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CumminsBu

340HP Monsoon cam profile

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CumminsBu

Does anyone known the cam profile?

Edit:

Long story short. After winterizing my boat for the winter. I found the block has a crack just froward of the knock sensor. There was a rusty water drip mark coming from a crack in the paint. I removed the paint and lone be hold a crack in the block. Now the amazing part is there was no problem all summer and no water leaks that I knew of. When I changed the oil there was no water in it and no oil in the jacketed water when I pulled the knock sensor. So I believed the crack is only to the outside of the engine. Plus I put about 17 hrs on it this summer with no problems. I plan on running this engine into the ground next summer, but want to have plans and part ready to replace the block if it fails. I'm a diesel mechanic, so I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, but never touched a Chevy engine before this boat. Have built may Ford engines. Also looking into GM performance crate engine.

Edited by CumminsBu

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fedupracer

572ci big block! L0L!

:werule:

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Woodski

The camshaft should be P/N: 14097395. Lift: .287" / .300", Duration: 196 / 205 degrees @ .050" lift. (engines use 1.5 rockers).

On an outside crack, I have seen successful surgery using JB weld after you do a V grind in the crack. Not much pressure to push open a crack. Cracks are usually caused with the water freezing in cold months. Have seen this fix last several years.

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Lance B. Johnson

Yes, compared to a car (or diesel) there is relatively low cooling system pressure. Use the JB weld and you will probably get many more seasons out of it.

edit: if you do rebuild it yourself replacing the cam is a good idea, especially given that it is a SBC.

Edited by Ruffdog

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vette-ski

I *think* I still have the cam out of my 320 Monsoon (2001) stored away somewhere if you are interested in it. It has about 3 or 4 seasons of use on it, so it's not new. And I don't know if it's the same specs as the 340 monsoon. But I can look for it and see what info I have on it (specs, p/n, etc).

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CumminsBu

572ci big block! L0L!

:werule:

Would love too, but don't want the extra weight.

The camshaft should be P/N: 14097395. Lift: .287" / .300", Duration: 196 / 205 degrees @ .050" lift. (engines use 1.5 rockers).

On an outside crack, I have seen successful surgery using JB weld after you do a V grind in the crack. Not much pressure to push open a crack. Cracks are usually caused with the water freezing in cold months. Have seen this fix last several years.

Wow, that cam seems a little small to make 340HP?

So the ZZ4 350 Crate Engine from GM Performance Parts specs are:

The 350 crate engine of choice for many street rods, drag racers, and show cars, this aluminum 4-bolt small block gives a lot of bang for the buck starting with an undercut rolled/forged steel crankshaft, powdered metal connecting rods, and high-silicon aluminum pistons. Get even more power with a ZZ4 Valvetrain Package.

355 HP @ 5250 RPM

405 ft/lbs TQ @ 3500 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

10.1:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High-Silicon Aluminum Pistons with Offset Pins

PM Connecting Rods

Aluminum Angle Plug 58cc Cylinder Heads (1.94" Int/1.50" Exh valves)

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam (Lift: .474" Int/.510" Exh, Duration @ .050": 208° Int/221° Exh)

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8" Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75" Flexplate

or With FastBurn Heads:

This GM Performance engine uses the ZZ4 short block and adds to it the Fast Burn cylinder heads for 385 horsepower. The Fast Burn uses stamped steel 1.5 rocker arms and the same camshaft as the ZZ4, but these heads are hungry for more. The Fast Burn is an excellent choice for the basis of a custom engine. Its forged steel crankshaft and forged PM connecting rods are proven to 500 horsepower.

385 HP @ 5600 RPM

385 ft/lbs TQ @ 4000 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

9.6:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High Silicon Aluminum Pistons w/Offset Pins

PM Steel Connecting Rods

Aluminum 62cc Fast Burn Chamber Cylinder Heads w/ 2.00'' Int./ 1.55'' Exh. Valves

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam, Lift: .474'' Int./ .510'' Exh., Duration @ .050: 208° Int./ 221° Exh.

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8'' High-RPM Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75'' Flexplate

Recommended spark plug: Accel #111-0526-4 or any spark plug with 14mm .460" reach, 5/8" hex & tapered seat.

