Couple ?'s on distribution blocks and amps

[Mjlee1985]

So this will be my first stereo on my first tow boat. That in mind I'm on a "budget". Here is what I'm thinking would be a really good sounding system for a decent price tag. First off the boat is a 1999 Malibu vlx wakesetter. There are four inboats that will be Exile sx65-m's. I was thinking about powering them with the ppi p900.4? Is that a good option for the price? For the tower I was thinking of just ordering the promo deal from exile with the 2 xm 9's and the harpoon( room to grow next winter) is this the best option for the money and quality? For the sub I'm going to keep the kicker solo beric 12" powered by the mtx 6500 d amp which puts out 250 watts at 4 ohms and 500 at 2 ohms. I am happy with the sub configuration for right now because it fricking thumps! Now right now I have one battery with a perks switch, I will add another deep cycle for the stereo( which type brand is the best for the money?) I am going to move the existing starting battery into the observation seat area along with the new battery ran with 0 or 2 gauge wire the 2 distribution blocks( one ground and one power) my ? Is do you run the head unit power,remote, and ground to the distribution blocks? I will also be installing a zld, does it also need to be in the distribution blocks? If so I can't find one with one input and 6 outputs? What distribution blocks do yall use?do I need tinned wire? Sorry for the short story but I wanted all the gurus to get the full picture! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[Truekaotik]

It's all about what you want to run.. I see no issue with the hardware mentioned if that's what you like and want...

On the head unit and ZLD installation, I would suggest hooking them up in normal fashion using the existing wiring available factory. Now if you notice noise after wards, then you can go to the common amplifier wires at the amp for the head unit and ZLD. This will keep your blocks with the same amount of holes needed. Just piggy back the small head unit and ZLD wires ontop of the Power and ground on one of the amps... But in most cases, using existing wiring for both will work fine and you'll have no noise unless the factory wiring is compromised... For the blocks, I like Tsunami, Stinger, Kicker, JL, ect... They all are good products... Batteries, I'm fond of Interstate.... For the Exile tower package, just beware to make sure they aren't B stock, used or refurbished... Unless you don't care, then don't worry... Just my preferences...

[MLA]

MJ,

In short, ALL audio gear: amps, head-unit, EQ's, and even ipod docks that charge, need to share the same battery B+ and ground source. Since you are also going to install a house bank, wiring it correctly from the git-go will eliminate 99% of unwanted noise. How its wired will depend on how you decide to design the house bank. Will it be just a 2nd battery and a manual dual-battery switch, or will it include an ACR/VSR or be a dedicated stereo bank independent of the boats charging system. This will determine where the amps and other gear terminate.

You will not need a distribution block with 6 outputs. Sounds like you will have 3 amp, so get a block with four 4ga/8ga outs. Pull the bushing out for 3 of the outputs to run 4ga to your 3 amps, then use the last output with the 8ga bushing still in, to feed your accessories.

[CliffB]

I'm no stereo expert, but I've been doing this stuff for a loooong time, and here's the best configuration I've found for a ski boat.

1. Two good batteries.....one just isn't enough if you're going to run a thumping system with the engine not running.

2. Use an off-1-2-both perko battery switch - this allows you to pick the battery to run everything off of. When anchored with the stereo on, I select one battery as this leaves a starting battery fully charged and ready to go.

3. I always use Interstate batteries, seem to work very well and have long life - deep cycle. I get the biggest DC battery I can find.

4. I run an accessories bus block off the Comm terminal of the battery switch. Again, this allows you to run everything thing off one or the other battery, or both, or have everything off.

5. I run a separate bus block off the Comm terminal for the stereo. The primary lead for the bus block is very heavy wire, sufficient to run everything on the block, and then some. All (+) for stereo are run off this common bus block. I use a heavy common (-) for all as well. This seems to eliminate all popping and/or signal interference.

6. All connections are properly soldered (no crimping).

The above is basic and easy to follow/wire up....has always worked well for me. Just my $.02.

[Mjlee1985]

Alright so I think I will just go ahead and pull the wires from the head unit since at the end of last season when I got the boat it was popping a lot. Ill go with a interstate battery dc. So I need tinned wire or just go with normal? It will never see salt water for as long as I own it! Don't really understand the point of a distribution block off the battery then another off the perko? Also after the distribution block is where the fuses go correct? Thank again

[Truekaotik]

In your case, since your already having some issues, I'd do what Wylie said.. Sounds like your factory wiring is compromised so since your redoing it all, do it all to the common battery.. You don't need tinned wire... Distribution blocks will do power and ground for you.. Since your batteries will be in the same compartment, you can do a single fused 1/0 gauge to a 4 out (ground) block for power and a non fused 1/0 gauge to 4 out (ground) block for the ground wire... Power blocks have fuses, ground blocks are fuse less...

[Mjlee1985]

Perfect and everyone just puts the power wire and ground to an amp?so ill have remote, power, and ground for Zld and head unit going to one common amp? Also are the RCA wires that come with the Zld kit good quality? Or should I look at upgrading? Does anyone have a system very comparable to this? Does it sound good?

[MLA]

Alright so I think I will just go ahead and pull the wires from the head unit since at the end of last season when I got the boat it was popping a lot. Ill go with a interstate battery dc. So I need tinned wire or just go with normal? It will never see salt water for as long as I own it! Don't really understand the point of a distribution block off the battery then another off the perko? Also after the distribution block is where the fuses go correct? Thank again

It is sounding like your battery banks are going to be configured with just a traditional dual-battery switch. "Perko" is one brand name that seems to blanket all battery switches, kinda like Kleenex, buts its not my favorite brand. It has short studs, brittle plastic and a larger footprint then others. Function wise, it works fine.

So for you, if the above is the case, then ALL B+ (battery positive) connections, except the bilge constant B+, need to be connected to the switch's "C" post. This includes all the stereo gear and insures that all the audio equipment shares the same battery source.

For your amps' GND, a 1/0 trunk line from the house bank GND, which is connected to the main cranking bank GND, which is connected to the main engine GND, run over to the amp install area. Then a 4-out non-fused distribution block with 4ga to each of the amps' GND lugs.

For he B+, you will need a single 1/0ga trunk line run from the switch C post, with an applicable sized fuse or circuit breaker 12-18 inches off the C post, then continue over to the amp install area. Now, depending on some yet to be determined factors, you may not need to used a fused distribution, but simply another non-fused. In many cases, these additional fuses are redundant. If the amps have their own internal fusing and the proper cable and main fusing is used, then its another piece of gear that can be eliminated. But if you choose to go with one,no worries, its similar to the GND side with the non-fused, but with slots for fuses. The main fuse/breaker needs to be able to carry the load of the system, yet not exceed the current capacity of the cabling. We want the circuit protection to be the weak link in the system.