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fedupracer

More Hp

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fedupracer

does anyone have a why to reprogram the engine computer for more HP and torque in the newer boat? Something like what they make for cars.. besides pulling the engine and doing cam swaps and other stuff is their a easy way for more preformance? ;)

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Pistol Pete

Nope.

Easiest thing to do is swap the prop for what you want.

You want more hole shot or, more top speed?

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DONTW8

Nope.

Easiest thing to do is swap the prop for what you want.

You want more hole shot or, more top speed?

:plus1:

What Pete Said.

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Woodski

Calibrations for a marine engine are different from a car in the respect that there are no limitations or constraints on emissions levels to consider, therefore, one can set the calibration closer to a performance optimum. There are companies that can modify or change the calibration or offer a calibration of thier own for a marine application, but it is not an industry or offer the gains like one sees for road cars. If you do want to increase performance, you will be looking at hard part changes (exhaust systems, camshaft, cylinder head, compression ratio changes, etc.). As noted, the prop will be one of the most significant changes you can make, you can tailor the performance curve dramatically with a prop change (remember, a gain in one area will result in a loss somewhere else, it's not like free horsepower).

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Deephaven

Nope.

Easiest thing to do is swap the prop for what you want.

You want more hole shot or, more top speed?

I am not the OP, but I want both. Prop won't help with that ;)

That being said if fedupracer is looking for what i want, he probably won't like the answer. Engine reprogramming is really not so beneficial anymore with any engine unless there is a forced induction system attached to it. The manufacturers are pretty good at getting both near max power and low emissions in one shot. Considering your boat doesn't have forced induction any sort of reprogram will offer you extremely small gains that really aren't worthwhile. These gains could have the negative effect of leaning things out too much and causing premature wear on your engine.

Basically you have a few things you can play with, but they all stem around pumping more air through your motor and will require hardware. Better flowing heads, bigger cam to lift the valves higher, better flowing intake, higher flow injectors to compensate for the extra air and then of course the easiest option which is to add a supercharger. Turbo's may be more efficient, but I wouldn't want to try to deal with the extra heat in the engine bay. Being naturally a not ultra high compression ratio engine in general they should take to supercharging pretty well. Hopefully I'll get to find out as I have a centrifugal charger sitting in my basement from a previous car. The only thing holding me back atm is the time to attack the project.

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Jimmypooh

Being naturally a not ultra high compression ratio engine in general they should take to supercharging pretty well. Hopefully I'll get to find out as I have a centrifugal charger sitting in my basement from a previous car. The only thing holding me back atm is the time to attack the project.

Looking forward to seeing you project documented.

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Bill_AirJunky

Seems like these hipo engines are still going to be fighting against a hull that is not really designed to go fast. :unsure:

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Deephaven

Looking forward to seeing you project documented.

When/if I get the time it will be. Have some other modifications to make to the boat first that are more important, but it is something I'd like to do with minimal cost to me.

Seems like these hipo engines are still going to be fighting against a hull that is not really designed to go fast. :unsure:

They offer the LSA for a reason :)

I don't expect it to do what my bassboat does and if I feel the need to go 80 I can still drive that, but I'd like a little more on both ends. Really I'd like to prop for speed, but not lose the grunt on the bottom so that when cruising I am at a lower rpm. Power is the only way to achieve that.

Edited by Deephaven

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Bill_AirJunky

When/if I get the time it will be. Have some other modifications to make to the boat first that are more important, but it is something I'd like to do with minimal cost to me.

They offer the LSA for a reason :)

I don't expect it to do what my bassboat does and if I feel the need to go 80 I can still drive that, but I'd like a little more on both ends. Really I'd like to prop for speed, but not lose the grunt on the bottom so that when cruising I am at a lower rpm. Power is the only way to achieve that.

True. But it's not to go faster. It's to go the same speed with more ballast on board.

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Deephaven

True. But it's not to go faster. It's to go the same speed with more ballast on board.

