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Jimmypooh

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Some of you may not have seen the new lift that we're finishing up.

DSC00097.jpg

See the full thread about building the lift system here.

These are the D rings we are using for the back straps. Does anyone know if there is a problem with the weight being distributed sideways on these rather than vertically? If it makes a difference, the D Rings are rated for 2 or 3.75 tons each (I cant remember which we bought).

41LqqXnREcL._SL500_SS120_.jpg

You can see the D rings we are using in this picture.

DSC00134.jpg

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That D-ring should be strongest when you have the thru-bolt loaded in shear, and you have the thru-bolt loaded in tension. Basically you are putting all of the load on the threads of the thru-bolt, rather than having the shear load on the thicker cross section of the bolt. The D-rings will likely be weaker loading them the way that you are. How much weaker? I cannot say, but the manufacturer could probably answer that question for you.

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Shackles really aren't made to be lifted sideways like that, you'll be relying on the strength of the threads that way instead of the shackles design. The other thing to make sure of is that they are not made in China. There were some bad batches and counterfeit shackles that were nowhere near good for the weight rating stamped on them. Crosby shackles are some of the best made and are made on the USA. Not the city USA that is in China, not joking.

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Just turn it so that the strap is on the bolt. It'll work just fine. For future enhancements weld a ring to the bottom of the that overkill i-beam spreader bar you have, and attach a short strap to a snap hook. I would recommend adding a short spreader bar on the front, just to stop compressing the rubrail. A 2"x2"x30" tube 1/4" wall is perfect for the front.

Peter :)

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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I wouldn't do that, that is actually a very scary picture. As others have said, you are putting the weight on the threads of the bolt...1/16th thick? Instead of the way it is designed, the whole thickness of the bolt and/or ears.

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Just turn it so that the strap is on the bolt. It'll work just fine. For future enhancements weld a ring to the bottom of the that overkill i-beam spreader bar you have, and attach a short strap to a snap hook. I would recommend adding a short spreader bar on the front, just to stop compressing the rubrail. A 2"x2"x30" tube 1/4" wall is perfect for the front.

Peter :)

Would he be better off to just install a lift ring? Or are those for occasional use only?

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The D-rings will likely be weaker loading them the way that you are. How much weaker? I cannot say, but the manufacturer could probably answer that question for you.

Thanks. I might call the manufacturer if I can't find a better solution

The other thing to make sure of is that they are not made in China. There were some bad batches and counterfeit shackles that were nowhere near good for the weight rating stamped on them. Crosby shackles are some of the best made and are made on the USA. Not the city USA that is in China, not joking.

Good info, Thanks!

Just turn it so that the strap is on the bolt. It'll work just fine. For future enhancements weld a ring to the bottom of the that overkill i-beam spreader bar you have, and attach a short strap to a snap hook. I would recommend adding a short spreader bar on the front, just to stop compressing the rubrail. A 2"x2"x30" tube 1/4" wall is perfect for the front.

Peter :)

We know the spreader bar is overkill, but don't really know what size appropriate would be, so we just made it overkill. It's not hurting anything.

We can't simply put the strap along the bolt because the strap is too wide and doesn't bend. I might have to find some wider D Rings or think of a different solution.

We can't put the strap all the way through the eyes on the boat because the strap is tripled at the center and doesn't fit. I can only get about 1/3 of the strap through the eye. We were planning on just hooking both loops to the spreader bar. That would have been ideal.

We tried using a choker but that left the straps too long and the boat didn't get lifted high enough.

I wouldn't do that, that is actually a very scary picture. As others have said, you are putting the weight on the threads of the bolt...1/16th thick? Instead of the way it is designed, the whole thickness of the bolt and/or ears.

I don't know if I would call is scary since the shackle is already overkill as it is, and not all the weight is being held by the threads since the top end of the shackle is holding some of the weight too. I agree that this is not the ideal solution. I'd love to hear other ideas

Would he be better off to just install a lift ring? Or are those for occasional use only?

