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2006 RLXi power wedge problem


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Yet another power wedge problem. Found the blown 30A fuse under the dash, replaced it and tested. Wedge had very minimal movement. Disconnected both actuators and tested again, one worked fine and the other frozen. Messed around and had a bunch of water drain out of the bad actuator, which then started working again. When disconnected from the wedge the bad actuator will cycle through the full range of its operation. After reconnecting and testing the wedge will still not operate through its full range, so it appears that the bad actuator can't handle the load of the wedge, which doesn't seem to be all that much, I can easily move the wedge up and down by hand with the actuators disconnected. So it looks like I will be needing a new actuator.

Questions:

Is the Lenco part number 15060-001 as mentioned in an earlier post the correct unit for an '06RLXi? It claims to have been replaced by a 102XD-1,2,4, which of these is correct if any?

Can you open the end of an installed actuator to try and rebuild it or are they permanently sealed somehow?

Is there an easy way to get both actuators extended to the same length for connecting back up to the wedge?

thanks

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Yet another power wedge problem. Found the blown 30A fuse under the dash, replaced it and tested. Wedge had very minimal movement. Disconnected both actuators and tested again, one worked fine and the other frozen. Messed around and had a bunch of water drain out of the bad actuator, which then started working again. When disconnected from the wedge the bad actuator will cycle through the full range of its operation. After reconnecting and testing the wedge will still not operate through its full range, so it appears that the bad actuator can't handle the load of the wedge, which doesn't seem to be all that much, I can easily move the wedge up and down by hand with the actuators disconnected. So it looks like I will be needing a new actuator.

Questions:

Is the Lenco part number 15060-001 as mentioned in an earlier post the correct unit for an '06RLXi? It claims to have been replaced by a 102XD-1,2,4, which of these is correct if any?

Can you open the end of an installed actuator to try and rebuild it or are they permanently sealed somehow?

Is there an easy way to get both actuators extended to the same length for connecting back up to the wedge?

thanks

Ok so after calling Lenco I realized that I had misread their website, the p/n 15060-001 is the new replacement part, 102XD was the old part. So I've got one on order. Still wondering about the other two parts of my questions if anyone out there has any insights. I'm also wondering how sensitive the system is to misalignment of the 2 actuators, the lengths of mine were ever so slightly different, not enough off to prevent the bolts from being inserted of course, but the second one was a bit of a tight fit.

thanks in advance

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Ok so after calling Lenco I realized that I had misread their website, the p/n 15060-001 is the new replacement part, 102XD was the old part. So I've got one on order. Still wondering about the other two parts of my questions if anyone out there has any insights. I'm also wondering how sensitive the system is to misalignment of the 2 actuators, the lengths of mine were ever so slightly different, not enough off to prevent the bolts from being inserted of course, but the second one was a bit of a tight fit.

thanks in advance

Sorry I don't have any input for the length of the rams. Question to you. When the fuse was blown, did the wedge move up or down, or was it completely unfunctional?

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Sorry I don't have any input for the length of the rams. Question to you. When the fuse was blown, did the wedge move up or down, or was it completely unfunctional?

completely dead, as in no buzzing or clicking or anything

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other things I have learned in this process:

According to Lenco:

You should replace both actuators at the same time, the claim is that if one is frozen (as mine was) it will wreck the other one.

Having both actuators the exact same length is recommended. You can adjust each unit by turning the ram in 1/2 revolution increments.

The actuators are a factory sealed unit, they claim you can't open them up to repair them, but I thought i saw one post here that contradicted that.

On the '06 RLXi the wiring for actuators is accessed by pulling out the back of the rear storage locker. The actuators are connected to the boat wiring using some 10-12 Gauge crimp connectors.

The attached wire on the new actuator is slightly larger in diameter than the old wire and will not fit through the compression nut fitting without modification. I had to drill out the fiberglass as well as the plastic of the compression fitting. I plan to coat it thoroughly with some sort of marine silicone to make sure its water tight. Be careful when drilling the hull as you are right next to the gas tank on the '06RLXi.

The new actuators size at the ram end is somewhat smaller than the old unit, they provided some plastic like spacers, but they are too big. I'm going to see how it works once they've both been replaced to see if it is an issue or not. With the wedge in the up position it rattles around a bit.

You will need a couple of new stainless steel cotter pins.

Also someone in an earlier post recommended getting these through CutRateBazaar.com, and based upon this single experience I agree. $199 ea, even with the shipping way cheaper than the dealer. I got mine in 1.5 days after paying for UPS 2-day. While I believe in supporting a local dealer 75% markup seems a bit much.

more to follow as I finish the repair and test in the water.

P

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So the story seems to have a happy ending. Water tested the newly replaced actuators and all seems well. The last piece of advice I was given by the Lenco support person was to try and cycle the actuators a few times during the winter if possible to lubricate the internal seals. Now I just need to figure out why my horn isn't working...

P

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