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Kenerator

Trailer Rewire

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Kenerator

I'm going to rewire and add backup lights to my trailer this weekend.

Wiring Connectors:

Has anyone used anything besides the insulation displacement connectors like the "Scotchlok" type to connect up to the lights? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GSB32JZL2GbeVB2NDGZBTHgl

I was looking for something that would be moisture resistant and protect the connection from corrosion, but the gel/grease filled ones are kinda pricey.

The “T-Taps” are pretty cool, but not gel/grease filled.

Another thought I had was to make a connection at each light with an insulated crimp connector and then fill it with silicon sealer to keep the gunk out.

Common Ground Wire:

Has anyone connected a wire as a common ground to each light in place of using the trailer frame at each light location for a ground?

I was thinking that connecting each light to single ground wire that is grounded near the tongue may reduce ground problems down the road. You still have a ground connection at each light, but it’s wire to wire instead of wire to frame. The only wire to frame connection is at a single point. Less corrosion affecting the connections maybe?

Any thoughts are appreciated

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wdr

IMO you should do yourself a favor and just go ahead and solder everything while you have it apart. On my '10 Boatmate TA, I have been chasing crimp-on gremlins all year and finally decided to cut them all out and soldered them. End of gremlins.

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lonster

These connectors are the the greatest thing since sliced bread. I use them on my snowmobile trialer, utility trailer and on my underground sprinkler system. They are expensive but work great.. 3M™ Scotchlok™ Electrical Connector 314

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Falko

Solder and shrink or crimp and slicon. I prefer to solder most connections, don't have to worry about them down the road.

And pulling a ground back to central point AND wiring to the truck ground never hurts either.

Leave yourself adequate length to secure well. Rubbing and chafing is the most common way to short out a trailer. I like to use a little cheap tygon tubing at any rub points.

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Kenerator

So, I spent an entire Saturday rewiring the trailer… THE HARD WAY! I did it all from underneath with the boat still on the trailer. Note to future rewire-ers, unless you absolutely have to fix a light or something, wait until you can take the boat off the trailer and do it from the top.

I installed all new wiring including a new 7 pin plug. I wired it ‘point to point’ so to speak and soldered and then heat shrunk every connection. Upon finishing I excitedly plugged in and wa-la! Brake lights and turn signals worked fine, but the running lights were not lighting. Thankfully a new fuse remedied the problem and we’re good to go now.

Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions and shared wisdom.

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