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All In One?


Big Jay D

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Some of you all are way more into the stereo thing than I will ever be.

I'm changing out the entire stereo system in the boat. Nothing fancy. This is a list of the speakers that are going in the boat

Cabin Speakers, 6 Arc Audio KS6026, 50wRMS 100w Max

Tower Speakers, 2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 200w RMS 400w Max

Subwoofer, 1 Wetsounds XS-10FA, 300RMS 600 Max

I will be running the same Pioneer deck I installed.

I will also have a Wetsounds 420 EQ installed.

Question is...

What Amp or Amps would be good for this system? 2 Amp max. 1 Amp preferred if possible.

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I dont see you being able to get away with one amp on a 3 zone system. 2 amps will get it done but 3 would be a much better option as far as power & easier on the amps. I will let others chime in on their recommendations.

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If you want Wetsounds gear, you could do it with 2 amps - Sync 6 to power your in-boat and tower speakers, and a Syn 2 for your subs (though that Syn 4 would be overkill for them).

I'm a fan of Memphis audio. For their Marine Audio amps, you could use a 16-MM5.750 to feed the sub and in-boat speakers and a 16-MM4.480 to feed the towers.

The only way you are going to get down to 1 amp is to find a combo amp like the Syn 6 or 16-MM5.750 that is 1ohm stable on the 4-channel side and puts out a ton of power on that side. Then you could basically run 3 in-boat speakers per channel then the other 2 channels for the towers.

Any other way is either going to drop the ohm load down too much or underpower your towers.

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Any 1 amp is going to be WAY overtaxed running all of that. Best to split it up between at least 2 amps. Now you just have to decide how much you want to spend, sky's the limit on that one.

  • Like 2
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Tower

Wet Sounds HT-4 or Syn-2

Kicker IX500.4

ARC XDi804 or KS300.2

In-Boat

Wet Sounds HT-6 or HT-4 and HT-1 or Syn-4 and Mycro

Arc XD-805 or XDi804 and XDi600.1 Or KS300.4 and KS500.1

Kicker IX1000.5

Just a couple of many possible options.

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I can get a great deal on Wetsounds gear so I have decided to get a Syn6 for the cabin and woofer. A Syn2 for the tower.

Thanks for all your input everyone. I will be back this winter when it's time to install the system!

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I can get a great deal on Wetsounds gear so I have decided to get a Syn6 for the cabin and woofer. A Syn2 for the tower.

Thanks for all your input everyone. I will be back this winter when it's time to install the system!

Just to toss this out there. The Syn-6 will do either 600W bridged on 5/6 to a 4 ohm sub or 155W x 2 @ 4 ohm on chnl 5 or 6. IMO, 600W is too much for an Infinite-Baffle sub and 155W is too light. The HT-6 would deliver more to your 6 in-boats then the Syn-6 and deliver 300W to your XS-10FA. That's spot-on. All in a smaller footprint and higher efficiency as well. I would reconsider either the amp or sub choice.

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  • 2 months later...

So I'm starting to gear up for my winter projects. I looked back at this thread and decided to think real hard before placing an order. There are a couple of concerns I would like to ask about.

I will have a 420 installed but I want the cabin speakers that are on the dash to be on a separate channel some how. I don't mind the boat being turned up but the 2 speakers on the dash are very loud for the driver (me) and the observer. I want to be able to limit or turn the GAIN? on these 2 particular speakers down. Can it be done?

I'm still undecided on what I should do for amps. The HT series 6 and 4 both are running 110RMS per channel. 110 RMS is more than my cabin speakers can handle. What happens when I run 2 or 3 three of my 50w RMS cabin speakers off of 1 channel? The channel is only good for 110w RMS so If I have 2 speakers on that channel are the speakers only getting 55w RMS each?

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As far as your 2 dash speakers being too loud, likely an easy fix would be to put those 2 on the same channel on your amp, then they get their own gain knob, so you can adjust their level to match that of the other inboat speakers to your liking on the amp.

So you have 6 inboat speakers... You need a 4(or 6) channel amp just for the inboats.... Put your other 4 inboats on the first 2 channels, and put those 2 dash speakers on the 3rd channel where they'll get their own gain and freq adjust knobs. 4th channel will be unused. Adjust the gains down till you are happy with them.

But now you are into 3 amps: boat speakers, towers and sub.

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Wetsounds instructions say you can run multiple speakers per channel but when is it too much? I mean what does it do if you run 3 50W speakers on a 110w channel?

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This is what I would do run this amp you can run 250RMS at 4ohms to tower on one side on the other run one on the 4 inside speakers and the other to the sub. Now for the dash speaker run them off you radio it what be near the amps but that is what you want the sound to not be as high so it want matter you can just turn it up and down with the radio. Now you will still need the 420. but this should get it done and at 4 Ohms. Just my 2 cents. Bye the way amazon is half that price.

http://www.rockfordf...x?itemid=116206

Edited by Bradley Thornton
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So I'm starting to gear up for my winter projects. I looked back at this thread and decided to think real hard before placing an order. There are a couple of concerns I would like to ask about.

I will have a 420 installed but I want the cabin speakers that are on the dash to be on a separate channel some how. I don't mind the boat being turned up but the 2 speakers on the dash are very loud for the driver (me) and the observer. I want to be able to limit or turn the GAIN? on these 2 particular speakers down. Can it be done?

I'm still undecided on what I should do for amps. The HT series 6 and 4 both are running 110RMS per channel. 110 RMS is more than my cabin speakers can handle. What happens when I run 2 or 3 three of my 50w RMS cabin speakers off of 1 channel? The channel is only good for 110w RMS so If I have 2 speakers on that channel are the speakers only getting 55w RMS each?

JD,

You are probably going to have the best setup if you go with 2 amps at least, rather then one.

For the Pro-80, go with an HT-4 bridged into 2 chnl mode and each gets 300W each.

For the 6 in-boats and XS-10FA, go with the HT-6. Sub will run bridged on chnls 5/6 and receive 300W. Run the console pair on chnls 1 and 2 so you can gain them down. Yes, 110 is more then they are rated for, but with proper tuning, I have not issues with the Arc receiving this amount of power.

For the bow and main cabin pair, run them in parallel on chnls 3 and 4. They will be receiving 75W each.

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MLA,

This makes the most sense to me. I never thought about the gains as a volume control but I guess they would work that way for sure. Thanks.

Edited by Big Jay D
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Wetsounds instructions say you can run multiple speakers per channel but when is it too much? I mean what does it do if you run 3 50W speakers on a 110w channel?

Jay, most of these amps are stable down to 2ohms per channel x 4 channels.

I believe all those speakers you listed above are 4ohms ea. so you could put 2 of those inboats per channel, that would give you an 2ohm load. 3 of them would have you at 1.3 ohm or so, likely would put the amp into thermal protect anything over 20% volume.

do a 4 channel for the 6 inboats.....one of those channels will be left empty and unused. And get a 5 channel for your towers and sub.

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do a 4 channel for the 6 inboats.....one of those channels will be left empty and unused. And get a 5 channel for your towers and sub.

Most stereo amps or 4 chnl amps will not like having one chnl running at 2 ohm and the other left unused. Those mating chnls are linked internally, which is what makes bridging possible. There is no reason to do this when running 6 speaker using 4 chnls. This would also leave the in-boats running mono, rather then stereo. $02

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ya, he could put those dash speakers each on their own channel... channels 3 and 4.

So you wannt find a 4 channel that does something in this range:

120-160w RMS x4 at 2ohms

60-80w RMS x4 at 4 ohms

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