Help needed getting arm rest off where the head unit is mounted

[rogermulligan]

I need to check the connection at the back of my head unit. this is mounted in the arm rest for the driver where the throttle is - does anyone know how to get this off? there are no obvious bolts/scews.

I am getting a loud "pop" everytime I touch a button on the head unit - someone suggested that the head unit was in a mode that "beeped" everytime a button was touched , if this is the case the poping noise is still excessive.

Also getting a lot of static and engine noise being fed back through the sub. I am going to start with checking all connections and grounds.

[92skier]

There are several screws and 3 bolts all on the backside of the panel. You have to lay on the ground and look up behind it to see them. It is kind of a pain in the arse to get to.

[JAXONBOATS]

Disconnect the battery first, this will eliminate the potential of shorting any thing out if you drop a wrench or have exposed power leads looking for a ground to touch.

2005 through 2009 our experience on the standard panel is held on by 3 paddles that are 2 inches in diameter with a bunch of holes that allow the glue to hold on to the upholstery side of the panel and keep the paddle in place. The paddles have 3” threaded rods that protrude through large holes in the fiberglass side rail that allows the panel to be adjusted to the correct position. Each threaded rod has a pair of fender washers and stainless standard nuts. The inner nut and fender washer sets the position of the panel; the outer fender washer and nut secure the panel in place.

Pull the screws from the bottom of the panel below the fuse panel area; this should loosen the entire bottom of the throttle panel. On your back, from the front it is possible to reach up and feel the threaded rods with the nuts/fender washers for 2 out of the 3 threaded rods. In most cases you can take them off with your fingers. If not an 11mm open end will be needed. The rear threaded rod can be reached from accessing the panel near the very rear this time behind the captains seat.

Do not worry about the assembly, once you see how things are put together, you will find it easy to know where the fender washers go and putting the nut on without seeing them is can be done with your hand, then tighten up with an open end.

It is WAY easier if the captain’s seat is removed but that is a project in itself.

It might be a short cut by disconnecting the battery and slipping the head unit out to inspect the wiring. If you have amps, then only 3 wires are actually connected, power, ground and amp trigger. The rest should only be, antenna, MP3 RCAs and Amp RCAs.

If you are getting static or undesirable sounds coming out of the speakers, it is very possible that the depth sounder module is feeding that static into the system. Isolate the ground lead and check the system, if the power lead to the depth sounder is on the accessory switch it will need to be moved to the on side of the switch. Playing with the ground might work, shielded RCAs might work, isolating the signal is the ticket.

If you are getting a pop or arc sound, that almost sounds like the power lead is exposed and grounding intermitant to something back there. Again, just slip the head unit out and use a flash light and mirror to inspect the wiring. Way easier then pulling the entire panel.

[rogermulligan]

Thanks guys. will follow your advice. The "pop" does not occur randomly, but rather every time any button is pushed, much like how some cell phones beep for each key press when you are dialing a phone number, except this is a loud deep sounding thump (I guess "pop" implies more of a high frequency). I have pulled the head face plate off before - It was not obvious on first inspection how to get the rest of the carrier out of the cutout hole in the arm rest. Will look again.

The depth sounder appears not to be wired to any accessory switches, rather is on whenever the ignition key is on. I will get under there and inspect further.

Roger.