shaft leaking how to tighten?

[malibu.c.c]

noticed abit of water in boat, shaft was dripping about 1 drop every 10 seconds now it dripping 1 every second ,can i just tighten that large nut??

what size wrench do i need and easy to tighten?

any help appreciated ,

boat is 2008 vlx friends boat trying to help him fix it

thks

[davemac]

I just had the same issue w/ mine. A "search" will get some good info. There are two threads about this that have been going on the last couple weeks.

You need two wrenches both 1-7/8". You need to back off the locking nut, then tighten packing nut (by hand...not too tight). Only if necessary, a little PB Blaster on the locking nut only might speed the process.

You can buy wrenches specific for this for about $30/each. Else buy less expensive "spanner" wrench from home depot in plumbing section. I'm not sure how accessible things are to you on the VDrive, but others should be able to chime in on whether there is room for the spanner wrench.

Edited June 10, 2011 by davemac

[skiguy]

I would avoid using any kind of penetrating oil as I've read it's destructive to rubber seals and that packing nut is usually very close to the transmission and the shaft seal. In any event, you shouldn't need it anyway as the locking nut isn't usually on THAT tight that a good long wrench can't handle. It's a simple job, just make sure to adjust while the prop is turning (idle forward is fine). Do lock the locking nut in good and tight. If it breaks loose your boat may sink before you figure out the packing nut came off!

[Ndawg12]

I would avoid using any kind of penetrating oil as I've read it's destructive to rubber seals and that packing nut is usually very close to the transmission and the shaft seal. In any event, you shouldn't need it anyway as the locking nut isn't usually on THAT tight that a good long wrench can't handle. It's a simple job, just make sure to adjust while the prop is turning (idle forward is fine). Do lock the locking nut in good and tight. If it breaks loose your boat may sink before you figure out the packing nut came off!

I agree, alot of people on here shoot PB Blaster on everything, that stuff eats rust like it's nothing, I can only imagine what it can do to rubber if left over a period of time.

However, he has a vdrive, nothing is easy!! You've got cooling hoses and ballast pumps/hoses in the way down there. I got lucky and found a double open ended 1 7/8" wrench at Northern Tool. I cut it into 2 wrenches so that the handles were only about 3-4" long. You should just barely need to move them to crack them apart. Firmly tighten the big nut by hand and spin the locking nut back to it, snug up with wrenches trying not to move the big nut.

Edited June 10, 2011 by Ndawg12

[davemac]

to clarify...I used the PB Blaster out of necessity (modified my OP). I must have grown weaker since I last tightened the locking nut, as I couldn't budge it (w/ two of those dedicated, blue wrenches). Yes, if to resort to PB, make sure it doesn't contact seals.

I'm still waiting for my pick set from Harbor Freight (who I guess now uses a bicycle courier service for shipping)... so I can replace packing w/ the goretex stuff I got from skidim.

Edited June 10, 2011 by davemac

[Indyxc]

to clarify...I used the PB Blaster out of necessity (modified my OP). I must have grown weaker since I last tightened the locking nut, as I couldn't budge it (w/ two of those dedicated, blue wrenches). Yes, if to resort to PB, make sure it doesn't contact seals.

I'm still waiting for my pick set from Harbor Freight (who I guess now uses a bicycle courier service for shipping)... so I can replace packing w/ the goretex stuff I got from skidim.

You can buy two of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-inch-jumbo-adjustable-wrench-39619.html

I haven't done mine yet, but will with those.

[TalleyHo]

I had to pull the water hose and the ballast pump. I tried spanner wrenches, and I couldn't get them to hold on. I had to bend over and get the $30 skidim wrench. I put a pipe wrench on the packing nut, and broke the lock nut loose in about 30 seconds. Sucks to have dropped $30 on the wrench, but it did do the job. The crescent from HF tho would probably be a good option - our local stored didn't have any that big.

Now that I've got the gortex packing and my pick set, I'll be re-packing my shaft soon.

[TallRedRider]

Finally got my head under the back seat to see if my prop shaft seal was leaking. I get a lot of water in the bilge. The bilge pump comes on about every 10 minutes while wakeboarding. I think that anyone who has not looked at a standard prop shaft seal might appreciate seeing a video of what too much water coming from it looks like. This video was taken at idle speed. Sorry the quality is not the best, but here it is. Leaky prop shaft seal

I have 2 questions:

1. Can I tighten that at home and have any idea if I have done it too tight or not enough? Once I hit the lake, I am so stoked to get going that working on the boat in the water just seems really icky.

