Boat Lift Measurements Question

[tdogcarter]

I just bought a new boat lift from Lakeside boat lifts and have not installed the bunk yet but at the highest setting it would put them 20” above the cross bar. With the lift now in the water it sits at 8" at the lowest clearance point and we are in 3 feet deep water which would put the bunks at approx 28” in the water. I don't think that I will be able to float the boat on the lift if the bunks are only 8" below the water surface at the lowest setting.

Does anyone know what you can set the lift bunks at from the lowest cross bar? 20" is the max adjustment and 4" is the lowest.

I measured on the trailer approx 16” below would clear the prop but I want to see what everyone else has theres set at and if the prop even makes it past the back of the lift?

Can anyone give me any advice on where we can set it and what the depth of water they are in?

Thanks,

Trey

[Indyxc]

Great purchase on the lift. I bought a lakeside lift, and it has been great so far.

For your question on how far to set the bunks above the cross bar, I set mine kind of high at about 12 inches from the bottom of the bunk to the crossbar, because I was worried that my tracking fins and prop wouldn't clear. I estimated that was about how much clearance was on the trailer. Here is a picture:

In reality, the tracking fins never get to the front of the cross bar, and the at the rear the prop stays well below the the rear crossbar. See the second picture. My lift is in deep water, about 5.5 feet in the rear ( I had to get rear leg extensions), and about 3.5 feet in the front, and my bunks are about 12 inches below the water when the lift is all the way down. It's plenty to get the boat on the lift.

For your setup, I'd imagine the sunsetter drafts about 20 inches. Measure on your trailer how far forward the tracking fins will be, and if that puts it anywhere near the front cross bar. Do the same for the prop. I'd say both will be in back of their respective cross bar. So,I would just put the bunks at about 10 inches about the cross bar, which should be plenty anyway. When the lift is down the fins will easily clear the crossbar.

Adjust the legs first too so the lift is level, especially side to side. It will naturally settle depending on your ground. Here is my setup pre-vinyl placement.

I just bought a new boat lift from Lakeside boat lifts and have not installed the bunk yet but at the highest setting it would put them 20" above the cross bar. With the lift now in the water it sits at 8" at the lowest clearance point and we are in 3 feet deep water which would put the bunks at approx 28" in the water. I don't think that I will be able to float the boat on the lift if the bunks are only 8" below the water surface at the lowest setting.

Does anyone know what you can set the lift bunks at from the lowest cross bar? 20" is the max adjustment and 4" is the lowest.

I measured on the trailer approx 16" below would clear the prop but I want to see what everyone else has theres set at and if the prop even makes it past the back of the lift?

Can anyone give me any advice on where we can set it and what the depth of water they are in?

Thanks,

Trey

Edited June 8, 2011 by Indyxc

[Indyxc]

What lake are you on? Tell Dave, I help you with tips on your lift. I'm saving some points with him for some guide on bunks

Second picture:

Edited June 8, 2011 by Indyxc

[tdogcarter]

Thanks for the reply, I also purchased the canopy but will put that on after everything else is set and ready to go.

How long is your canopy? I got the 24' long one.

We are going to move the lift out about 20 feet and then it will be in 4 foot of water as the lake levels can adjust throughout the year as much as 1 foot.

The boat is in Wisconsin on Lake Jordan near WI dells.

The lift was purchased from Dave at lakeside.

How long did it take to build the canopy?

[l98ycar]

I used 2x12's standing on end (so probably 11 5/8 inches) for my bunks on my flat frame Shore Station, I did not think that the fins would clear with a 2X10 - the height difference between the area on the hull where the bunk rests and the bottom of the front fin is ~10". At least on my hoist I wanted the fins to clear the cross beam sitting on the bunks because the frame/bunks are neutrally boyant and do not sink so there are times the boat needs to push the bunks down when driving on. My prop will not clear the rear beam but, I stop ~12in before it would hit.

[Indyxc]

Thanks for the reply, I also purchased the canopy but will put that on after everything else is set and ready to go.

How long is your canopy? I got the 24' long one.

We are going to move the lift out about 20 feet and then it will be in 4 foot of water as the lake levels can adjust throughout the year as much as 1 foot.

The boat is in Wisconsin on Lake Jordan near WI dells.

The lift was purchased from Dave at lakeside.

How long did it take to build the canopy?

Yup, mine is the 24 foot canopy as well. I ordered 21 foot, but got the 24 foot accidentally. The canopy is really easy to assemble. Maybe 30 mins max for assembly on shore, and then 20 mines to bolt onto the lift.

[david_t_hill]

Yup, mine is the 24 foot canopy as well. I ordered 21 foot, but got the 24 foot accidentally. The canopy is really easy to assemble. Maybe 30 mins max for assembly on shore, and then 20 mines to bolt onto the lift.

Sorry if I hijack this thread. I am resurrecting a hoist right now for my newly purchased 97 sunsetter. Im pretty anti-hoist, but the bottom of this thing is too clean... The hiolst i have has the old pads on it. I have created pillow blocks to lift the pads up high enough to clear the fins. Do you guys see any issue with not using bunks? I cant imagine much of the load is distributed. What are your thoughts/experiences?