With a standard prop they do go faster though as well ;)

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Nitrousbird

does anyone have a why to reprogram the engine computer for more HP and torque in the newer boat? Something like what they make for cars.. besides pulling the engine and doing cam swaps and other stuff is their a easy way for more preformance? ;)

For most cars, a retune is a waste of money on a stock car (at least for a normally aspirated one). In cases of those hand-held deals, I've seen severe lean conditions caused by them as well. Same deal is likely to be seen with a boat motor.

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Spicoli

Deephaven - What specific mods are you gonna do before you throw the s/c on it?

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fedupracer

thanks for all the imput, i like the idea of s/c and i have some alum heads from the race car laying around would like to get h/p up around 400 just to get better hole shot and lower rpms around cruzing.i know its not a drag boat but i owned a mastercraft before this boat and WOW it came out of the hole 10 times faster then the malibu, ;)

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Deephaven

True. But it's not to go faster. It's to go the same speed with more ballast on board.

One other comment on that. I live on a big lake. LOTS of cruising. The hull seems to respond much nicer to the waves at 30mph than 25, but I am already at screaming RPM's by that time. Considering how much drive time there will be in the boat I want to lower the rpm without losing the response.

Deephaven - What specific mods are you gonna do before you throw the s/c on it?

Haven't thought that far ahead yet. Definitely be a winter spring project and not a September one. May not do anything outside of ECU work, but can't really say until I figure out more what Indmar used. Might be a slightly newer one to do it to as well because once I do that I'll keep what I build a long time and I am not sure I am ready to do that with the blue one.

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martinarcher

Calibrations for a marine engine are different from a car in the respect that there are no limitations or constraints on emissions levels to consider, therefore, one can set the calibration closer to a performance optimum. There are companies that can modify or change the calibration or offer a calibration of thier own for a marine application, but it is not an industry or offer the gains like one sees for road cars. If you do want to increase performance, you will be looking at hard part changes (exhaust systems, camshaft, cylinder head, compression ratio changes, etc.). As noted, the prop will be one of the most significant changes you can make, you can tailor the performance curve dramatically with a prop change (remember, a gain in one area will result in a loss somewhere else, it's not like free horsepower).

Right on. I'm loving the extra few ponies I got from my exhaust project. When ballasted heavy the boat keeps speed much much better now. One of the guys at work keeps bugging me about a pair of 202 heads his machinist has for sale. They were worked for his race car, but he elected to go the Vortec route. I can't decide if a pair of 202 heads with a port/polish, triple valve grind, and stainless valves would get me the same ponies as swapping a pair of Vortec heads and an Edelbrock Performer intake. Dontknow.gif I'm not up on the old 202 heads and what they would flow with some machining work.

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martinarcher

One other comment on that. I live on a big lake. LOTS of cruising. The hull seems to respond much nicer to the waves at 30mph than 25, but I am already at screaming RPM's by that time. Considering how much drive time there will be in the boat I want to lower the rpm without losing the response.

Haven't thought that far ahead yet. Definitely be a winter spring project and not a September one. May not do anything outside of ECU work, but can't really say until I figure out more what Indmar used. Might be a slightly newer one to do it to as well because once I do that I'll keep what I build a long time and I am not sure I am ready to do that with the blue one.

Sounds like a fun project. I took my 95' Ford Escort in college and swapped a 2.0L out of a Focus and turbo charged it. It was a blast. I used all Greddy parts for fuel management.

If you do SC your boat motor just be sure to take care of feeding it the proper fuel and pulling the timing under boost. You will certainly have to up your injectors and use something to control the fuel delivery or you'll be doing some damage to your pistons in a hurry.

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WakesetterE

Those 202 heads are obsolete these days, even after highly modified they don't flow like a Dart or newer casting. Also, they don't have hardened valve seats needed for unleaded gas, unless some one has added the press in hardened seats....which often come out. Looks like adding cubic inches will improve torque and HP....

