Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
Tacostik

Impeller Change Walkthrough

Recommended Posts

Tacostik

So I just spend an hour digging through random threads and have not found a simple walkthrough for changing the impeller on a V-Drive. I did find lots of random bits on getting the old one off, getting the new one on, how to sit, and what tools to use, but there was not any single thread that covered the process from start to finish. It would be awesome if there was a step by step walkthrough for someone that has never done it. It would be even better if there were pics. Any chance such thing exists?

Share this post


Link to post
85 Barefoot

1 locate raw water pump

2 remove 4 screws of faceplate

3 remove impeller

4 lubricate and replace with new

5 install new gasket put plate back on

6 reinstall 4 screws

7 done

That's it.

Share this post


Link to post
Pistol Pete

1 Send round trip air line ticket to Pistol Pete.

2 Buy new impeller and gasket.

3 PIck up Pistol Pete at airport.

4 Give Pistol Pete case of beer when done.

edit.

Notice how few steps in this scenario.

Edited by Pistol Pete

Share this post


Link to post
srab

So I just spend an hour digging through random threads and have not found a simple walkthrough for changing the impeller on a V-Drive. I did find lots of random bits on getting the old one off, getting the new one on, how to sit, and what tools to use, but there was not any single thread that covered the process from start to finish. It would be awesome if there was a step by step walkthrough for someone that has never done it. It would be even better if there were pics. Any chance such thing exists?

Here's what works for me:

After removing the partitions between the port-side rear storage and the engine compartment, I grab a flashlight

and a socket wrench (mine allows for attachment of a finger socket driver as well as a screwdriver handle).

I get as comfortable as possible lying on my right side while, with the flashlight situated optimally, I unscrew the

four screws holding the faceplate and set them and the faceplate aside. I then attach an impeller puller and hand

crank the old impeller out. I used to lubricate and then bump the engine over to loosen the old impeller, but with

an impeller puller, I've found those steps to be unnecessary.

I pull the new impeller out of its box, lubricate the splines with glycerin, double-check the

orientation, and then slide it into the housing (spline orientation is not really a concern; I've

learned from experience that they will orient themselves correctly with the first few spins). If correctly

lined up, the impeller will slide all the way in so the edges are flush with the housing.

I align a new gasket with the faceplate, and push the top screw through its hole in the faceplate (which holds

the gasket in place). I then align the screw/gasket/faceplate with its hole in the housing and tighten to a

snug fit using the screwdriver handle socket attachment. Next comes the other three screws. It's not necessary

to get them real tight, and those brass screws will break if over-tightened, so I don't get too carried away here.

I start up the engine and shine the flashlight beam at the housing. If its not leaking, I'm done. If it drips,

I'll tighten the screws just a touch more.

Finally, I put the partitions back in place. The whole process takes roughly 10 minutes going at a leisurely pace.

Edited by srab

Share this post


Link to post
skyskier

Totally serious...........I lay on the engine and hang close to upside down while using a mirror to guide me. That big exaust tube is in the way. Without the mirror, I can't see a thing. It's really not that bad until the big head rush comes. For me, it's really just a one beer job.

Share this post


Link to post
Nitrousbird

Pull the cover bolts and pop off the cover. Spray a bit of WD40 in there and just barely bump the motor over with the key (just enough to turn the impeller a bit). Pull out with needle nose pliers. Install is reverse of removal. Not a hard process.

Share this post


Link to post
haycutter

Pull the cover bolts and pop off the cover. Spray a bit of WD40 in there and just barely bump the motor over with the key (just enough to turn the impeller a bit). Pull out with needle nose pliers. Install is reverse of removal. Not a hard process.

I Don't like W-D40 for the lube... A silicone base lube is a better way to go IMO. Don't forget to check the transmission oil cooler for broken pieces of old impellers, (even if there are no missing pieces on the one you removed). Just follow the hose going from the raw water pump and you will find the Transmission cooler(about 10 inches long and about 1.5 inches in diameter). Remove the hose coming from the raw water pump and look inside and remove any broken pieces of impeller.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Pistol Pete

Totally serious...........I lay on the engine and hang close to upside down while using a mirror to guide me. That big exaust tube is in the way. Without the mirror, I can't see a thing. It's really not that bad until the big head rush comes. For me, it's really just a one beer job.

That's how I do it. Remove both engine side covers, straddle the motor, have all the parts ready and go into it one time.

.5 beer job.

Share this post


Link to post
Tacostik

Wow thanks guys. This was very helpful!!