It is used every time the boat is used. I thought of a lifting hook, but didn't want to use that because over years the hook would eventually scratch the boat around the eyes.

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Can you just use a smaller strap? Thinner to go through the eye and shorter to hook over the spreader like your original plan.

They would have to be 2 ton straps (to make me feel good) and be 3 feet long and still fit through the eyes. I haven't been able to find any.

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I think you should completely rebuild your rear spreader. Some day someone is going to let go of that thing and put a huge hole in your bu...

What if you made some sort of V. The lift would hook at the low center and the arms would be raised up. if it starts to swing it would never hit the boat. Then you could also use longer straps.

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How about a short length of chain and just use something to cover the chain? Like a noodle that all the kids use to swim with or beat each other depending on their mood :innocent: .

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They would have to be 2 ton straps (to make me feel good) and be 3 feet long and still fit through the eyes. I haven't been able to find any.

How wide are the straps now? They look to be wider than 1". You could do a 2 ply 1" strap and as you are using them in a basket configuration the load rating on them more than doubles. So a 2 ply 1" nylon rigging sling would be good for 6500# each using them in the basket configuration like you are.

Looking at the way you have the straps rigged up to the spreader bar would have to change though. You really can't have a rigging strap with a load on it around or on a sharp corner like that.

Edited by 06vlx
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I don't know if I would call is scary since the shackle is already overkill as it is, and not all the weight is being held by the threads since the top end of the shackle is holding some of the weight too. I agree that this is not the ideal solution. I'd love to hear other ideas

It is used every time the boat is used. I thought of a lifting hook, but didn't want to use that because over years the hook would eventually scratch the boat around the eyes.

True, 1/2 the weight is on the threads, you're right.

On the lift ring, I meant for the front of the boat. Here's one on the front of my boat. Also, try this website Wiscolift. Send them the pic you posted, I'll bet they will have or design something for you that is perfect for the back of your boat.

post-8942-015182300 1312388307_thumb.jpg

Edited by Michigan boarder
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True, 1/2 the weight is on the threads, you're right.

On the lift ring, I meant for the front of the boat. Here's one on the front of my boat. Also, try this website Wiscolift. Send them the pic you posted, I'll bet they will have or design something for you that is perfect for the back of your boat.

I'd have to pass on something like that. Not only is it an eyesore but I wouldn't be comfortable lifting from something connected to the topdeck of the boat like that. Does that thing come off? What if you had to tow your boat somewhere does the front of the cover fit, etc...

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I'd have to pass on something like that. Not only is it an eyesore but I wouldn't be comfortable lifting from something connected to the topdeck of the boat like that. Does that thing come off? What if you had to tow your boat somewhere does the front of the cover fit, etc...

Yeah, I didn't install it, came with the boat. But I know it is specifically for lifting the bow, and in Jimmy's case would be a very easy and quick spot for a ring to clip on. I'm thinking quick and easy, and that means for the women to launch or put away the boat too. Like you say, seems like a bad spot to lift from, but it's designed just for that purpose. It actually is the first thing I reach for when catching the boat, or swinging it around, or tying a rope to for launching, etc.

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I think you should completely rebuild your rear spreader. Some day someone is going to let go of that thing and put a huge hole in your bu...

What if you made some sort of V. The lift would hook at the low center and the arms would be raised up. if it starts to swing it would never hit the boat. Then you could also use longer straps.

Not sure what you mean here. Also, I'm planning on using the rubber spray to rubberize the spreader soon. Right now we're just being very carful.

The V would be the way to go, but we don't have the vertical room to make it work. As it is we only have a few inches to spare. This system has worked for 30+ years with our old boat, we just need to retrofit it to work with the new one

How about a short length of chain and just use something to cover the chain? Like a noodle that all the kids use to swim with or beat each other depending on their mood :innocent: .

Definite Possibility. Were you referring that they beat each other with it when there's a chain in there? Wow you're kids wont make the same mistake twice :).

How wide are the straps now? They look to be wider than 1". You could do a 2 ply 1" strap and as you are using them in a basket configuration the load rating on them more than doubles. So a 2 ply 1" nylon rigging sling would be good for 6500# each using them in the basket configuration like you are.

