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old skool malibu

2012 G3 Tower Wiring

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old skool malibu

I was just looking at the tower wiring diagram on Bakes Site http://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/G3SpeakerWireDiagram.pdf and it looks like Malibu only runs 2 tower wires not 4 as they use a 2 channel amp and run their speakers in parallel if going to 4. I have 4 Bullet Hollowpoint speakers and a 4 channel amp. What does this mean (in simple terms)? Do I have to run more wires? Will my speakers not be getting the correct power? I have 2 amps I will be adding to the boat ..one for interiors and one for the towers. JL 600/4 HD http://www.jlaudio.com/hd600-4-car-audio-hd-amplifiers-98221 150 rms @ 4oms and Orion XTR 5004 (The birth sheet has it at 160 rms per channel @ 2ohm even though the factory specs are less). http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=504

I think the Orion is a beefier amp but not sure if Malibu's wiring will limit my choices? It looks like I can bridge both amps so does the fact I only have 2 wires really make a difference?

Edited by old skool malibu

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Earmark Marine

In either case with a 4-channel amp you would series the speakers at the top of the tower and bridge the four channel amplifier into two channels so that only two conductors are needed up each side of the tower. The four-channel 4-ohm power and the bridged two-channel 8-ohm power will be the same. This eliminates the need for eight total conductors (four per side) running up the tower. Two wires per side will do fine if the gauge of wire is acceptable. You will want 12-gauge wire for two HLCDs per side.

The Orion amplifier, if unregulated, will considerably drop in power to its four-channel 4-ohm rating with this configuration.

The JL Audio amplifier is strictly regulated so its power will remain the same when bridged with any load from 3 to 8-ohms.

David

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MLA

In either case with a 4-channel amp you would series the speakers at the top of the tower and bridge the four channel amplifier into two channels so that only two conductors are needed up each side of the tower. The four-channel 4-ohm power and the bridged two-channel 8-ohm power will be the same. This eliminates the need for eight total conductors (four per side) running up the tower. Two wires per side will do fine if the gauge of wire is acceptable. You will want 12-gauge wire for two HLCDs per side.

The Orion amplifier, if unregulated, will considerably drop in power to its four-channel 4-ohm rating with this configuration.

The JL Audio amplifier is strictly regulated so its power will remain the same when bridged with any load from 3 to 8-ohms.

David

David's advice is spot on as usually, but the 2012 G-3 is only wired with 14Ga. So you would be best served to run another 14ga 2-conductor down the port side and one down the starboard side. This will be three 2-conductors down the port side and a two down the starboard (the other is for the NAV light. Its a snug fit through the port tower foot and deck, but doable with little trouble. On the starboard side, you can probably push the wire through by its self, no need for a fish-tape.

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old skool malibu

Thanks Gents..looks like I will have to run some more wire in the tower. Has anyone done this..how much of a pain in the a** will it be?

David - seems like if I stuck with the stock wiring I would be best to use the JL amp as it is regulated and the Orion isn't?

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Bobby Light

You should only have speaker wire going up through the tower on the port side. The nav light wiring should be on the starboard side. Rewiring the tower is simple. Start on the starboard side and tape the ends of the new 12 awg wire and existing 14awg wire together tight so there are no edges that can snag the nav wiring. Gently pull the wire down through the tower on the port side, this will pull the new wire through while the old wire is being pulled out. Be careful and deliberate when doing it so you don't snag the nav wiring. Do the same on the port side speaker wire, this side will be considerably easier and shorter in length.

Edit: additionally any wiring for tower lighting would go up the starboard side of the tower.

Edited by Bobby Light

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old skool malibu

You should only have speaker wire going up through the tower on the port side. The nav light wiring should be on the starboard side. Rewiring the tower is simple. Start on the starboard side and tape the ends of the new 12 awg wire and existing 14awg wire together tight so there are no edges that can snag the nav wiring. Gently pull the wire down through the tower on the port side, this will pull the new wire through while the old wire is being pulled out. Be careful and deliberate when doing it so you don't snag the nav wiring. Do the same on the port side speaker wire, this side will be considerably easier and shorter in length.

Edit: additionally any wiring for tower lighting would go up the starboard side of the tower.

Great idea..thanks! What about tower light wires..I assume they are in there as well?

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Bobby Light

Great idea..thanks! What about tower light wires..I assume they are in there as well?

If it's like my tower the G3 will not be wired for lights unless you order the lights on the build, you'll have to do that yourself.

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Earmark Marine

old skool,

You would want to use the strictly regulated amplifier because it would still deliver its full power potential as a 4-channel amplifier driving four tower speakers. Using the factory tower wiring or replacement wiring, number of conductors and gauge of wire, will have no impact on this choice.

David

Thanks Gents..looks like I will have to run some more wire in the tower. Has anyone done this..how much of a pain in the a** will it be?

David - seems like if I stuck with the stock wiring I would be best to use the JL amp as it is regulated and the Orion isn't?

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lasik

In either case with a 4-channel amp you would series the speakers at the top of the tower and bridge the four channel amplifier into two channels so that only two conductors are needed up each side of the tower. The four-channel 4-ohm power and the bridged two-channel 8-ohm power will be the same. This eliminates the need for eight total conductors (four per side) running up the tower. Two wires per side will do fine if the gauge of wire is acceptable. You will want 12-gauge wire for two HLCDs per side.

The Orion amplifier, if unregulated, will considerably drop in power to its four-channel 4-ohm rating with this configuration.

The JL Audio amplifier is strictly regulated so its power will remain the same when bridged with any load from 3 to 8-ohms.

David

Will factory 12 gage work for 1 pr of xm9's powered by a harpoon?

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Bobby Light

There is no factory 12 awg wire, but 12 awg wire is more than adequate for 1 pair of XM9's.

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Earmark Marine

lasik,

If there is existing 14-gauge in the tower, running 14-gauge would be as effective for one pair of HLCDs as 12-gauge would be for two pair of HLCDs. So, you could get by without compromise. But...if you ever plan on a second pair in the future then upgrading to a 12-gauge harness is highly recommended. Wire choice is a matter of current times distance and two pair is passing more current.

David

Will factory 12 gage work for 1 pr of xm9's powered by a harpoon?

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lasik

lasik,

If there is existing 14-gauge in the tower, running 14-gauge would be as effective for one pair of HLCDs as 12-gauge would be for two pair of HLCDs. So, you could get by without compromise. But...if you ever plan on a second pair in the future then upgrading to a 12-gauge harness is highly recommended. Wire choice is a matter of current times distance and two pair is passing more current.

David

Meant existing 14-gauge...that's what I get for typing on a conf call...thanks for answering the corrected question. One pr is all the wife will tolerate.

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