Putting a New Stereo In & Need Help/Advice!

[mr7]

Hey Crew,

Putting a new stereo in our 2006 Sunsetter LSV in the next week or two. Unlike most people I've read about on here, we want to do something moderate. Not looking to blow up the lake, just a respectable system (for listening to while swimming, floating, or cruising). Our budget is around $600. Wanted your opinions/ advice before we did it all, as this is our first time.

Currently: we have a Dual Marine Head Unit and 6 Memphis Car Audio speakers. Aside from being subpar in quality, they've gotten to the point where they need to be replaced. Also, the speakers are only being driven off the head unit which reads 200W, but I think that would be peak power & not RMS?

What we are looking to do: We want to add 6 Polk db651's for the interior speakers and a Clarion M303 Head Unit. As for an amp, I really like the Rockford Fosgate M400 Class-D 4 Channel Amp (400W). We also want to re-run all the wiring for the stereo.

Those with experience, will this be a nice upgrade (sound quality/ volume)?

Any tips for installation?

[shawndoggy]

Driving speakers from an amp will be the biggest upgrade. It will be louder and clearer. To make it a true night and day upgrade, I'd strongly recommend adding a modest sub. Adding some "bottom" to the sound, and high passing the cabin speakers, will give you more dynamic range and will really improve sound quality.

[Levi900RR]

Watching this thread closely. I'll be in this same situation soon...

[Earmark Marine]

matt,

Definitely add the amplifier. You have no idea what the potential of your existing speakers are until you power them better. Any limitations you hear now are the source unit running out of power and not the speakers.

The additional power will make a big difference in cruising. But I have got to reset your expectations when it comes to swimming or relaxing on a tube or raft outside of the boat. You will not get the sound to project at any distance away from the boat at any amplitude when the speakers are down in the bathtub so to speak and the sound must flow over the gunnels and down to the water level. This takes directional and dedicated speakers from above the deck cap to accomplish this.

There are temporary (stored in the locker until used at your destination), inexpensive patio-type speakers that will do this very well at rest. And via a switch you can redirect the amplifier power to these speakers so that you do not need to have redundant amplification.

David

[CliffB]

matt,

Definitely add the amplifier. You have no idea what the potential of your existing speakers are until you power them better. Any limitations you hear now are the source unit running out of power and not the speakers.

The additional power will make a big difference in cruising. But I have got to reset your expectations when it comes to swimming or relaxing on a tube or raft outside of the boat. You will not get the sound to project at any distance away from the boat at any amplitude when the speakers are down in the bathtub so to speak and the sound must flow over the gunnels and down to the water level. This takes directional and dedicated speakers from above the deck cap to accomplish this.

There are temporary (stored in the locker until used at your destination), inexpensive patio-type speakers that will do this very well at rest. And via a switch you can redirect the amplifier power to these speakers so that you do not need to have redundant amplification.

David

Ditto all that. Spot on.

One thought though, if you're like me you want to keep the sound in the bathtub....I know out here in Seattle blasting your music across the lake (sound really travels across water) is frowned upon.

A real basic system can be a 5 channel amp with four amp'd speakers, and an amp'd sub. Bolt the sub solidly to the floor...just sitting on the floor will lose a lot of the potential base. Solder your connections rather than crimp and use good cables. Ground everything to a single heavy ground and common power source. A good quality 10 inch tube sub can work well. Make sure the speakers are solidly mounted to the inner boat structure, ideally within ported enclosures, and pointed in a complimentary direction (complimentary to the boat occupants). Personally, I like Blaupunkt gear and have their poly 6's and amp and head unit and sub in my old 'Bu Skier and it sounds fantastic.

Sure, you could always do more and make your system a monster, but really now, for most folks that's just not necessary. If you wear your pants halfway down your legs, and have your ball cap on sideways and say "dude" and "whap up" a lot then the above doesn't apply to you.

Edited May 29, 2013 by CliffB

[mr7]

Has anyone hooked up the amp/ and or stereo to an accessory switch on the instrument panel? Can they carry that much current?

[Bradley Thornton]

Stereo yes amp just use the remote wire. If you do this you may want to add this to make it look a little better.

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1225

[skyskier]

Where are you in Va? If you are near Lake Anna I have a friend who can help.

[MLA]

Has anyone hooked up the amp/ and or stereo to an accessory switch on the instrument panel? Can they carry that much current?