Share this post


Link to post
Nitrousbird

I Don't like W-D40 for the lube... A silicone base lube is a better way to go IMO. Don't forget to check the transmission oil cooler for broken pieces of old impellers, (even if there are no missing pieces on the one you removed). Just follow the hose going from the raw water pump and you will find the Transmission cooler(about 10 inches long and about 1.5 inches in diameter). Remove the hose coming from the raw water pump and look inside and remove any broken pieces of impeller.

Tim

Why? You are just pulled out a bad impeller - who cares if it is bad on the rubber or not? The new impellar is already lubed (at least the Globe 100J is, which is the prefered impeller to use).

Share this post


Link to post
martinarcher

I wouldn't use WD-40 either even if it is on the old impeller. Anything you spray in the housing will end up on the new impeller as well. To me, a water based lube makes sense since it is a water impeller. I use KY. Whistling.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Pistol Pete

I use baby shampoo.

B/c it's always on the boat b/c it's my binding lube.

Share this post


Link to post
haycutter

Why? You are just pulled out a bad impeller - who cares if it is bad on the rubber or not? The new impellar is already lubed (at least the Globe 100J is, which is the prefered impeller to use).

My bad! I was referring to the video in post# 6 on how to install the new impeller and very clearly sprays the new one with WD- 40. I am sorry for the confusion, I posted a reply to the wrong sub post.

I did not intend to demonize wd-40 or any other product. I personally think as "in my opinion" IMO it is not a good idea to use that product on rubber like compounds without knowing if it could cause damage. I don't think it would hurt to use as you described in your reply.

Please accept my apology!

Tim

Edited by haycutter

Share this post


Link to post
martinarcher

I use baby shampoo.

B/c it's always on the boat b/c it's my binding lube.

That would work good. Thumbup.gif Another good one is dish washing liquid. All are water based and won't harm rubber.

Share this post


Link to post
shawndoggy

this geeking out about wd40 is a bit silly imho. Does anyone put in an impeller and not immediately check to see whether it works? if so, isn't the raw water feed effectively washing the impeller off mere minutes after the wd touched it?

For goodness sake have you considered all of the finger oils which might get on it too? or dust?

Don't you guys spray down your motor with WD for winterizing? Are you religiously checking to make sure an errant particle doesn't land on one of your many rubber hoses or belts around the engine?

Edited by shawndoggy

Share this post


Link to post
Pistol Pete

Wow,

This coming form the man who self proclaims that he is only an internet mechanic.

You sound like the real deal. LOL.

Share this post


Link to post
shawndoggy

Wow,

This coming form the man who self proclaims that he is only an internet mechanic.

You sound like the real deal. LOL.

Thumbup.gifBlush.gif

Share this post


Link to post
haycutter

Thumbup.gifBlush.gif

Did this just get out of hand? LMAO :innocent:

Share this post


Link to post
Wakesetter67

1 Send round trip air line ticket to Pistol Pete.

2 Buy new impeller and gasket.

3 PIck up Pistol Pete at airport.

4 Give Pistol Pete case of beer when done.

edit.

Notice how few steps in this scenario.

Ok Thats Funny.... Beer.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Tacostik

Is there a part number for the impeller gasket? 2008 LSV w/ Monsoon.

Share this post


Link to post
wakeboarder3780

Is there a part number for the impeller gasket? 2008 LSV w/ Monsoon.

I have a 2006 wakesetter LSV and would be surprised if your part is any different.

Here is my impeller gasket:

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1243

Here is my t-stat gasket:

http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1112

You would know if you pulled it apart and got the old one out. You'd be able to eyeball it. I recommend buying at least 3 or 4 of each when you buy because the shipping at bakes is a little expensive for smaller items. Best thing to do is wait until you need multiple things. Since I couldn't wait I bought 4 of each so I wouldn't have to pay shipping for the next 4 years.

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Bill_AirJunky

Just a guess, but if one of us were to do some official how-to on this, the pics & very specific instructions will vary depending on the age & model of boat & engine you have. Not to mention options like exhaust, fresh water or enclosed cooling, direct drive or v-drive, # of covers across the rear, etc. etc.

I use the Globe. It comes slimey. No lube necessary.

I did the lay on the engine & do the job blind routine a couple times. And it sucks. One thing that really helped me a LOT is remove the middle cover (my boat has 3 lids across the rear of the boat). The middle lid can be removed by pulling 2 quick release pins. Then set it aside. Takes like 1 minute. Then I can kneel on the swimstep & get both hands in to work on the impeller. I can't see it a lot better (muffler is still in the way), but my body is not contorted nearly as bad as when I did it from on top or on the sides. And I can get a much better grip on the impeller to pull it out. :rockon:

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...