2. How do I know if the nut needs repacking? I bet it does, because it is probably the original packing and this is a 2006 boat. But wondered if there is a way to tell? Maybe if I just tighten it more and it continues to leak? I just bought it in the spring.

Edited September 17, 2011 by TallRedRider

[Ndawg12]

Finally got my head under the back seat to see if my prop shaft seal was leaking. I get a lot of water in the bilge. The bilge pump comes on about every 10 minutes while wakeboarding. I think that anyone who has not looked at a standard prop shaft seal might appreciate seeing a video of what too much water coming from it looks like. This video was taken at idle speed. Sorry the quality is not the best, but here it is. Leaky prop shaft seal

I have 2 questions:

1. Can I tighten that at home and have any idea if I have done it too tight or not enough? Once I hit the lake, I am so stoked to get going that working on the boat in the water just seems really icky.

2. How do I know if the nut needs repacking? I bet it does, because it is probably the original packing and this is a 2006 boat. But wondered if there is a way to tell? Maybe if I just tighten it more and it continues to leak? I just bought it in the spring.

I did mine like an oil filter, hand tighten + 1/4 turn, maybe I got lucky but it worked for me.

If the packing nut (big nut) is bottomed out and it's still excessively leaking.

[shawndoggy]

Finally got my head under the back seat to see if my prop shaft seal was leaking. I get a lot of water in the bilge. The bilge pump comes on about every 10 minutes while wakeboarding. I think that anyone who has not looked at a standard prop shaft seal might appreciate seeing a video of what too much water coming from it looks like. This video was taken at idle speed. Sorry the quality is not the best, but here it is. Leaky prop shaft seal

I have 2 questions:

1. Can I tighten that at home and have any idea if I have done it too tight or not enough? Once I hit the lake, I am so stoked to get going that working on the boat in the water just seems really icky.

2. How do I know if the nut needs repacking? I bet it does, because it is probably the original packing and this is a 2006 boat. But wondered if there is a way to tell? Maybe if I just tighten it more and it continues to leak? I just bought it in the spring.

tight enough = cool to the touch, 10 drips a minute. I did mine in the driveway, then looked at it on the water and stuck my head down there to retighten anyway. The upside of doing it in the driveway is getting a feel for when it starts to tighten up.

With the wrenches from bakes it's a 5 minute job.

My 06 was leaky too, though not as bad as yours. once I tightened it up it was way way better. I was more paranoid about overheating the shaft, so mine was still a little loose, but even then cut down water in the bilge substantially. I would certainly try tightening before repacking.

[shawndoggy]

BTW my new boat is dripless so I don't need my two $30 apiece bakes wrenches anymore. $40 shipped in the lower 48 for anyone who wants 'em.

[TallRedRider]

BTW my new boat is dripless so I don't need my two $30 apiece bakes wrenches anymore. $40 shipped in the lower 48 for anyone who wants 'em.

Thanks for the suggestions. Did it in the driveway this morning, but with longer tools, I had to do what someone said above and move the cooler hose and a ballast pump. It was able to be tightened by hand about 1/8 of a turn. I then took Dawg's advice and tightened it another 1/4 turn or so.

Now I just have to get to the lake and test it out.

I also should have mentioned that mine was leaking at rest. It was a steady small stream, barely more than fast drips, if that makes any sense.

Alright, Shawndog, I know how much you saved on that MB...you can let them go for cheaper than that PM sent.

[TallRedRider]

So I got back on the water yesterday after my tightening adventure.

The shaft seal did not leak at all at rest or at idle speed. It was slightly warm to touch. I then took her up to 20 MPH and ran it briefly. The PSS got hot to touch. Not so hot that I could not touch it, but nonetheless it was hot. And it was dripping about every 5 seconds. I felt that was too warm, and I always thought I should have a drip at idle speed. So I loosened it up a slight bit, and then it was a steady drip every second or two at idle, and it was dripping as fast as you can drip without becoming a stream when going 20 MPH. Now it drips again at rest. It was cool to touch after the adjustment.