The head-unit's red turn-on wire draws very low current, so any simple toggle or rocker can handle that. The amp's turn-on I prefer to let the head-unit take care of that via the head-units amp turn-on circuit.

[Nitrousbird]

Memphis makes some very good stuff...but feeing it likely 18 watts RMS or less isn't going to cut it. Where that may work in an automotive environment on a boat it isn't sufficient even on a conservative setup.

Now assuming the speakers are bad, the DB651's are a great bang for the buck speaker. At $55 shipped they are hard to beat for the price: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-6-5-Inch-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369878034&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+db651

I know you can do better than the Rockform M400 for the money. It's a 75x4 amp, right around $200. The PPI 900.4 will put out WAY more power for less money: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html

That said, you really need a sub. I run the Polk D5000.5 for my inboats and sub and would work very well for you (and is marine rated): http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39895_Polk-Audio-PA-D5000.5-PAD5000.5.html

Sub wise you have a ton of choices. I have an Exile SX12D but there are many other subs to choose from that would work as well.

For head units, are you really bringing CD on the boat. If so...umm...why? Save some money and get the 502 instead: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43931_Clarion-M502.html

My source unit stuff is all Alpine but not as budget friendly as the Clarion stuff. I would likely consider going the 502 route if I did it all over (though I'm happy with my Alpine gear).

Also, if you are rewiring, relocate your head unit to under the dash instead of the damn arm rest. I can't believe I didn't do it sooner - so worth it:

[mr7]

Thanks for all the help guys, greatly appreciated. The last thing I'm deciding between is the PPI 900W.4 amp and the Rockford Fosgate 400W.4. They are both class-D amplifiers, but I'm not sure if the PPI would be overkill or if I would even hear the difference. I have decided for sure to go with the Polk db651's which claim up to 180W in power handling.

Do any of you guys have experience with either of these 2 amps? I'd really like to get something that has adjustable crossovers, and audio signal processing features. Opinions?

As far as the sub goes, we decided we are going to put this in first, listen & then have a better idea about where to go with a sub. (so we'd just get another amp in the future).

[CRF-Rider]

I have experience with both. The PPI is by FAR the better choice. Having overheard is nice, so don't worry about overkill. The PPI has a great selection of crossovers, and is one of the few amps capable of running active. I run pro audio mids and supertweets on my boat. Here's a video of a speaker box I made for a friends Polaris UTV. It has 4 6.5" mids and 2 supertweets. I have a PPI p900.4 powering it.

[Buggsdan]

I would definetly go with the PPI. I have almost the identical setup in my boat and even without tower speakers, I can hear the music just fine while wake boarding. I probably spend more time behind the boat than in it.

[wakedncsu]

Nitrous, do you have any documentation on how you moved your radio down there?

[mr7]

Would you guys concerned that the PPI doesn't say marine or sold as a marine amp? It would be in the battery compartment, but that would be my only point of contention.

Also, any thoughts/ comments on the infinity 10" powered sub?

[shawndoggy]

Infinity basslink is great for what it is. It really sounds pretty good. Comes in a plastic box, so it's "marine." It won't win any bass contests, but it adds a lot of bottom to a modest system without a sub.

I wouldn't worry about marine rating too much at your budget. Polk sells a similar amp for a little more money that is "marine" but I've never seen pics of the board to see if the polk boards are actually conformal coated.

[Nitrousbird]

The last thing I'm deciding between is the PPI 900W.4 amp and the Rockford Fosgate 400W.4. They are both class-D amplifiers, but I'm not sure if the PPI would be overkill or if I would even hear the difference. I have decided for sure to go with the Polk db651's which claim up to 180W in power handling.

I have the Polk version of the PPI (D4000.4). Very nice amp. The 651's are rated for 180 watt peak, which is meaningless. They are a 60 watt RMS speaker. That said, it is better to have an overkill amp turned down than one that is underkill. Besides the PPI is cheaper so I'm not really seeing where you benefit getting the Rockford.

Nitrous, do you have any documentation on how you moved your radio down there?

Here is my stereo thread: http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/42618-just-finished-my-stereowiring-install-pictures-inside/

I don't really have any documentation; I bought an under-dash Metra kit and mounted it. Wasn't all that hard to be honest...I have no clue why more people don't do it.

Would you guys concerned that the PPI doesn't say marine or sold as a marine amp? It would be in the battery compartment, but that would be my only point of contention.

