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07 VTX

Ballast Tank Drain.

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07 VTX

Are these hoses used to drain the ballast tanks?

IMG_0349.jpg

07 VTX 340 Monsoon.

Edited by 07 VTX

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Bawshogg

No. Those hoses are vented loops to keep siphons from occuring and draining the tanks. They are in essence the highest point in the system, or at least supposed to be. Why are you concerned? Just asking.

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TallRedRider

Are these hoses used to drain the ballast tanks?

IMG_0349.jpg

07 VTX 340 Monsoon.

No. Those hoses are vented loops to keep siphons from occuring and draining the tanks. They are in essence the highest point in the system, or at least supposed to be. Why are you concerned? Just asking.

You are both mistaken. Those are antisiphon valves on the fill lines to prevent siphoning (autofilling) of water FROM the lake INTO the ballast tanks. They are located on your fill lines. The tanks could never drain themselves more than a tiny amount with a siphon anyway since the emptying ports are near the top of the tank.

I have proven that it is necessary when I removed one and my center tank was magically 1/3-1/2 full within less than 10 minutes of hitting the water. The part that is actually up for debate is how high they need to be. I then relocated it within the same compartment as the center tank with the very tip of the valve only about 1/2 inch above the top of the tank, and for a 2 day trip after that, it worked wonderfully. No autofilling and it eliminated about 14 feet of hose, so I can't help but think it made the system faster.

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Bawshogg

Same thing. They prevent siphoning. Suck it. And they can drain past the pumps. They are at the lowest point in the system. THE HULL.....BELOW THE WATER LINE.

Edited by Bawshogg

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TallRedRider

Same thing. They prevent siphoning. Suck it. And they can drain past the pumps. They are at the lowest point in the system. THE HULL.....BELOW THE WATER LINE.

Yes, the tanks will auto drain as well, but they could never drain more than below the level of the intake ports. I learned that with my little experiment as well. I emptied the tanks on my way to the ramp, and by the time I got the tow vehicle to the launch, the tank was already full again. I forgot about the problem. As I pulled up the ramp, water started pouring out the bottom of the boat through the fill pump. But it never would have emptied more than 1-2 inches from the top of the tank because the siphon would have broken once the water level in the tank went below the intake port that it was draining from.

There are no antisiphon valves on the drain lines. The siphoning out of the tank never happens on the lake because the water in the lake blocks it from happening.

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Bawshogg

Nobody cares, nor did they ask about your " little test " . The OP asked if those anti-siphons were used to "DRAIN THE TANKS" . I said NO. Read the post. Told him what they are for, and you stated that were were both mistaken. HOW? I never siad they were on the drain lines. Wanna bet on the siphoning thing? Nevermind. This one is on two wheels already. No need to completely derail it.

Edited by Bawshogg

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david_t_hill

Nobody cares, nor did they ask about your " little test " . The OP asked if those anti-siphons were used to "DRAIN THE TANKS" . I said NO. Read the post. Told him what they are for, and you stated that were were both mistaken. HOW? I never siad they were on the drain lines. Wanna bet on the siphoning thing? Nevermind. This one is on two wheels already. No need to completely derail it.

I thought it was quite informative.

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07 VTX

Bawshogg.............Other than just curious, I am in the process of winterizing my VTX and am wondering how to fully drain the ballast tanks. If the tanks can not be completely emptied, is there an easy way to get anti-freeze in the tanks and pumps?

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TallRedRider

No. Those hoses are vented loops to keep siphons from occuring and draining the tanks. They are in essence the highest point in the system, or at least supposed to be. Why are you concerned? Just asking.

No need to get upset. Sincere apologies that I came across wrong. I should have stated it differently. I think you have seen me enough that you know I am not trying to start an argument.

Read your statement. The anti siphon valves are there to keep the tanks from filling, not draining. The tank drains perfectly well without them, and never drains unexpectedly without them.

My little anecdote was just to illustrate how I learned that the valves are necessary. Trying to think ahead if the OP was thinking of removing them.

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nyryan2001

my previous dealer said for winterization, do your best to drain the tanks via the pumps as best as possible, then pull the cartridge on each pump for a few seconds to release and drain any remaining water in the lines, that may end up filling at the pump and freeze there...

Seems like in spring, folks come on here with weird cracks in their tank fittings, right at the drains and fittings to the tanks. I wonder if some of those cracks are from freeze damage... those fittings are 3/4" or so, hard plastic, not very big, and dont allow much room for freeze expansion.

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TallRedRider

Bawshogg.............Other than just curious, I am in the process of winterizing my VTX and am wondering how to fully drain the ballast tanks. If the tanks can not be completely emptied, is there an easy way to get anti-freeze in the tanks and pumps?

You could use a fake a lake to get antifreeze into the system. It might be tough to get it into the drain unless the tank got full enough with antifreeze to then discharge it too. I would do what Nyryan suggested, might also give it a blast with an air compressor through the discharge line.

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fredtopp

I've had a few dramas with my stern tank on starboard side self draining while the boat is moving .... The cap on the siphon bend was screwed shut ( probably when it was getting serviced it got fooled with)

So I loosened it an it worked . But there was still a slight syponing ...

When I took the cap off a small rubber plug fell in to the hull so I just put the cap back on an it stopped the problems strait away

So in my case it was emptying from the the fill line , I'm guessing cause there was no air lock

Is this correct ???

Edit; An can any one tell me what that rubber peice would of been , do I need it , an should I go get another

thanks guys

Ft

Edited by fredtopp

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Bawshogg

I've had a few dramas with my stern tank on starboard side self draining while the boat is moving .... The cap on the siphon bend was screwed shut ( probably when it was getting serviced it got fooled with)

So I loosened it an it worked . But there was still a slight syponing ...