The plan would be to swap the Monsoon intake, ETX exhaust manifolds on, fuel and wiring systems.

Also does the Hammerhead run Aluminum heads?

Edited by CumminsBu

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Lance B. Johnson

Oh I get it....you WANT to swap the engine....and this give you a good reason :lol:

Good for you but if by chance you decide not to, I know it seems strange, but you can run it with the crack....

Would love too, but don't want the extra weight.

Wow, that cam seems a little small to make 340HP?

So the ZZ4 350 Crate Engine from GM Performance Parts specs are:

The 350 crate engine of choice for many street rods, drag racers, and show cars, this aluminum 4-bolt small block gives a lot of bang for the buck starting with an undercut rolled/forged steel crankshaft, powdered metal connecting rods, and high-silicon aluminum pistons. Get even more power with a ZZ4 Valvetrain Package.

355 HP @ 5250 RPM

405 ft/lbs TQ @ 3500 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

10.1:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High-Silicon Aluminum Pistons with Offset Pins

PM Connecting Rods

Aluminum Angle Plug 58cc Cylinder Heads (1.94" Int/1.50" Exh valves)

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam (Lift: .474" Int/.510" Exh, Duration @ .050": 208° Int/221° Exh)

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8" Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75" Flexplate

or With FastBurn Heads:

This GM Performance engine uses the ZZ4 short block and adds to it the Fast Burn cylinder heads for 385 horsepower. The Fast Burn uses stamped steel 1.5 rocker arms and the same camshaft as the ZZ4, but these heads are hungry for more. The Fast Burn is an excellent choice for the basis of a custom engine. Its forged steel crankshaft and forged PM connecting rods are proven to 500 horsepower.

385 HP @ 5600 RPM

385 ft/lbs TQ @ 4000 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

9.6:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High Silicon Aluminum Pistons w/Offset Pins

PM Steel Connecting Rods

Aluminum 62cc Fast Burn Chamber Cylinder Heads w/ 2.00'' Int./ 1.55'' Exh. Valves

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam, Lift: .474'' Int./ .510'' Exh., Duration @ .050: 208° Int./ 221° Exh.

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8'' High-RPM Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75'' Flexplate

Recommended spark plug: Accel #111-0526-4 or any spark plug with 14mm .460" reach, 5/8" hex & tapered seat.

The plan would be to swap the Monsoon intake, ETX exhaust manifolds on, fuel and wiring systems.

Also does the Hammerhead run Aluminum heads?

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Bobby Light

Would love too, but don't want the extra weight.

Wow, that cam seems a little small to make 340HP?

So the ZZ4 350 Crate Engine from GM Performance Parts specs are:

The 350 crate engine of choice for many street rods, drag racers, and show cars, this aluminum 4-bolt small block gives a lot of bang for the buck starting with an undercut rolled/forged steel crankshaft, powdered metal connecting rods, and high-silicon aluminum pistons. Get even more power with a ZZ4 Valvetrain Package.

355 HP @ 5250 RPM

405 ft/lbs TQ @ 3500 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

10.1:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High-Silicon Aluminum Pistons with Offset Pins

PM Connecting Rods

Aluminum Angle Plug 58cc Cylinder Heads (1.94" Int/1.50" Exh valves)

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam (Lift: .474" Int/.510" Exh, Duration @ .050": 208° Int/221° Exh)

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8" Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75" Flexplate

or With FastBurn Heads:

This GM Performance engine uses the ZZ4 short block and adds to it the Fast Burn cylinder heads for 385 horsepower. The Fast Burn uses stamped steel 1.5 rocker arms and the same camshaft as the ZZ4, but these heads are hungry for more. The Fast Burn is an excellent choice for the basis of a custom engine. Its forged steel crankshaft and forged PM connecting rods are proven to 500 horsepower.

385 HP @ 5600 RPM

385 ft/lbs TQ @ 4000 RPM (Max Recommended RPM: 5800)

9.6:1 Compression Ratio

Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal

Forged Steel Crankshaft

High Silicon Aluminum Pistons w/Offset Pins

PM Steel Connecting Rods

Aluminum 62cc Fast Burn Chamber Cylinder Heads w/ 2.00'' Int./ 1.55'' Exh. Valves

Steel Hydraulic Roller Cam, Lift: .474'' Int./ .510'' Exh., Duration @ .050: 208° Int./ 221° Exh.

