DIY Oil Change Monsoon

[srab]

$84 shipped to the door worth it for a puller? Amazon

Bakes has them for $48.75 plus shipping. Discount Inboard Marine has them for $49 plus shipping. If you order over $99 worth from Bakes

(not difficult to do if you need additional stuff), shipping is free.

Yes, for far less than the price of a single tank of gasoline, you'll guarantee effortless impeller changes for as long as you own your boat.

[shawndoggy]

Fuel Filter:

[WakeGirl]

Fuel Filter:

Yes, this is what you want.

[shawndoggy]

Other potential oil filters:

Oil filter: Napa Gold 1069

Merc. 35-802885T or newer 35-866340K01

Penn. PZ3, NAPA gold 1069, AC PF25

Penske PN30, Fram PH30, Puro. L20049

Castrol CM30, Motorcraft FL10,

Quaker State QS30, Wix 51069

(Of course we all know only a total Wally uses a fram)

Other potential fuel filter: wix 33299 (1/2" fuel line)

[TrickyNicky]

What's wrong with a fram? Am I Wally? I think I've used them before.

[Bill_AirJunky]

What's wrong with a fram? Am I Wally? I think I've used them before.

Google it...... "oil filter test", "fram oil filter quality", etc. I've personally never had a problem with it, but there are plenty of stories out there.

A buddy of mine just bought a 1996 29' Tioga class C RV with a Ford 460 in it. It has like 50k miles on it. We put maybe 1500 miles on it on a couple of trips. Changed the oil on one time, and used a Fram filter from Oreillys. His brother took it steelhead fishing & on the way home, the engine seized up. No problems indicated on the gauges, no weird noises till the very end. The mechanic pulled the engine & they said it was oil starvation. PIckup tube was in place & not clogged. Oil pan was full. He said it could be only two things, oil filter or oil pump. The oil pump was of course seized too so we don't know if that happened as a result or if it caused the whole mess. But a Ford oil pump only getting 50k miles is pretty rare.

[shawndoggy]

Religion politics and oil filters. All landmines in polite conversation.

[FastFreddy]

Someone mentioned to check the v-drive cooler for debris. I removed the 1" 1/2 hose that goes from the hull to the v-drive but I can't see in there since there is a 90 degree elbow. Do I pop the top off with the 6 bolts? or do I remove the elbow? I didn't want to remove the elbow since it looks like plastic and it's 14 years old.

[shawndoggy]

other side of the vdrive where the long hose comes out and goes towards the back of the boat. Between the vdrive and the raw water pump (where the impeller is) along that hose is a beercan shaped sort of thing that is the tranny cooler.

[FastFreddy]

other side of the vdrive where the long hose comes out and goes towards the back of the boat. Between the vdrive and the raw water pump (where the impeller is) along that hose is a beercan shaped sort of thing that is the tranny cooler.

Ok so there is no screen to check on the v-drive only on the transmission cooler.

Thanks

[skurfer]

Impeller pullers work great. If you don't have one. Take the impeller cover off, lube with something, bump engine over, grab one of the bottom splines on the impeller with small vice grips, pull and shake/vibrate a bit as you pull. Should come right out. Or the paint can openers. The key is: even pressure. Will come right out. I think that's why impeller pullers work so well. They apply even pressure....

Edited May 24, 2013 by skurfer

[LUV2SKI]

Ok so there is no screen to check on the v-drive only on the transmission cooler.

Thanks

I Check for debris in the tranny cooler as well.

Edited May 24, 2013 by LUV2SKI

[Web]

Also as somebody mentioned earlier, you might only get 5.5 qts of oil in your motor. Please pay attention so you dont over fill. I never vot more than 5.5 in my 03.

[MalibuWantToBe]

Impeller pullers work great. If you don't have one. Take the impeller cover off, lube with something, bump engine over, grab one of the bottom splines on the impeller with small vice grips, pull and shake/vibrate a bit as you pull. Should come right out. Or the paint can openers. The key is: even pressure. Will come right out. I think that's why impeller pullers work so well. They apply even pressure....

I know many people like the Impeller pullers, I broke mine on the first use. I had it installed correctly and started winding it down an it collapsed. I think mine was from Bakes. I spent over an hour trying to get it out. Then grabbed two paint can openers, one on each side and pushed down. It didn't come out with one push, but probably 3 pushes and it popped out. In less then a minute I had it out. Changed it for the second time last October, and again using paint can openers, had it out in a minute.

Good Luck

[MalibuWantToBe]

Does anyone have a picture of the 'oil hose' on an Indmar LCR 320? I will probably end up buying a pump at one point, but plan to change the oil this weekend the old fashion way. I don't have the boat in front of me so it maybe obvious when I look at the engine, but posting questions when I'm in the middle of the process is sometimes tough.

Thanks in advance.

[shawndoggy]

its pretty much the only hose coming out of the bottom of the oil pan on the port side.

[Malibudude]

Does anyone have a picture of the 'oil hose' on an Indmar LCR 320? I will probably end up buying a pump at one point, but plan to change the oil this weekend the old fashion way. I don't have the boat in front of me so it maybe obvious when I look at the engine, but posting questions when I'm in the middle of the process is sometimes tough.

Thanks in advance.

If your looking at the transom just behind the rear seat you should see the oil (garden hose) that ti attached to the block with a large paper clip type object. I then run the garden hose next to the tranny through the brass thru hull drain plug.

I use a cut 2-lite bottle under the oil filter, I usually let the boat oil drain for a day or two and have never had my filter leak. I use the Napa Gold 1069. I also fill the new filter up before I put it on.