The questions are should I adjust it based on the warmth, the drips, at idle or at speed?

[85 Barefoot]

So I got back on the water yesterday after my tightening adventure.

The shaft seal did not leak at all at rest or at idle speed. It was slightly warm to touch. I then took her up to 20 MPH and ran it briefly. The PSS got hot to touch. Not so hot that I could not touch it, but nonetheless it was hot. And it was dripping about every 5 seconds. I felt that was too warm, and I always thought I should have a drip at idle speed. So I loosened it up a slight bit, and then it was a steady drip every second or two at idle, and it was dripping as fast as you can drip without becoming a stream when going 20 MPH. Now it drips again at rest. It was cool to touch after the adjustment.

The questions are should I adjust it based on the warmth, the drips, at idle or at speed?

My opinion drips at idle. Everyone's definition of warm and hot are different but if it felt uncomfortably warm, just get new packing..it's so cheap.

[TallRedRider]

My opinion drips at idle. Everyone's definition of warm and hot are different but if it felt uncomfortably warm, just get new packing..it's so cheap.

The expensive part is me laying on my chest trying to reach in there winding the packing

[Bill_AirJunky]

So I got back on the water yesterday after my tightening adventure.

The shaft seal did not leak at all at rest or at idle speed. It was slightly warm to touch. I then took her up to 20 MPH and ran it briefly. The PSS got hot to touch. Not so hot that I could not touch it, but nonetheless it was hot. And it was dripping about every 5 seconds. I felt that was too warm, and I always thought I should have a drip at idle speed. So I loosened it up a slight bit, and then it was a steady drip every second or two at idle, and it was dripping as fast as you can drip without becoming a stream when going 20 MPH. Now it drips again at rest. It was cool to touch after the adjustment.

The questions are should I adjust it based on the warmth, the drips, at idle or at speed?

Bummer. I feel for ya. I'm 1/2 your size & found it tough to get in there to do the job.

Sounds like it's leaking too much, and getting too hot. I can literally grab the prop shaft & it's cool to the touch..... like in no heat. Maybe 80 or 90 degrees, whatever the ambient temp is.

Trying to remember when the last time my auto-bilge came on was. I'm pretty sure it was months ago.... literally. The boat lives on the lake for weeks at a time. I've looked at the prop shaft a few times this summer & never seen even one drip. The Skidim.com "virtually dripless" packing is exactly that..... virtually dripless. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO1/4X24

I almost wish I needed Shawn's wrenches...... naaa, I don't really.

BTW, when you install the new packing you cut it into 3 pieces. Wrap one time around the shaft, cut to length with a good clean razor blade. Then you install the 3 pieces inside the nut, staggering the cuts around the shaft. I had to install 2 pieces, tight the packing nut to compress them in there, then loosen it again to get the 3rd piece of packing in there.

When I put the boat in the water, we did it with the packing nut loose, let it leak pretty good for a bit. Then tightened it up till it leaked at the right rate. I don't think it's leaked at all since that day. And the shaft is not hot in the least.

Edited September 22, 2011 by Bill_AirJunky

[TallRedRider]

Bummer. I feel for ya. I'm 1/2 your size & found it tough to get in there to do the job.

Sounds like it's leaking too much, and getting too hot. I can literally grab the prop shaft & it's cool to the touch..... like in no heat. Maybe 80 or 90 degrees, whatever the ambient temp is.

Trying to remember when the last time my auto-bilge came on was. I'm pretty sure it was months ago.... literally. The boat lives on the lake for weeks at a time. I've looked at the prop shaft a few times this summer & never seen even one drip. The Skidim.com "virtually dripless" packing is exactly that..... virtually dripless. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO1/4X24

I almost wish I needed Shawn's wrenches...... naaa, I don't really.

BTW, when you install the new packing you cut it into 3 pieces. Wrap one time around the shaft, cut to length with a good clean razor blade. Then you install the 3 pieces inside the nut, staggering the cuts around the shaft. I had to install 2 pieces, tight the packing nut to compress them in there, then loosen it again to get the 3rd piece of packing in there.

When I put the boat in the water, we did it with the packing nut loose, let it leak pretty good for a bit. Then tightened it up till it leaked at the right rate. I don't think it's leaked at all since that day. And the shaft is not hot in the least.