When I took the cap off a small rubber plug fell in to the hull so I just put the cap back on an it stopped the problems strait away

So in my case it was emptying from the the fill line , I'm guessing cause there was no air lock

Is this correct ???

Edit; An can any one tell me what that rubber peice would of been , do I need it , an should I go get another

thanks guys

Ft

DING DING DING!....................WE have a winner! . There is a small rubber disc that sits under the cap. The bleed hole in the cap gets shut off by the rubber disk when water pressure from the pump closes it. As soon as pressure is lost from the pump the disk falls, allows air into the system and breaks the siphon effect. If the cap is screwed tight it will not allow air into the line, thus creating a siphon to the lowest point in the system. I would definetly replace it. Just buy a new siphon break and replace the disk. Or take a known good one out and see if you can find another substitute at the hardware store. Jabsco, Attwood, Forespar. and RC marine all make them. Mine are RC Marine. Take a look at yours. It might be easier just to call them and see if they will send ya one free. Most the time they will.

Edited by Bawshogg

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Bawshogg

Bawshogg.............Other than just curious, I am in the process of winterizing my VTX and am wondering how to fully drain the ballast tanks. If the tanks can not be completely emptied, is there an easy way to get anti-freeze in the tanks and pumps?

Well, I wish I had a good tip for ya, but I store my boat indoors , and have with all of them. I have never had any issues or worried about adding anti-freeze to the system. Being that the aerator pumps dont self prime, it would be tough with a fake-a-lake. I'd say a suction gun(cheap at Harbor Frieght) with a garden hose (3/4') hose fitting adapted to it would work well. Screw it onto the through-hull and shoot a pint or so through the system. Should work??????

Edited by Bawshogg

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07 VTX

Everybody thanks for your very informative and educational replies.

After doing further internet research and checking with the dealer, to prepare the ballast system for the winter is very easy. Basically, with the boat on the trailer, all that's needs to be done is run the ballast fill pump for a few seconds then run the drain until water stops pumping out. The pump, it seems, is self draining and what small amount of water that is left in the ballast tank is not enough to cause any freezing problems.

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cwkoch

Just to be safe, I ran antifreeze into my tanks last year. It's tricky, but not too bad.

You need:

5 gallon bucket

Water/sump type pump

hose

fake-a-lake

ball valve in hose to control flow to fake-a-lake- otherwise, it's too much pressure and shoots antifreeze all over!

Just run about 2 or 3 gallons of antifreeze into a tank using the fill pump, and fake-a-lake. Once that's into the tank, go to the empty port on the side of the hull and have your helper kick the drain pump on for that tank. It recycles your antifreeze from the tank back to the bucket. (Just hold the bucket up and catch it as it flows out) Any water left in the tank/fittings/pumps is safely diluted. Make sure your tanks are as dry as possible before hand so you're not diluting your antifreeze too much by the time you get to the last tank.

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TallRedRider

Everybody thanks for your very informative and educational replies.

After doing further internet research and checking with the dealer, to prepare the ballast system for the winter is very easy. Basically, with the boat on the trailer, all that's needs to be done is run the ballast fill pump for a few seconds then run the drain until water stops pumping out. The pump, it seems, is self draining and what small amount of water that is left in the ballast tank is not enough to cause any freezing problems.

That is assuming that you do not have any low points in your plumbing. If your plumbing makes an S curve anywhere in the system, then there will be a pocket of water that will freeze and may crack the hose. I am sure that the way my hoses were routed from my center tank that I would have a low point full of water on the intake hoses. Fortunately, a hard freeze is pretty unlikely for me since it stays in the garage, and the previous owner kept the boat in a garage in southern california in the winter.

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07 VTX

TrailRedRider..............I agree in that the hoses may still have some water in them. However, because the hoses a made of rubber, wouldn't the hose simply expand if the water freezes? The ballast tanks, on the other hand, are made of hard plastic that could crack if left full of water. Hence, by draining the tanks, any residual water left in the tank would have room to expand. Please, correct me if my logic incorrect. Thanks.

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TallRedRider

That is assuming that you do not have any low points in your plumbing. If your plumbing makes an S curve anywhere in the system, then there will be a pocket of water that will freeze and may crack the hose. I am sure that the way my hoses were routed from my center tank that I would have a low point full of water on the intake hoses. Fortunately, a hard freeze is pretty unlikely for me since it stays in the garage, and the previous owner kept the boat in a garage in southern california in the winter.

TrailRedRider..............I agree in that the hoses may still have some water in them. However, because the hoses a made of rubber, wouldn't the hose simply expand if the water freezes? The ballast tanks, on the other hand, are made of hard plastic that could crack if left full of water. Hence, by draining the tanks, any residual water left in the tank would have room to expand. Please, correct me if my logic incorrect. Thanks.

You are possibly right. Come to think of it, I have not seen a lot of broken hoses threads...and assume that most people do what your dealer recommended to you. My worry is that the rubber becomes pretty stiff when cold, and may not stretch. My hoses were 'relatively' flat before I moved the antisiphon valve, and now I created a blatant U in the system and that might make a difference....so if you did anything similar, I would keep a very careful eye on it.

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jrw1

I failed a mussel inspection recently at a California lake because they made me pull the front cushions on the front my my 07 wakesetter and shake the front tank. Sure enough ... a small amount of water in it.

Background:

1. Pulled the boat from the lake, drained the tanks on the ramp

2. Boat sat in hot weather for 4 weeks

3. Ran the drain pumps 2 hrs before I made it to the boat ramp

4. Ran the drain pumps at the inspection station ... no water comes out.

Is there a good angle to park the boat to get all the water out?

Anything else we can do to drain the tanks?

Its annoying to get turned around at a ramp. Even worse to transport those darn mussels to a clean lake! I want a dry boat. help me out!

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