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In Door Speakers Silverado


jjackkrash

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I know this is a boat forum but I'll ask anyway. I'm picking up a new chevy 2500 on Wed. and heading straight to my local stereo shop and having them gut the stock bose system. I have a sub box and shallow mount subs to go under the back seat of the crew cab from my slat truck; an exile amp driving the sub box and separates; and MB Quarts separates to go up front. I asked about the possibility of upgrading anything and my guy says the sub location limits options and I am good there considering limitations but that I might be better served with a set of Hertz speakers over the MB Quartz to improve mid bass. Anyone ever heard of these? Anyone got any suggestions for any upgrades before next week?

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1st question I have is, are you happy with the overall tone of the MB Quart's? I remember them being a bit shrill but some people like that.

2nd, are they old school German or new school Maxxsonics crap? Probably just an audio snob thing but hey, we are nothing without our prejudices.

If you're happy with them then you can improve the mid-bass by sound deadening the doors. Speaker placement can have a huge impact as well. Might look at taking advantage of the 2500's huge kick panel area. I'd also look at improving the source and add some DSP. Time alignment and multi point EQ can be a huge improvement.

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Box says FSA216 and has "maxxsonics" on it. ;(

I liked the way may truck sounded, but I always felt it had some room for improvement. I'm not sure I want to cut any new holes in the rig--I like to be able to return it to stock if I get the urge for something new.

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jj,

I really can't comment on specific brands.

I will say that I will never have another aftermarket audio system in a car or truck without a DSP to correct for time alignment and equalization. The difference will absolutely floor you if executed correctly. It can be an all day process to get one set up correctly, even for someone well initiated. If you have a person who is experienced and has the right measurement tools, I highly recommend this.

Shallow mount subs and underseat enclosures present certain challenges of their own.

A typical sub can take 8 to 10 milliseconds longer to process a signal versus the door midbass driver. Ideally, to have great midbass, the component midbass and subwoofer should be time aligned through the overlapping crossover region so the musical event is in phase. There are many acoustic issues in the vehicle that can negatively impact this also.

As mentioned above, sound damping material is of real benefit too.

David

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jj,

I really can't comment on specific brands.

I will say that I will never have another aftermarket audio system in a car or truck without a DSP to correct for time alignment and equalization. The difference will absolutely floor you if executed correctly. It can be an all day process to get one set up correctly, even for someone well initiated. If you have a person who is experienced and has the right measurement tools, I highly recommend this.

Shallow mount subs and underseat enclosures present certain challenges of their own.

A typical sub can take 8 to 10 milliseconds longer to process a signal versus the door midbass driver. Ideally, to have great midbass, the component midbass and subwoofer should be time aligned through the overlapping crossover region so the musical event is in phase. There are many acoustic issues in the vehicle that can negatively impact this also.

As mentioned above, sound damping material is of real benefit too.

David

By the way, I bought my full JL audio system for my Am. Skier from you and it rocks. The In-boat 7.7s are killer, and so is the sub box you built with the Jl 10W 6 powered by the JL digital amps. I had these guys install it, and I'd say they are gear head kids who like what they are doing but I'm not sure they have the technical knowledge you do. They did a great job on the install for my boat, however.

Any thought on my truck would be much appreciated. I'd like it to sound as good as my boat. :)

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What are you doing with your stock system?

I'm planning on putting the speakers in a box and storing them in case I decide to sell it down the road. I was going to use the factory head unit unless I can be convinced I need to do otherwise. I would consider adding a nav unit if it integrated well with my other stock gizmos.

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jj,

If it is a full spectrum home theater measurement mic rather than a voice mic then it should work. USB to mic adapters are avaialble to power the mic for use with any computer. But you would also need a pink noise disc and an RTA program on a computer. I wouldn't get into doing a DSP on my own unless it is completely self-setting and in that case the unit would come with it's own mic. I would leave this type item to a selling/installing/servicing pro.

Your local technicians probably already carry a DSP product. Check in with them and see if they offer it and have some experience. If they don't feel it would be interference, and they have a business, I would be willing to answer any questions for them. Or, maybe they are already ahead on this.

David

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jj,

If it is a full spectrum home theater measurement mic rather than a voice mic then it should work. USB to mic adapters are avaialble to power the mic for use with any computer. But you would also need a pink noise disc and an RTA program on a computer. I wouldn't get into doing a DSP on my own unless it is completely self-setting and in that case the unit would come with it's own mic. I would leave this type item to a selling/installing/servicing pro.

Your local technicians probably already carry a DSP product. Check in with them and see if they offer it and have some experience. If they don't feel it would be interference, and they have a business, I would be willing to answer any questions for them. Or, maybe they are already ahead on this.

David

Yup, its a full spectrum measuring devise. I use it when i am playing around with Audyssey,

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/390-790b.pdf

I'll see what they think about a DSP. Thanks.

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