don't know whats wrong (2003 Extreme trailer, dual axle, brakes on the rear axle). I bought this boat two years ago and the brakes always locked up too early in my opinion and would lurch. I think I want the piece of mind to get a new inner slide and then bleed the brakes with fresh fluid.

My brakes are on the front axle. 2007 extreme trailer.

[edwin]

I use a Motive Power Bleeder with a custom made fitting for the boat trailer reservoir. You can bleed the entire system in less than 10 mins. I use the same thing on my car, trucks, etc.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0106?seid=srese1&gclid=CL-lvt2hw70CFU4R7AodvSsAHg

[Dodger40]

I realize this might be a lame question, but if I add fluid to my reservoir and it still has fluid in it I don't need to bleed it do I ?

Also when I back up my brakes will sometimes lock up. My solution is to unplug the lights, then plug it back in. It usually works the first time, but not always. Do I need to replace something ?

[leclerc457]

My trailer brakes are super touchy when baking up on any sort of incline. I always have to put the key in to prevent the actuator from engaging. Is this normal??

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[WheelerWake]

It's normal if you don't have the 5 way trailer plug (5th wire connects to backup lights).

[WheelerWake]

I realize this might be a lame question, but if I add fluid to my reservoir and it still has fluid in it I don't need to bleed it do I ?

Also when I back up my brakes will sometimes lock up. My solution is to unplug the lights, then plug it back in. It usually works the first time, but not always. Do I need to replace something ?

If there is still fluid you don't need to bleed.

The unplug/plug problem sounds like a connection problem with the plug.

[leclerc457]

It's normal if you don't have the 5 way trailer plug (5th wire connects to backup lights).

I do have the 5 way trailer plug. So the 5th wire is supposed to override the brakes? Guess I need to check my wiring!!

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[Bill_AirJunky]

I love this site for UFP Actuators. I think it's easiest to buy a new inner member than trying to fix it.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Brake-Actuator-Replacement-Parts-for-Disc-Drum-brakes/

Thanks for posting that link. I don't know how long I've been missing that stupid outer cap on my trailer. I always seem to forget about it unless I'm staring at the fact that it's not there. On that list of parts, I saw the UFP Brake Lockout Cap for $11 & it reminded me of it. DONE!!

I don't really need the lockout cap for my own truck. But figured it would be nice if someone else was ever towing my boat.

Also, I've had instances when the boat is not on the trailer, going down a steep hill & the trailer brakes lock up causing the trailer to HOP all the way down the hill. Maybe this lockout cap will solve that issue too.