Was at Lake Mead for 2 days, and not sure if the bilge pump came on at all. I did get some water in there, but nothing like I was getting before. I tried to tighten it a bit more as that I am now having a drip per second at rest with no engine running. As I tightend it, the entire assembly rotated around. I guess that means that I reached the limit of how tight it should be. I will be visiting the folks at skidim to get some new packing. Thanks for the heads up, Bill.

And Shawndoggy's wrenches made the job infinitely easier.

Edited September 25, 2011 by TallRedRider

[shawndoggy]

And Shawndoggy's wrenches made the job infinitely easier.

Yeah totally worth it, eh?

[GrahamM]

Ok, I've read the thread, looked at other threads... and I still can't do this... I got the 2 smaller 1 7/8" wrenches from Bakes and tried loosening the packing nut... and I coudln't put enough torque on it to undo it! When looking towards the aft of the boat do I spin the locking nut clockwise and hold the big nut counter clockwise??? I coudln't get it undone!

My boat leaks with a constant stream, but I've just been letting the bilge run all the time as I figured I would just get the dripless packing in the winter... but then I looked at the price. Please help me with any ideas on how to undo that nut, especially if I can't use PB blaster.

Thanks,

Graham

[TallRedRider]

Ok, I've read the thread, looked at other threads... and I still can't do this... I got the 2 smaller 1 7/8" wrenches from Bakes and tried loosening the packing nut... and I coudln't put enough torque on it to undo it! When looking towards the aft of the boat do I spin the locking nut clockwise and hold the big nut counter clockwise??? I coudln't get it undone!

My boat leaks with a constant stream, but I've just been letting the bilge run all the time as I figured I would just get the dripless packing in the winter... but then I looked at the price. Please help me with any ideas on how to undo that nut, especially if I can't use PB blaster.

Thanks,

Graham

The greatest tutorial ever...and also with instructions on how to replace the stuffing. Looks like I need to replace mine. I retightened and now cannot get it to stop leaking completely. There is a nice description of which way to turn your nuts.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

[Bill_AirJunky]

My boat leaks with a constant stream, but I've just been letting the bilge run all the time as I figured I would just get the dripless packing in the winter... but then I looked at the price. Please help me with any ideas on how to undo that nut, especially if I can't use PB blaster.

Thanks,

Graham

Don't waste your money on the real dripless packing. Call Skidim.com & order their "virtually dripless" packing for 1/8th of the cost.

As for which way to turn.... righty tighty, lefy loosey.

[85 Barefoot]

Ok, I've read the thread, looked at other threads... and I still can't do this... I got the 2 smaller 1 7/8" wrenches from Bakes and tried loosening the packing nut... and I coudln't put enough torque on it to undo it! When looking towards the aft of the boat do I spin the locking nut clockwise and hold the big nut counter clockwise??? I coudln't get it undone!

My boat leaks with a constant stream, but I've just been letting the bilge run all the time as I figured I would just get the dripless packing in the winter... but then I looked at the price. Please help me with any ideas on how to undo that nut, especially if I can't use PB blaster.

Thanks,

Graham

What is it, 15 bucks?

You must be looking at a dripless shaft seal which is totally different.

right-tighty lefty-loosy....I don't understand what you're describing but the one screws into the other therefore go opposite directions.

[GrahamM]

The greatest tutorial ever...and also with instructions on how to replace the stuffing. Looks like I need to replace mine. I retightened and now cannot get it to stop leaking completely. There is a nice description of which way to turn your nuts.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for.

As to those who told me righty tighty left loosey... big help you are, especially when the locking nut has to be tightened in order to undo these.

[GrahamM]

Don't waste your money on the real dripless packing. Call Skidim.com & order their "virtually dripless" packing for 1/8th of the cost.

As for which way to turn.... righty tighty, lefy loosey.

I'll definitely try out the virtually dripless packing... much better.. I was looking at the other product.

THanks,

Graham

[TallRedRider]

Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for.

As to those who told me righty tighty left loosey... big help you are, especially when the locking nut has to be tightened in order to undo these.

Glad that helped.

The locking nut has to go righty tighty, then you can move the packing nut. Sometimes I have heard of them being stuck pretty good, but mine were not bad at all. I ordered the nearly dripless stuff today for $15. Thanks to that tutorial, I think this is something I can actually do, but would not have dared to do it before.