Upgrading Amps

[Phoenix]

Hi All,

I am looking to upgrade my stock amplifiers in my '12 VTX, and looking for ideas / comments.

I have just replaced my tower speakers with the WS PRO696 (one pair), and added a WS420 so that I can control the tower and cabin separately.

Part of the need with adding the EQ is that I need to get the cabin speakers off the stock stereo and on to their own amp.

My thought was to look at a four channel amplifier, with one pair of channels for the cabin, and the other for the tower.

With that, I was thinking something like the Westsounds HT4....

... Will that be enough, or am I under-powering my PRO696's?

On a side note, I found a really nice snake cable to connect my 420 to the stereo and amps :

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CRA803/

Thanks,

Don

[MLA]

On the RCA cables: It looks like it comes in a 5M as the longest length. That could be cutting it close. Also, your amps and head-unit are going to have to be within 6 in of each other, otherwise, you will need to add additional RCA cables and gender-benders in order to lengthen. This adds cost and additional connection points.

For a 6x9 HLCD, I would recommend powering it in the 200W rms range if hearing it at wake-board length is your goal. An efficiant Class-D or G/H 2-chnl amp is a perfect choice and would allow for future expansion. Or a 4 chnl bridged into 2 chnl mode with a 2 x rms of about 250W rms or better.

For your in-boats, an efficient class-d or G/H 4 chnl is a solid choice. One that will deliver 50W rms x 4 @ 4 ohm would be a minimum, with 75W or better being ideal.

[Earmark Marine]

Don,

Two channels of a moderate four channel amplifier can be lite on tower HLCDs....especially in consideration of how hard you would be driving tower speakers. You might consider a six channel amplifier with four channels bridged into two on the tower and two channels running the four in-boat speakers.

While the above would be a little rich on the power to the tower, you can use a test disc and multimeter to set the amplifier gains to a predetermined and safe power level with a very simple calculation. You would still have to be careful because the safe gain/power levels can be undone by the boosting the equalizer. However, if you balance with a boost/cut to get a result, rather than just boost, this would be completely safe and also sound better.

David

[Phoenix]

Thanks Guys,

Looks like the HT6 will be the suitable option. I will go with bridging two channels as David suggested.

As for the cables, yup, shoulda gone for the 5m. For me, the benefit was having everything there and colour coded at each end so I don't have to try and tag and guess each line.

Cheers,

Don

[Nitrousbird]

Rockford P1000X4D would work as well. 150x4 RMS @ 4ohm; can be had for less than half the price of the HT6.

[NorrisMike]

Winner

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Power-P900-4-900W-Phantom-Class-D-Full-Range-4-Channel-Car-Amplifier-/300878438019?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item460dc09e83&vxp=mtr

[Murphy8166]

Winner

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Power-P900-4-900W-Phantom-Class-D-Full-Range-4-Channel-Car-Amplifier-/300878438019?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item460dc09e83&vxp=mtr

He said upgrade....not downgrade

[Phoenix]

Rockford P1000X4D would work as well. 150x4 RMS @ 4ohm; can be had for less than half the price of the HT6.

Thanks NitrosBird,

No concerns about this being a car amp in a damp location? It shouldn't really be much of an issue since I keep my boat in the garage.

Cheers,

Don

[Nitrousbird]

wouldn't be concerned about it being a car amp. Maybe if kept in a damp location or around salt water. The observer compartment stays pretty dry.

[jk13]

No concern using auto amps like stated, but that's half the power for the tower speakers of the HT6.

Edited March 28, 2013 by jk13