Looking at the way you have the straps rigged up to the spreader bar would have to change though. You really can't have a rigging strap with a load on it around or on a sharp corner like that.

They are 2". I did just find this:

163.jpg

I figure I can use this to do a choker on the bottom and just loop it on the top. They say that their smallest is 4 feet of material so 2 feet doubled over. I'll have to measure but it might fit. This strap is .86" wide so it might work. This would be the best solution since there would be no extra metal to scratch the boat.

True, 1/2 the weight is on the threads, you're right.

On the lift ring, I meant for the front of the boat. Here's one on the front of my boat. Also, try this website Wiscolift. Send them the pic you posted, I'll bet they will have or design something for you that is perfect for the back of your boat.

I'd have to pass on something like that. Not only is it an eyesore but I wouldn't be comfortable lifting from something connected to the topdeck of the boat like that. Does that thing come off? What if you had to tow your boat somewhere does the front of the cover fit, etc...

I was also told that they cannot be retrofitted to the boats. They must be installed at the factory. I assume because they add support so the top deck doesn't pull off the bottom deck.

FYI, Here is the old setup at the Merced plant. I couldn't find a picture of the Tn. plants rig.

This helps a lot. The front spreader bar is something we were looking into already. We were planning on cutting down the old spreader bar from our old boat.

The back would be a problem because we don't have that much room. If you look at the first picture of the thread we couldn't actually get the boat in the boathouse because the straps were too long using a choker. Basically the picture from the back of the boat is the length it has to be. Any longer and the boat wont get high enough, any shorter that the spreader bar will hit the handle on the back of the boat.

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Jimmypooh those endless slings are nearly impossible to beat for strength vs size and weight.

I'm just hoping they will fit through the lifting eyes in the back enough to make a choker. Seems like they will. I will measure this weekend, but it's good to hear you like them. If the length is right, I will send out for 2 of them. Do you know if they are available anywhere locally like Home Depot. Then I can actually have one in my hands and see if it would work.

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I would forget about the straps and get some chain and use the same D-Rings that you're using now to attach the chain to the boat's D-Rings.

Straps don't scratch.

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I'm just hoping they will fit through the lifting eyes in the back enough to make a choker. Seems like they will. I will measure this weekend, but it's good to hear you like them. If the length is right, I will send out for 2 of them. Do you know if they are available anywhere locally like Home Depot. Then I can actually have one in my hands and see if it would work.

You should have some industrial rigging supply stores or even crane rental companies around you. I'd call them up and see what they have. I've never seen anything like that at Home Depot.

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Straps don't scratch.

Neither would a chain with some pipe insulation, or like was mentioned earlier, a noodle, around it.

Those straps you're looking at are great, we use them with our overhead cranes at work all the time. Really heavy load ratings and a pretty small and flexible strap. However, I just think you're going to be fooling around with the length on them, and draping them over that sharp edge on the spreader bar, rather than just cutting some chain to the right length, putting some pipe insulation over it, attach the D-Rings, and you're done.

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True, 1/2 the weight is on the threads, you're right.

On the lift ring, I meant for the front of the boat. Here's one on the front of my boat. Also, try this website Wiscolift. Send them the pic you posted, I'll bet they will have or design something for you that is perfect for the back of your boat.

I'd have to pass on something like that. Not only is it an eyesore but I wouldn't be comfortable lifting from something connected to the topdeck of the boat like that. Does that thing come off? What if you had to tow your boat somewhere does the front of the cover fit, etc...

That's a bow LIFTING eye and is not attached to top deck, it's anchored to hardware below the surface and is very substantial. It's a factory option. Correct Craft actually recommends using them for lifting their boats. It doesn't come off but doesn't affect cover. I always order my boats with them as we use them for attaching whips for mooring.

pooh, may want to call dealer and see if they have ever put one in "after the fact". My dealer did one for me, but it's a lot more involved than drilling holes and screwing it in.

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