Also, any thoughts/ comments on the infinity 10" powered sub?

I wouldn't care about the Marine rating. If you care, the Polk D4000.4 is marine rated.

My boat came with the Infinity Basslink you are referencing when I bought it. It is probably one of the best all-in-one subs out there. Does it hit nearly as hard, deep, or cleanly as my Exile? Nope - and no one should expect it to. It was better than I thought it would be...would be a poor choice for my current setup but would probably be a good match for what you are planning.

If you are interested in the Basslink, I might be willing to sell mine. I was thinking about putting it in my company vehicle, but if I can get $120 shipped for it I'd be willing to part with it. Works perfectly, isn't in mint looking condition but is presentable.

[DAC]

I just did a very similar upgrade. Added a Polk D4000 amp, 4 mm651's, and an infinity basslink sub. Was torn between getting a marine amp and the PPI amp, decided to split it and get the marine amp but the infinity basslink sub (not marine). Also added a clarion eq. Equipment total was about $750. VERY happy with the sound. Agree, the sub makes a big difference and the basslink was an affordable all in one package.

Also added a the Paxuoton bluetooth adapter that works really well.

[wakedncsu]

did you have PP before this? My PP module would be in the way. Did you have to relocate yours?

[Nitrousbird]

did you have PP before this? My PP module would be in the way. Did you have to relocate yours?

Yes, I installed my PP setup last year. I didn't have to relocate mine because I didn't install it in the way.

[TallRedRider]

Has anyone hooked up the amp/ and or stereo to an accessory switch on the instrument panel? Can they carry that much current?

I have done it and I think it is a must have for any stereo system. I turn off the switch and everything turns off. I put it to one of the rockers on the dash and replaced the cover with the music symbol from Bake's, and even my wife can figure out how to turn on the radio now.

[stoffs]

Hi Everyone,

I apologies if this is a rather stupid question. But I just bought an 23foot 2006 LSV and am redoing the entire system. Something along the lines of what Nitrousbird has done. 4 Tower speakers 6 in boat and 1 sub. My Question is what is the best option for powering all 6 inboat speakers. Ill be buying polk mm 651's for all 6 in boat speakers. Havent decided on the towers yet and the sub, but just trying to get my head around the setup. What would be a good amp for powering all six in boat speakers and how do you do that? And then would I need a separate amp for the sub and another amp to power all four tower speakers?

Im sorry again, but any advice would be very appreciated. Budget is around $2500.

Thanks guys.

[Nitrousbird]

Hi Everyone,

I apologies if this is a rather stupid question. But I just bought an 23foot 2006 LSV and am redoing the entire system. Something along the lines of what Nitrousbird has done. 4 Tower speakers 6 in boat and 1 sub. My Question is what is the best option for powering all 6 inboat speakers. Ill be buying polk mm 651's for all 6 in boat speakers. Havent decided on the towers yet and the sub, but just trying to get my head around the setup. What would be a good amp for powering all six in boat speakers and how do you do that? And then would I need a separate amp for the sub and another amp to power all four tower speakers?

Im sorry again, but any advice would be very appreciated. Budget is around $2500.

Thanks guys.

The challenge for powering 6 MM651's is that they are not 4ohm speakers, but rather 2.7ohm. With a 4-channel, 4 speaker setup this is rather ideal as most 4-channel amps are 2ohm stable so you get more power out of the amp.

But with 6 speakers, you will either need to do a 6 channel amp or run a pair of the speakers in series. Instead, my suggestion would be to get the Polk MM651UM speakers instead. They are only slightly more expensive and even more marine rated and are 4-ohm as well. Both the regular and UM speakers are rated for 100 watts RMS. I'd power them off of a Polk D4000.4, with 2 pairs in parallel and one straight to the other channel. Will give 100 watts RMS to 4 of the speakers and 125 watts to the other pair.

[shawndoggy]

my ebay sourced mm651um's say 3 ohms on the magnet, fwiw, ymmv, etc.

[Nitrousbird]

my ebay sourced mm651um's say 3 ohms on the magnet, fwiw, ymmv, etc.

I think that is because of the external crossover and perhaps the tweeter. My MM651's say 2ohm on the magnet. I took an ohm meter to the input leads of the crossover with the speakers hooked up and it was right below 3ohm if I recall correctly.