[Slayer]

Sorry if I hijack this thread. I am resurrecting a hoist right now for my newly purchased 97 sunsetter. Im pretty anti-hoist, but the bottom of this thing is too clean... The hiolst i have has the old pads on it. I have created pillow blocks to lift the pads up high enough to clear the fins. Do you guys see any issue with not using bunks? I cant imagine much of the load is distributed. What are your thoughts/experiences?

If it was me, I would go bunks. JMHO.

[tdogcarter]

Sorry if I hijack this thread. I am resurrecting a hoist right now for my newly purchased 97 sunsetter. Im pretty anti-hoist, but the bottom of this thing is too clean... The hiolst i have has the old pads on it. I have created pillow blocks to lift the pads up high enough to clear the fins. Do you guys see any issue with not using bunks? I cant imagine much of the load is distributed. What are your thoughts/experiences?

I would also suggest bunks as the V pads just do not seem to keep the lower sloped hulls in place. They work great for V bottom Aluminum fishing boats, but on fiberglass bottom boats that are flat in the back i would suggest 12' bunks covered in carpet.

[l98ycar]

I used 2x12's for my bunks (mounted vertically) so they are 11 5/8 - when I did the measurements it seemed like a 2x10 would work but with less than .5 in clearance on the fins so I decided to go up. This is on a 2000 23 LSV.

[david_t_hill]

I used 2x12's for my bunks (mounted vertically) so they are 11 5/8 - when I did the measurements it seemed like a 2x10 would work but with less than .5 in clearance on the fins so I decided to go up. This is on a 2000 23 LSV.

Nice. How did you attach them to the crossmembers?

[l98ycar]

Nice. How did you attach them to the crossmembers?

I made 4" aluminum angle brackets - I have pictures posted in this post

[david_t_hill]

Just as an fyi to the crew. I got an email back from malibu last night. Apparently there is no problem using the old chock style. Bunks are not necessary. Too bad I didnt get that before I cut all my chock mounts to accept bunks....

[tdogcarter]

That seems to be alot of weight on a small area if the boat was on the chocks. Even if malibu states that it can be done, I would feel much better with 12 foot long carpeted bunks to spread the load out on the lift.

[Guitarcarr]

Just the topic i'm looking for!

Ok, I have the same situation going on:

We will be picking the boat up this weekend.

We just bought a 23' 2000 Malibu Escape Vdrive.

We have a Hewitt HL3800 lift with a 21 foot canopy.

The Lift is already setup with 12' 2x6 carpeted rails.

We never really hoisted our 18 1/2' Searay totally out of the water. We mainly left the stern end in the water about a foot or so. Essentially 3/4 of the boat was above water.

Will this lift work?

What about the prop n rudder?

Will I have to adjust the hieght of the rails?

Does anyone know the clearance needed to slide the boat in?

The Escape weights 3400 the lift is good for 3800.

Regards,

Guitar Carr

Edited June 28, 2011 by Guitarcarr

[Slayer]

The lift should work. You likely need not worry about the prop, shaft, and rudder as they will be behind the lift cradle. Your tracking fins need to clear the cradle and I"m not sure how large the fins are on your boat. I would also be sure that the bunks are set up to ride on the stringers of your boat.

......And........get a bigger canopy

good luck.

[tdogcarter]

Just the topic i'm looking for!

Ok, I have the same situation going on:

We will be picking the boat up this weekend.

We just bought a 23' 2000 Malibu Escape Vdrive.

We have a Hewitt HL3800 lift with a 21 foot canopy.

The Lift is already setup with 12' 2x6 carpeted rails.

We never really hoisted our 18 1/2' Searay totally out of the water. We mainly left the stern end in the water about a foot or so. Essentially 3/4 of the boat was above water.

Will this lift work?

What about the prop n rudder?

Will I have to adjust the hieght of the rails?

Does anyone know the clearance needed to slide the boat in?

The Escape weights 3400 the lift is good for 3800.

Regards,

Guitar Carr

As long as the lift is in good shape meaning the cables can still handle 3800 lbs then it should be able to support the boat but you are going to be very close to 3800 with gas and gear. The 2 x 6 's will need to be set at a minimum of 12" above the bar if your tracking fins are the same size as the SLXI. Set up the bunks so they are at least 12" above the beam and walk the boat on for the first time. Lift it up and check to make sure you have proper clearance on the tracking fins and adjust as neccessary. Your prop and rudder should never go beyond the rear beam unless you pull too far forward and again as long as the lift is all the way down and under the water you should not have any problems. The canopy will be really short you need a 26 footer to just clear the boat and swim platform and a 28 footer to give some clearance. If you have a tower then you will need to make sure you have 6 foot arms then it will clear without any problem. My lift came with 4 foot tower legs and it is about a foot to short.