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martinarcher

Those 202 heads are obsolete these days, even after highly modified they don't flow like a Dart or newer casting. Also, they don't have hardened valve seats needed for unleaded gas, unless some one has added the press in hardened seats....which often come out. Looks like adding cubic inches will improve torque and HP....

That's what I figured. They do have pressed in stainless valve seats, but there's a reason he built these heads up and then decided to run the Vortecs....I think if I swap heads I'll go for the Vortecs. Thumbup.gif

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Steve B.

That's what I figured. They do have pressed in stainless valve seats, but there's a reason he built these heads up and then decided to run the Vortecs....I think if I swap heads I'll go for the Vortecs. Thumbup.gif

These things need to be done delicately sometimes. All components should work as a team to get the desired affect.

Inatake size, spring compression, rockers, compression, timing, cam, fuel system all can mate better with different combinations.

Sometimes a smaller, better tuned, but less friction engine can outperform a higher friction bigger throaty engine.

Steve B.

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WakesetterE

Ok, I have to ask?

What are you thinking that is smaller that will out perform the crate motor ZZ572? The ZZ572 are built around an all-new generation VI one piece main seal tall deck 572 cid with approximately 9.6:1 compression, 620 hp at 5,500 rpm, and 650 ft./lbs. of torque at 4,500 rpm with a recommended max rpm of 6,000.

Pump gas friendly, massive torque and horsepower...

Lets keep that torque figure in mind as we all know it's what pushes the boat thru the water! I stayed with pump gas to play fair.....Biggrin.gif

There is a nice supercharged 350: Edelbrock's E-Force supercharged crate engines produce a powerful 507 hp and 487 ft.-lbs. of torque! I bet both are throaty...

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Bobby Light

When/if I get the time it will be. Have some other modifications to make to the boat first that are more important, but it is something I'd like to do with minimal cost to me.

They offer the LSA for a reason :)I don't expect it to do what my bassboat does and if I feel the need to go 80 I can still drive that, but I'd like a little more on both ends. Really I'd like to prop for speed, but not lose the grunt on the bottom so that when cruising I am at a lower rpm. Power is the only way to achieve that.

Yeah so the boat will do 50 instead of 45 :lol: .

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Deephaven

Yeah so the boat will do 50 instead of 45 :lol: .

The way mine's propped 36 is pretty much it with any load.

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Nitrousbird

Yeah so the boat will do 50 instead of 45 :lol: .

From what I hear the LSA boats will hit speeds in the 60's.

My LS1 boat (nearly 200HP less) hits 47 MPH bouncing off the rev limiter, and I'm positive would go significantly quicker with a different prop while still having the pulling power needed to get on plane weighted down...within reason. Too many Malibu owners run around excusing their base, outdated GEN-I SBC in their 60k+ boats and pretend the extra HP is useless. :)

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Bobby Light

From what I hear the LSA boats will hit speeds in the 60's.

My LS1 boat (nearly 200HP less) hits 47 MPH bouncing off the rev limiter, and I'm positive would go significantly quicker with a different prop while still having the pulling power needed to get on plane weighted down...within reason. Too many Malibu owners run around excusing their base, outdated GEN-I SBC in their 60k+ boats and pretend the extra HP is useless. :)

You heard wrong, that's already been disproven by members on here who have them.

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Woodski

Martin, the Vortec's would be a very good selection, will allow you to easily squeeze an extra 100hp if you want (I am assuming you have the pre Vortec heads on your engine now). The Vortec's flow much better and were introduced in '96 on the C/K pick up's. I am running a set of fast burn 385's which are great, and for me as a slalomer, losing the weight was also a key to picking those over a cast iron cylinder head.

PS: 400 hp will push a light weight Response/Echelon to the mid 50's, the added weight for the wake crowd does have a significant impact on top end as it adds that much more to the wetted surface area. Hard to outrun those 1800 pound bass boats!

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