1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms

Aluminum Dual Plane Intake Manifold

HEI Distributor

8'' High-RPM Torsional Damper

Cast Iron Water Pump

12.75'' Flexplate

Recommended spark plug: Accel #111-0526-4 or any spark plug with 14mm .460" reach, 5/8" hex & tapered seat.

The plan would be to swap the Monsoon intake, ETX exhaust manifolds on, fuel and wiring systems.

Also does the Hammerhead run Aluminum heads?

If you're looking to swap to a HH from a Monsoon it's much more than just a cam. You're looking at the fuel injection, heads, cam, block, computer, etc... IIRC. Not just a simple swap.

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CumminsBu

The plan for now is to run the engine with JB weld on the crack until it fails and with my luck I'm sure it will. :whistle:

That is why I'm researching and organizing a plan for a replacement engine. So far I have decided to stay with the 350 size block, and would like to upgrade to the GMPP Aluminum Fast Burn heads, these are the same heads the HH use. The intake manifold, ETX exhaust manifolds and other stuff from my Monsoon. I just can't decide on a Cam, so may to choose. :biggrin:

I know I can buy a replacement from the dealer but what is the fun in that. :crazy:

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Bobby Light

The plan for now is to run the engine with JB weld on the crack until it fails and with my luck I'm sure it will. :whistle:

That is why I'm researching and organizing a plan for a replacement engine. So far I have decided to stay with the 350 size block, and would like to upgrade to the GMPP Aluminum Fast Burn heads, these are the same heads the HH use. The intake manifold, ETX exhaust manifolds and other stuff from my Monsoon. I just can't decide on a Cam, so may to choose. :biggrin:

I know I can buy a replacement from the dealer but what is the fun in that. :crazy:

Since you're a mechanic I'm sure it'll be a breeze for you. I'd try it to, I just wonder if the computer will hold you back from getting more power. I'd call up Paul at Bakes on that one he's pretty sharp on that stuff. He could at least point you in the right direction in what will be a direct bolt up without having to get a new computer.

Edited by 06vlx

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DONTW8

Here is a question for all of you hot-shoe-motorheads :lol:

Can he substitute a 383 small block and still use all of his other components ?

Cubic inches and torque work so well in a boat that may be a nice upgrade.

I love ZZ4's and Fast Burn 350's but wonder if a 383 would work better in a boat.

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Steve B.

I'm wondering if the ECM will work it's magic correctly with different valve timing and other magic settings?

Steve B.

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Woodski

I did the fast burn head / ZZ4 cam swap and am very happy with the results. More power (added top end), as much if not just a bit more torque and I shed over 200# in the process with all the aluminum stuff. I also did a host of other mods, including aluminum exhaust manifolds, my own 4" exhaust system, cold air intake, timing and fuel calibration tweaks. Compression in my case is 10:1. The ZZ4 cam works great and does not negatively affect idle or roll on power which is very important for these boats, I would go that route. Easy upgrade to do, you don't have to pull the engine, but you do need to twist it slightly for the cam swap (won't clear the pylon). Makes a great barefoot combination and great short set up combination as 0-36 or 0-40 mph times are short. This boat is used mainly for skiing and barefooting and the power curve is perfect for it. Hope this helps. Another option for more "cam" would be to simply swap to a set of 1.6 rockers, easy swap and lots of vendors offer them.

No question, a 383 would be nice, so if the lower end is needed certainly worth considering. Would be a straight drop in swap as external dimensions are the same. I am always surprised at how good a base 310hp setup is for the acceleration out of the hole and up to 36 mph, that is really a very good combination.

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Bake's Marine

Here is a question for all of you hot-shoe-motorheads :lol:

Can he substitute a 383 small block and still use all of his other components ?

Cubic inches and torque work so well in a boat that may be a nice upgrade.

I love ZZ4's and Fast Burn 350's but wonder if a 383 would work better in a boat.

yes, its been done going both directions (Hammerhead to Monsoon and Hammerhead to Monsoon) as long as there is a calibration for that controller to support the motor you are switching to.

