Replacing bunk on trailer

[GrahamM]

Hey There,

So I'm not sure how one of the bunks on my trailer is broken... and therefore I'm going to replace it. It's just a 2x4 with carpet stapled on and then bolted to the trailer... However, is there a specific type of lumber I should be using for the 2x4? Should it be treated?

Thanks!

Graham

[Ndawg12]

Are you sure it's 2x4 rather than 2x6? I'm going on 4 years of regular treated 2x6's from Lowe's without a prob.

[GrahamM]

Are you sure it's 2x4 rather than 2x6? I'm going on 4 years of regular treated 2x6's from Lowe's without a prob.

Nope, I didn't measure it yet... just looked like a 2x4... I'll make sure I get the right size when I do pull it out... but sounds good, I'll just get a regular treated 2x? depending on what it is.

Thanks!

Graham

[wakbord11]

I have done this a few times over the years. It most likely is a 2"x6". I woud get a new one fabricated up ready to go. Then take it with me to the lake and just change it out real quick at the boat ramp parking lot before I loaded the boat back up. Really easy with an empty trailor

[WakingMeHappy]

If a 2x6 fits I would use that verses a 2x4. You can buy marine grade bunks but treated lumber from Home Depot will do just fine. Just make sure the bolts don’t stick up through the wood. May sound like “obvious” advice but crazy mistakes happen.

[Slayer]

Since I now have the boat on the lift finally, I'm going to be replacing all my trailer bunks. The bolts are literally falling out of the bunks due to wood rot and the fact that they're 14 years old. As soon as I move the trailer into the new garage, I'm going to pull the bunks off, clean it, wax it, order new bunk carpet, and replace the bunks. I plan on doing just as has been mentioned here with treated 2x6 from Home Depot or Lowes.

What about the bolts though? I plan on replacing them as well and it looks like they are the type of bolt that was inserted into a pre-drilled hole. Anyone have any recommendations on that?

[Michigan boarder]

Since I now have the boat on the lift finally, I'm going to be replacing all my trailer bunks. The bolts are literally falling out of the bunks due to wood rot and the fact that they're 14 years old. As soon as I move the trailer into the new garage, I'm going to pull the bunks off, clean it, wax it, order new bunk carpet, and replace the bunks. I plan on doing just as has been mentioned here with treated 2x6 from Home Depot or Lowes.

What about the bolts though? I plan on replacing them as well and it looks like they are the type of bolt that was inserted into a pre-drilled hole. Anyone have any recommendations on that?

In summer of 2009 I took my bunks and stripped the carpet (2 layers), then flipped and inverted the wood, so that the holes were on top and not alighed with the brackets and I had a fresh surface to bite into. I then carpeted them using left over low nap carpet from an office I had remodeled. I used stainless steel staples to hold the carpet wrapped to the bunks. I used galvanized lag screws to hold them to the trailer brackets. While I was at it I wire wheeled any rust off the trailer and repainted it. Like a new trailer now.

Edit: to answer the question, if you want to do bolts, predrill and countersink and use a galvanized carriage bolt, then carpet over that. In 10 years you will probably have to cut them with a recipro saw or break apart the wood to replace the bunks again, but it will hold better than lag screws. I already had a box of lag screws in the garage so I had no reason to hit the hardware store, and the first set lasted 15 years, so WTH.

Edited June 10, 2011 by Michigan boarder

[tvano]

i went with thru bolts.

picture what the bottom of your boat looks like if too many of those lag bolts rattle out.

if it's for marine use then bolt it up unless you just can't get at the backing to install a nut.

[EchelonMike]

Since I now have the boat on the lift finally, I'm going to be replacing all my trailer bunks. The bolts are literally falling out of the bunks due to wood rot and the fact that they're 14 years old. As soon as I move the trailer into the new garage, I'm going to pull the bunks off, clean it, wax it, order new bunk carpet, and replace the bunks. I plan on doing just as has been mentioned here with treated 2x6 from Home Depot or Lowes.

What about the bolts though? I plan on replacing them as well and it looks like they are the type of bolt that was inserted into a pre-drilled hole. Anyone have any recommendations on that?

I would not use thru bolts unless counter sunk deeply. the stock lag bolts work fine. i took my old ones to lowes and got galvanized dipped ones that matched the originals. i used pressure treated and recycled the bunk carpeting from the old board.

[Slayer]

I would not use thru bolts unless counter sunk deeply. the stock lag bolts work fine. i took my old ones to lowes and got galvanized dipped ones that matched the originals. i used pressure treated and recycled the bunk carpeting from the old board.

Thanks, guys for the words. I'm not yet sure what I'm going to do in terms of fasteners. This boat is likely not going to get much time on the trailer but I still want to do it right.

Edited June 11, 2011 by inlandlaker

[dalt1]

My stock lag bolts were falling out of my bunks in 3 years. 1 bunk actually fell off while loading the boat. Lucky to stop in time and not damage hull. My bunks are now through bolted with galvanized carriage bolts and I no longer worry about them falling off.

[Slayer]

I have been thinking about the thru bolt solution quite a bit. As said before, you would have to counter sink the hell out of them to keep the hull protected.

For those of you who used the thru bolt solution, did you put anything between the bolt head and the bunk carpet or did you just have them countersunk below the adjacent surface elevation?

[tuslake]

I have been thinking about the thru bolt solution quite a bit. As said before, you would have to counter sink the hell out of them to keep the hull protected.

For those of you who used the thru bolt solution, did you put anything between the bolt head and the bunk carpet or did you just have them countersunk below the adjacent surface elevation?

Resess the bolt ,1/8 " then fill with clear silcone let harden then carpet .works great!

[Slayer]

Resess the bolt ,1/8 " then fill with clear silcone let harden then carpet .works great!

Thanks, tuslake!

That sounds like a hell of a plan. Once I get my crap together in the next 2-3 weeks, I think I'll do as you suggest.