When I launch my boat the carpeted bunks are approx 20 inches below the water line and I need it 12 inches below in order to float the boat on the lift. Right now I have an 8 inch gap that the water can drop and I can still float the boat off the lift.

Project for the weekend is extend the canopy legs to clear my tower and then start making the guide bunks.

[Guitarcarr]

As long as the lift is in good shape meaning the cables can still handle 3800 lbs then it should be able to support the boat but you are going to be very close to 3800 with gas and gear. The 2 x 6 's will need to be set at a minimum of 12" above the bar if your tracking fins are the same size as the SLXI. Set up the bunks so they are at least 12" above the beam and walk the boat on for the first time. Lift it up and check to make sure you have proper clearance on the tracking fins and adjust as neccessary. Your prop and rudder should never go beyond the rear beam unless you pull too far forward and again as long as the lift is all the way down and under the water you should not have any problems. The canopy will be really short you need a 26 footer to just clear the boat and swim platform and a 28 footer to give some clearance. If you have a tower then you will need to make sure you have 6 foot arms then it will clear without any problem. My lift came with 4 foot tower legs and it is about a foot to short.

When I launch my boat the carpeted bunks are approx 20 inches below the water line and I need it 12 inches below in order to float the boat on the lift. Right now I have an 8 inch gap that the water can drop and I can still float the boat off the lift.

Project for the weekend is extend the canopy legs to clear my tower and then start making the guide bunks.

Ok the 2x6's are at least 12' above the bar. We are getting the boat on friday and i will be very careful when testing it getting it on the lift. I think I wll be okay. Tha lake is very high( lake hopatcong NJ) right now so there is plenty of water hieght. When all they way down I have a good 3' of water covering the bunks.

Thanks a million for all the replies!

Regards,

Guitarcarr

***Will post some pics of the boat next week!

[l98ycar]

You will need to adjust your bunks so that they sit just inside the chines (which are right under the stringers) - about 19 inches each side of center if I remember right and you could probably get by with a little less than 12 inches if required (I think around 10.5" is about the minimum for a 2000-2003 23 LSV to clear the fins). You will also need to be careful about how you stop the boat on the hoist - on your I/O, I am guessing you had a stop for the outdrive (that is how my hoist was set up), with your new boat, the first thing to hit the hoist will likely be the prop if you pull on too far. I have not figured out a good stop yet so I stop the boat early and walk it on until my mid-ship cleat lines up with the front vertical post on the hoist.

[Slayer]

You will need to adjust your bunks so that they sit just inside the chines (which are right under the stringers) - about 19 inches each side of center if I remember right and you could probably get by with a little less than 12 inches if required (I think around 10.5" is about the minimum for a 2000-2003 23 LSV to clear the fins). You will also need to be careful about how you stop the boat on the hoist - on your I/O, I am guessing you had a stop for the outdrive (that is how my hoist was set up), with your new boat, the first thing to hit the hoist will likely be the prop if you pull on too far. I have not figured out a good stop yet so I stop the boat early and walk it on until my mid-ship cleat lines up with the front vertical post on the hoist.

For determining how far to pull the boat up on the hoist the first few times, I put a piece of blue painters tape on the deck above the rub rail that is in line with the location where the shaft penetrates the hull. I also kept the lift slightly high in the water to give me just a bit of resistance so I could better control boat position on the bunks. I have since removed the tape and all has been well.

[Guitarcarr]

Ok guys, the boat fit perectly on the lift!!!!! It looks like the previous owners had a boat that was similiar in size. The canopy covers all of the boat except for the last foot or so of the stern which is no big deal because we put the boat cover on it when not in use. Very happy with the setup!

Thanx for all the replies!

Regards,

Guitarcarr

Edited July 6, 2011 by Guitarcarr

[tdogcarter]

Anybody have a power lift? After cranking up the lift 12 times in the last 4 days my shoulder is sore. If you do what one do you have? Lift Tech is one I saw that I was considering.

[tdogcarter]

Lift is finally all finished, leveled the canopy installed and longer legs installed (std 4 footers too short for tower)

Only thing left is installing some lights under the canopy to aid in night time cruises.

Electric lift motor will be soon too as this cranking thing is not fun anymore.

[Sixball]

Anybody have a power lift? After cranking up the lift 12 times in the last 4 days my shoulder is sore. If you do what one do you have? Lift Tech is one I saw that I was considering.

This is what I put on my lift. It was very easy to adapt. Hewitt2 Direct Drive

http://www.hewitt-roll-a-dock.com/lifts07/winch_motors.html

You can get a key or remote.

[Indyxc]

Tdog

The lift looks great! Interesting that you had to get the longer canopy legs. I was ok with the standard legs, but I have a feeling it is because the illusion x tower is a lot shorter than your tower. If you don't mind me asking how much are the longer legs? In the future I might get a boat with a taller tower like an axis a20.

As far as the power crank, I know lakeside has a bunch of options, I'd call and ask Dave. I think it would be easiest to install a unit he sells.

Good work on the lift, sure feels good when it's all setup