[FastFreddy]

Wow, I'm suprised the PO wasn't complaining of overheating, check out what I found in the tranny cooler today! I decided to check it after this tread even though the old impeller I pulled out was still in good condition.

Thanks to LUV2SKI and ShawnDoggy.

[Air Tahoe]

So does this look like the right stuff? Just made a run to the auto store and the guy helped me pick out these equivalents.

Photo here: http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii568/icloud22/FB605A03-E579-4BE6-84F9-B4E3E6EE39B8-1568-000000BAE7EE9A07_zpsc3d3a1d5.jpg~original

[Oberon]

Dont use oil drain hose if you can help it. Use your oil vac. You will be alright warming boat in driveway. Change impeller for sure. And as I recall, v drive takes less than 1 qt. Change trans fluid w ATF. Use your oil vac on all three. On v drive, that breather cap on top center side towards front comes off for refilling.

The best way to learn is just jump in.

I'm a little skeptical on a couple things you advise above. Why not use the drain hose? The manufacturer recommends it and it is the lowest point of the engine. I don't see a down side.

You risk cross contamination if you use the same pump for oil and ATF. That said, I have no clue what the consequences of cross contamination are. I've been using Harbor Freight manual pumps to change ATF (direct drive). There are coupons in virtually every car and motorcycle magazine which brings the price of the pumps to $3.99. At that price they are disposable which makes clean up a breeze.

[srab]

So does this look like the right stuff? Just made a run to the auto store and the guy helped me pick out these equivalents.

Photo here: http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii568/icloud22/FB605A03-E579-4BE6-84F9-B4E3E6EE39B8-1568-000000BAE7EE9A07_zpsc3d3a1d5.jpg~original

Looks good (although my boat uses ATF in both main and v-drive units).

What about your fuel filter?

[Web]

I'm a little skeptical on a couple things you advise above. Why not use the drain hose? The manufacturer recommends it and it is the lowest point of the engine. I don't see a down side.

You risk cross contamination if you use the same pump for oil and ATF. That said, I have no clue what the consequences of cross contamination are. I've been using Harbor Freight manual pumps to change ATF (direct drive). There are coupons in virtually every car and motorcycle magazine which brings the price of the pumps to $3.99. At that price they are disposable which makes clean up a breeze.

Drain hose very slow. Vac is the way to go, I guess if it makes you feel better stick the vac in the drain hose. For me it was easier to vac outta the dip stick holder.

Cross contamination? are you kidding me. Purdy ridiculous.

[Air Tahoe]

1. Is it ok to be slightly above high H mark on Walter V Drive and Transmission? I put in the full 2 quarts and 2 pints on each. Waited 10 mind and still showing high. Should I suck some out?

2. Engine oil came out easy and fast through bottom drain. Sucked some out of the top as well. Only pulled 4.5 qts out. Put in 4.5qts and it is just at the top level after 15 mins. Thought I would have needed more. But that's it huh?

3. Water impeller with WD40, paint can openers was impossible. I didn't get anywhere. Super tough. Guess ill wait till I get my puller from Bakes.

So if anyone knows the answer to the first two, I'd love here before I put everything away.

Thanks

[srab]

1. Is it ok to be slightly above high H mark on Walter V Drive and Transmission? I put in the full 2 quarts and 2 pints on each. Waited 10 mind and still showing high. Should I suck some out?

2. Engine oil came out easy and fast through bottom drain. Sucked some out of the top as well. Only pulled 4.5 qts out. Put in 4.5qts and it is just at the top level after 15 mins. Thought I would have needed more. But that's it huh?

3. Water impeller with WD40, paint can openers was impossible. I didn't get anywhere. Super tough. Guess ill wait till I get my puller from Bakes.

So if anyone knows the answer to the first two, I'd love here before I put everything away.

Thanks

1. I've been in the exact same situation and decided to suck a little bit out. I have subsequently changed my routine to a technique using a 2L empty soda bottle

and a Sharpie pen. When I suck out the fluid (I use a separate pump for ATF and for oil), I decant from my extractor into the empty bottle, then draw a line on

the side with the Sharpie. Then I pour out the old fluid and pour in new fluid up to the mark, then pour that back into the transmission. That way, I am always

replacing with an identical volume.

2. Your boat doesn't sit exactly the same while on the trailer as while floating on the water, and some small pools of oil may remain in the pan if there is a relatively

low spot. Depending upon the engine (Hammerheads are notorious for this), you're likely never going to get out all of the old oil. So, if you only drained 4.5 qts,

I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. As long as your oil level is close to the fill mark on the dipstick when you're done, you're good to go.

3. I had a similar experience with the WD40 and bumping the engine, and re-spraying and re-bumping, and trying to pry that sucker out of there. I'm glad that works

so well for some people, but it was a PITA for me. The first time I used an impeller puller, and every time since, it came out effortlessly. YMMV.

[srab]

Drain hose very slow. Vac is the way to go, I guess if it makes you feel better stick the vac in the drain hose. For me it was easier to vac outta the dip stick holder.

Cross contamination? are you kidding me. Purdy ridiculous.

I use a fluid extractor attached to the drain hose. Works well for me. I've avoided using the dip stick channel because some Crew members have had

their extractor hoses get stuck and subsequently sheared off using the dip stick channel. Probably a rare occurrence, but I don't see any risk of that

while sucking from the drain hose. In fact, I only have to thread the extractor tube about a foot or so into the drain hose for it to work.