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eyepeeler

Cannon Plug

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eyepeeler

My Cannon plug acted up a bit today. Air 60 and water 56. My boat wouldn't start so I jiggled the cannon plug and it started. We skied with no problem. Later I pulled the cannon plug and inspected the contacts. Contacts looked fairly good and looked like di-electric grease was inside the plug. What do you think? Do I need to do more?

Edited by eyepeeler

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REW

If the contacts are good on a cannon plug there wont be any dielectric grease on or in the plug. I would get some good conatct cleaner and clean out all the old greas and test the connections. If you need the dielectric grease reapply clean grease. Dielectric grease is the easy fix, the proper way is to replace the plug (no I would not do that unless absolutely necessary), however you may need to clean and reapply every once in a while.

Let us know how this goes, especially if it works without any of the dielectric.

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eyepeeler

This is the first time I had ever pulled that Cannon plug apart after 10 years so I figured the di-electric grease was factory applied.

Edited by eyepeeler

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REW

This is the first time I had ever pulled that Canon plug apart after 10 years so I figured the di-electric grease was factory applied.

May have been, My refrance is from military avionics and civilian aviation. Dielectric grease was not used unless as a temporary repair to get to the next location where the cannon plug could be repaired or the real problem addressed. However I would still clean it out and test the connectivity, the grease should not be used to make a connection just enhance a problem one. The acutal connection should be from the physical contact between the pins and the plug. Being as this may have been factory it's real purpose may be for corrosion controll, something that needs to be considered, replacing the grease will not do any harm at all just make sure that you don't have a path from one pin to a seperate plug. The crossing of the signals is why it is not used in the military avionics or aviation except as a temporary repair. This can cause ghost problems.

I hope this helps, that is all I am trying to do.,

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electricjohn

It's factory applied, but frankly I think they over do it. It's a good idea to mark the plug before pulling it apart, because it can go back together more than one way even though it is probably designed not to.

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eyepeeler

Finally cleaned my Cannon plug contacts. There was a light, dirty film on the contacts. Skied yesterday with air 62 water 55. Boat ran great and I think it started more "crisply".

Edited by eyepeeler

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eyepeeler

Anyone else have any more experience or advice with these plugs?

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electricjohn

These are the wires passing thru my cannon plug and where they go. The wire colors are from the helm side of the plug.

brown----coolant temperature gauge

purple----keyswitch to ignition and EFI relay power

light blue----oil pressure gauge

tan w/2 blue stripes----alarm buzzer from ECM

gray----tachometer from distributor connector

yellow w/2 red stripes---- keyswitch to auxilary starter solonoid

orange/ w black stripe----not sure where this wire goes at the helm, but it comes from the serial data terminal on the ECM

red---+12 volt for keyswich from engine circuit breaker

black--- -12 volts from engine ground

Edited by electricjohn

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Pistol Pete

Thanks John.

Just added that info. to my secret stash.

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Steve B.

I wanna say thanks too John.

My oil pressure guage was acting whacky until i cleaned the contacts too, and I noticed stronger starting after the cleaning too.

Steve B.

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Ness

I have issues with my cannon plug also. My mechanic said to spray the pins with WD-40. I am getting a BAD, BATT, or NORES reading on my LCD gauge as well as some flickering. I have heard that you must line up the plug the exact way it was removed (because there are 5 or 6 ways it can be plugged in), and that can cause problems.

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justgary

You can use a small screwdriver blade to flare the split male pins slightly to improve the contact. Don't bend them wildly, just barely move them apart.

Rather than WD-40, I use Corrosion Pro or LPS-3. Just a quick squirt in the sockets to help keep moisture out. No need to worry about the grease affecting signal crossing on a boat either, since almost everything in the plug is DC.

The plug should have an arrow on each piece to help with proper mating.

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