Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Upgrading my system... need some recommendations.


gabemcg

Recommended Posts

My 98' VLX has the following setup:

- Pioneer DEH-P650 head unit (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P650)

- (4) Sony XS-602F speakers in the boat, running off the head unit.

- MTX Thunder 102 amp (http://archive.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/thunder102.cfm)

- (4) 6x9 Pioneer speakers in (2) home made ghetto tower mount boxes running off the MTX amp.

The system is super low budget, and mostly works for cruising and floating, but, I'd like the following:

- I want to be able to clearly hear the music when surfing... I don't care about hearing the music when wakeboarding.

- I want independent volume controls for tower speakers, and the inside speakers... I HATE having to flip up the head unit cover every time a rider falls... it's just way too loud inside the boat when at idle.

In the past, I've used some inline RCA gain adjuster knobs like these: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Remote-Amplifier-Level-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

I was thinking I'd buy another amp, some new tower speakers, and two of those level controllers. The new tower speaker amp would use the rear output of my head unit through one of these knobs. The internal speakers would use my existing 2 channel amp, connected in parallel, through the front output of my head unit through one of these knobs. I'd turn the in line knobs up all the way, and set my amps/head unit to the max volume I'd ever need, then just use the knobs to adjust volumes independently. Does this make sense?

If yes, what speakers/amp do you guys recommend? Remember, super low budget here... I'm replacing some ghetto crap with something better than what I have, but it doesn't need to be current/top of the line stuff. I'm using the stock Skylon Tuna Tower, which I think is 1 7/8".

What do you guys think?

Link to comment

You could do those LC1's or make it easier on yourself and do something like the clarion eq, be about the same price when you factor in rca cable. One rca in and three out to your amps. I would be looking for some used gear from crewmembers here, there is always stuff for sale.

Edited by Bobby Light
Link to comment

You can't solder up your own pots for that price. I'd be concerned they'll make some noise as you turn them, but I'd guess they'll be stable enough once in place. Similar to how I control the volume in my boat although I have an overall volume, in boat, sub, and tower. If I only had in boats and towers though I'd just have used two knobs like you are proposing.

Like Bobby if you are real budget conscious I'd definitely shop used. Are you planning on actually buying tower enclosures or continuing to use homebuilt's? If you are it opens the possibilities of shopping on non-wakeboard boat forums and CL.

Link to comment

Looking at the Clarion EQ now... what model is everyone using? On the one I am looking at, it looks like the control between "zones" (front and rear) is simply a fader... and not individually controlled knobs, is that correct?

For speakers, I am not going home built this time, so open to any used gear that people may have out there.

I've heard good things about the LC1s. Yes, I agree, they are super cheap for what they are, so I am not expecting super high quality, but if they work, that is good enough for me.

Link to comment

Looking at the Clarion EQ now... what model is everyone using? On the one I am looking at, it looks like the control between "zones" (front and rear) is simply a fader... and not individually controlled knobs, is that correct?

For speakers, I am not going home built this time, so open to any used gear that people may have out there.

I've heard good things about the LC1s. Yes, I agree, they are super cheap for what they are, so I am not expecting super high quality, but if they work, that is good enough for me.

The clarion is the eqs746 or something like that can't remember. The knob is more like a fader but works just like the LC1's would if hooked up. Has a separate sub volume so that fader from the tower/cabin you can have as much or as little of those zones as you want. I've used one in my boat as well as the LC1 units and didn't see an issue with it but maybe you're after something different. I wouldn't waist my time building your own potentiometers since the LC1's are so cheap and are tried and true. Sounds like you don't want to be messing with building anything anyways.

Link to comment

Thanks for the help... I am going to go with the PAC LC1 knobs, and whatever used amp/tower speaker combo I can find.

Do you think the MTX Thunder 102 that I have will drive 4 of the Sony XS-602F speakers wired in parallel for the boat speakers? Specs say the amp is 50 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load (which is what the load will be with 2 of them wired in parallel). I'm guessing they will sound just as good as they did wired directly to the head unit, even though the rated power is much less.... but I don't know a whole lot about mobile audio.

Link to comment

Considering your budget I wouldn't replace it without using it, but I would be careful setting the gains. It should be fine really, will definitely deliver more power than your headunit. It may not do anywhere near it's rated specification, but realize that it requires you to basically double your power to have an audible difference. That being said even if the amp only does half what it says it will do, it is still a major improvement over the headunit.

I like your choice. If I were you and didn't want to spend much I'd definitely choose the cost effective volume solution, keep the amp for now, and spend my money on speakers and a tower amp where the biggest gain is to be made. You can always upgrade the amplifier down the road if you need. I'd start by honing in on the tower speakers as those will be the hardest to find. Once you know what you have there letting us know the amplifier budget will us dig through the classifieds to help you find something.

Link to comment

You'll be fine with the LC1's. I did that last year, no problems. My amp gains had to be turned way up though. Didn't realize it until I upgraded to a EQ this year and with it's internal line drives, the amps all had to be turned down. I would of stuck with the LC1's but I added a sub and wanted more eq control, plus sub volume.

are you going to get speakers in cans or try to put the pieces together?

Link to comment

Thanks for the help... I am going to go with the PAC LC1 knobs, and whatever used amp/tower speaker combo I can find.

Do you think the MTX Thunder 102 that I have will drive 4 of the Sony XS-602F speakers wired in parallel for the boat speakers? Specs say the amp is 50 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load (which is what the load will be with 2 of them wired in parallel). I'm guessing they will sound just as good as they did wired directly to the head unit, even though the rated power is much less.... but I don't know a whole lot about mobile audio.

That MTX amp will be way better than the deck to drive any speaker, they should sound much better running off that amp.

Link to comment

Awesome!

Just ordered two of the LC1s from Amazon, and I think I am going to end up with a Hifonics Titan TXi 4006 driving a pair of 6.5" Dbot5 tower speakers... should definitely be a pretty substantial budget conscious upgrade.

No issues running 2 pairs of speakers in parallel off of that amp? It says it can handle a 2ohm load, so I figured it would be fine.

Link to comment

Awesome!

Just ordered two of the LC1s from Amazon, and I think I am going to end up with a Hifonics Titan TXi 4006 driving a pair of 6.5" Dbot5 tower speakers... should definitely be a pretty substantial budget conscious upgrade.

No issues running 2 pairs of speakers in parallel off of that amp? It says it can handle a 2ohm load, so I figured it would be fine.

Honestly that's not near enough power for tower speakers. You'll only be getting 100 watts rms. You should be looking for an amp that can deliver a good 200+. You'll be running that amp at 4 ohms with the 2 speakers you listed.

Link to comment

This amp was cheap, so I'll wire it up and use it for now and keep my eyes open for a replacement. Let me know if you guys see anything pop up here that is inexpensive and would drive these speakers a little harder.

Nope, just the 1 pair of tower speakers. 2 pairs of in-boat speakers.

Edited by gabemcg
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...