I'm wondering if the ECM will work it's magic correctly with different valve timing and other magic settings?

Steve B.

The ECM HAS to be re-calibrated for the motor that is in it.

-Paul

Edited by Bake's Marine

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CumminsBu

Paul,

So the injectors can support the 383?

Do you know the part number for the HH cam?

I want to look the specs up.

Thanks

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Bawshogg

Another option may be using stich pinning to shore up he crack. It's actually a pretty neat trick when you see it done and is a well siuted repair for this type of situation. May be able to have it done without removing the motor also.

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Bake's Marine

I don't know if this is right, it was on a old Hammerhead document i had from service school...

Camshaft 12370846 Hydraulic Roller

I have a set of GM aluminum Fastburn heads i was going to list up on e-bay :)

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Steve B.

I did the fast burn head / ZZ4 cam swap and am very happy with the results. More power (added top end), as much if not just a bit more torque and I shed over 200# in the process with all the aluminum stuff. I also did a host of other mods, including aluminum exhaust manifolds, my own 4" exhaust system, cold air intake, timing and fuel calibration tweaks. Compression in my case is 10:1. The ZZ4 cam works great and does not negatively affect idle or roll on power which is very important for these boats, I would go that route. Easy upgrade to do, you don't have to pull the engine, but you do need to twist it slightly for the cam swap (won't clear the pylon). Makes a great barefoot combination and great short set up combination as 0-36 or 0-40 mph times are short. This boat is used mainly for skiing and barefooting and the power curve is perfect for it. Hope this helps. Another option for more "cam" would be to simply swap to a set of 1.6 rockers, easy swap and lots of vendors offer them.

No question, a 383 would be nice, so if the lower end is needed certainly worth considering. Would be a straight drop in swap as external dimensions are the same. I am always surprised at how good a base 310hp setup is for the acceleration out of the hole and up to 36 mph, that is really a very good combination.

I'd like to do something very similiar in a project down the road. I'd just like to replace the stock cam, with an original, but use roller rockers on the aluminum heads and aluminum exhaust and tinkering with idea of electric water circulating pump.

The only other mod's I'd like to do are hi peformance distrubutor and ignition, plugs. So, she's easy starting and still reliable.

Old ford turned chevy gear head Steve B.

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Lance B. Johnson

Another option may be using stich pinning to shore up he crack. It's actually a pretty neat trick when you see it done and is a well siuted repair for this type of situation. May be able to have it done without removing the motor also.

Good call.....I would look into it for sure.

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Woodski

Steve, I removed the circ. pump on the engine and just have the Jabsco doing the job, works just fine but there is less lag on an impeller failure and also got rid of 70# of stuff (better wake for slalom). I don't think there is a big need on the ignition side, not much heat in the engine bay compared to a car although I did swap for some Taylor wires and use some good plugs. When you do go to the aluminum heads/intake, it does take a bit more to warm up the engine particularly if you use the boat in colder water.

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Deephaven

I don't see why not *hopes* that a standard Megasquirt controller would work with the Marine ECU. Has anyone confirmed that? If so, it opens the doors to sort of do whatever you like...

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Woodski

The ECU is basically a MEFI-4 so that can be swapped out if needed.

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Nitrousbird

Why is anyone suggesting a 383 when you can do a 396 for basically the same money? A 383 or 396 will require a change in crank/pistons/rods, and the block will have to machined for either, just slightly more for the 396. Since you are running an N/A motor there is no benefit to a 383...why not get those extra few cubic inches for a couple bucks in machining more?

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CumminsBu

Why is anyone suggesting a 383 when you can do a 396 for basically the same money? A 383 or 396 will require a change in crank/pistons/rods, and the block will have to machined for either, just slightly more for the 396. Since you are running an N/A motor there is no benefit to a 383...why not get those extra few cubic inches for a couple bucks in machining more?

I'm sure I can do the math but how much do you have to bore the cylinder over, because the GMPP "ZZ" blocks can be bore over to make them a 400, running a 4.125" cylinder bore! Thanks! :thumbup:

Edited by CumminsBu

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